Another exhuast question

    Quote from KayTwo

    I'm with you on that one @KayTwo.


    My variable Alpha is stuck in the closed position. I was looking at the 1320 downward discharge unit and asked if it would be possible to add a butterfly valve, before the silencer, to allow bypass.


    Unfortunately they came back and said. "No room."


    I was hoping a "bird beak" fitting, welded onto one of the bends may have allowed this but it appears to not be possible... Now, if it was, perhaps we get a muffled downward discharge and a straight through side discharge, all my in one?

    All the best, from UK_Paul

    I have been thinking a little more on this suject...
    I know that may be a bad thing!


    I have not seen what the Welter systems look like, under the hood area. I gess that as the final discharge point (and any baffles) are at the rear of the machine, in one form or another, then it is all pretty open and empty where the stock item goes.


    Therfore, would this allow a bypass valve to be installed at this point, or perhaps halfway allong (underneath) the SlingShot?


    Any thoughts on this one @Jeff Welter ?

    All the best, from UK_Paul

    I really have no interest in building something that is proven to have design flaws or issues. Isn’t that what everyone is complaining about the butterfly no longer works or rattles. The easiest way to quieten exhaust noise down is by putting two small of outlet. It does quiet down but it builds excessive heat when you do that. And I’m sure everyone who had that exhaust Sometime or another got into the throttle with the valve closed so what you’ve done is built a fire with no where for it to go. That little electric motor cannot withstand 1300° that’s why the screws loosened. That’s why rattled that’s why there were issues. In my opinion the only successful way to implement a valve in the exhaust system is in doing so through vacuum assist or manually connect to your throttle when you get in the gas It automatically opens whether you ask it to or not. There will still be issues and a lot of trial and error to get that right. You ever heard the phrase there are no free lunches this is a classic example of that. This is basically the balance act of Designing an exhaust system. I could give you something that was so quiet you think it was electric but it would be hard on your engine making something that is quite yet still performs is what you pay for when you buy a Welter. You’re paying for our combination of efficient muffler designs Which cancels different frequencies without sacrificing flow. And if you fill out the form on our website of what is important to you in an exhaust system I can probably match one to your needs that will last.



    Sent from my iPhone using Polaris Slingshot Info

    @Jeff Welter Thanks for the comments above. It is great to get a straight reply to the question and it is very much appeciated.


    Your answer helps me work out the line that I should now take, rather than messing around with something that won't work.


    Once again, thanks for your help, we all need people like you.

    All the best, from UK_Paul


    Jeff... Wondering if you could do something like mebsully has on his Sling... Really like the muffler on one side and the coilover on the other for balance... Thoughts?



    He's on here, but I can't remember his screen name, maybe @Sully?

    @Jeff Welter, I would like just the pipe to run up the side then curve over to the existing cans were they were placed stock, like what is pictured only just the pipe, no muffler. My issue is when I air down or get hard on the throttle I wind up with tire rub on the pipe in its stock configuration. I have the stock pipe so close to the bodywork I have had to put a heat shield between them.


    LC

    Well I bit the bullet and purchased the 1320 rear side exhaust kit and installed it this past Saturday. It took more time removing the side panel and pot belly than the actual installation itself. Everything fit as advertised. Did it with no helpers proving it is a true do it yourself kit. I left the removable baffle in the rear cone in as delivered. Sound is good and noise level is constant throughout the rev and loading range. The cone in the back stands out visually (bit gaudy for my taste) so I will probably replace it with a right angle pipe exiting the drivers side at the rear. 1320 uses 3" tri-clover ferrules between the muffler and first pipe and at the end to attach the cone. These are available at Brewers Hardware for $7.00 Weld a right angle 2-1/2" elbow with a 14" strait pipe and finish off with a shorty tip. Anyone else install the 1320 (1/4 mile) system?

    Really the only thing I noticed is the springs that hold the flat pipe and the exit pipe are inadequate and undersized. No blame to 1320, one size fits all...I have gotten used to the slight increase in DB's and have noticed it has cured some of the L-drive and belt noises. Magic. Haven't had a chance to check out ground clearance change yet. New Smyrna Raceway and Daytona are kinda booked now and would not return my calls for a high speed drafting test. Guess the speed bumps at Wynn Dixie will have to do. The best thing so far is getting the poop tube out the back instead of dumping in front of the RHS fire wall. I have not seen or noticed (felt) any performance change, EGT, Cyl. head, and MAP temps are the same. Hg seems to be the same during idle and highway speed driving conditions. Will advise as miles increase.