Questions After First Start of my Hahn Stage 2 Turbo Kit

    Quote from Tripod

    Try a flexible magnetic pickup tool...



    I tried one, but I can't get a good view down inside the bell-housing and the magnet tool is too springy to hold a curve so I can't be sure. I may have to just wait until my Daughter comes home and tells me where the USB endoscope camera is. I'd feel alot better if I just knew where the bolt is.

    After my Daughter used the USB endoscope camera to look inside the bell-housing and didn't see anything a couple of weeks ago, I repeated the process today and didn't see anything either. Even though I still haven't found part of the plastic tab or the bolt, I went ahead and started my engine. Fortunately, there were no loud bangs or other unwanted noises.
    I admit I am still a little concerned about the AFR as it still seems a little high. When I started the motor today, the AFR was around 15.8-16.0, so I guess I still need to check a few more things.
    Then, I can finish gathering the tools I've spread all over the carport the last few months and I can reinstall my wheels for a shakedown cruise before I recheck all of the various fasteners for tightness. Then I can reinstall the body side pieces I removed and actually try using my Slingshot!

    Thanks for the encouraging words. Now that I'm retired, I seem to get far less done much more slowly than when I was actively employed! Thinking about getting a part time job just to force me to a better schedule, but not really looking forward to being back on someone else's schedule.
    I'll just keep researching until I think I know enough to get things straightened out.

    Quote from rabtech

    One of the worst sounds is when you hear that metallic clack of a bolt dropped hitting something on the engine or frame and NOT hearing it hit the floor of the shop. Sometimes i wish i could just turn my Slingshot upside down and shake it till it falls back out. :D

    I agree 100%. I really wanted to find the darned bolt, but haven't. I'm reasonably sure it didn't fall into the bell-housing based on sticking the USB camera down in there on a piece of wire so I could rotate the camera to different areas, but it did alarm me when my Wife found the ferrule for the tank (the bolt had been thru the ferrule to protect the plastic tank) right above the bell-housing hole.
    Anybody have a way of holding the Slingshot so it can be rotated a full 360 degrees?

    Quote from rabtech

    One of the worst sounds is when you hear that metallic clack of a bolt dropped hitting something on the engine or frame and NOT hearing it hit the floor of the shop. Sometimes i wish i could just turn my Slingshot upside down and shake it till it falls back out. :D

    So that's what Dave and Jeff are helping you out with?

    Nobody gets outta here ALIVE

    Quote from BKL

    After my Daughter used the USB endoscope camera to look inside the bell-housing and didn't see anything a couple of weeks ago, I repeated the process today and didn't see anything either. Even though I still haven't found part of the plastic tab or the bolt, I went ahead and started my engine. Fortunately, there were no loud bangs or other unwanted noises.
    I admit I am still a little concerned about the AFR as it still seems a little high. When I started the motor today, the AFR was around 15.8-16.0, so I guess I still need to check a few more things.
    Then, I can finish gathering the tools I've spread all over the carport the last few months and I can reinstall my wheels for a shakedown cruise before I recheck all of the various fasteners for tightness. Then I can reinstall the body side pieces I removed and actually try using my Slingshot!


    Keep a close eye on that AFR and don't get beat it until you get it to richen up. The tune that comes with that set up has caused problems for some of us. I now have a DDM Works engine, new fuel injectors, and Bob tweaked the original tune for me at SSITS. It's now running pretty good.

    Quote from Street Doc

    Keep a close eye on that AFR and don't get beat it until you get it to richen up. The tune that comes with that set up has caused problems for some of us. I now have a DDM Works engine, new fuel injectors, and Bob tweaked the original tune for me at SSITS. It's now running pretty good.

    You might try seeing if there's anyone close by that has the Hahn stage II turbo system that would be willing to swap ecus with you to see if it's something wrong with the tube (highly unlikely, but it would remove one major component from the equations)

    Nobody gets outta here ALIVE

    Quote from Street Doc

    Keep a close eye on that AFR and don't get beat it until you get it to richen up. The tune that comes with that set up has caused problems for some of us. I now have a DDM Works engine, new fuel injectors, and Bob tweaked the original tune for me at SSITS. It's now running pretty good.


    Quote from funinthesun

    You might try seeing if there's anyone close by that has the Hahn stage II turbo system that would be willing to swap ecus with you to see if it's something wrong with the tube (highly unlikely, but it would remove one major component from the equations)

    Thanks for the tips. I've actually thought about contacting Bob about possibly enriching the tune a little or even getting the Alpha flash as I've read where folks felt it was a richer tune.
    I used some small screw clamps on some of the vacuum lines, but not all of them, so I may need to add them to all connections to be safe.
    I haven't run the engine long enough to actually check each of the large air tube/sleeve connections, which is something I also need to check.
    I plan on setting my SCG-1 gauge to emphasize the AFR reading so I can at least ride it far enough to let everything heat up so I can then recheck all of the fasteners before reinstalling the right body side panels. As long as the AFR stays closer to the rich side than the lean side, I need to see how everything seems to be running to get a better grasp on how things are working. I figure I can post here to see if anyone local has done their own Hahn install. If not, I know a local shop that has installed at least one or two Hahn Slingshot systems and may need to get their help.

    Quote from BKL

    Thanks for the tips. I've actually thought about contacting Bob about possibly enriching the tune a little or even getting the Alpha flash as I've read where folks felt it was a richer tune.I used some small screw clamps on some of the vacuum lines, but not all of them, so I may need to add them to all connections to be safe.
    I haven't run the engine long enough to actually check each of the large air tube/sleeve connections, which is something I also need to check.
    I plan on setting my SCG-1 gauge to emphasize the AFR reading so I can at least ride it far enough to let everything heat up so I can then recheck all of the fasteners before reinstalling the right body side panels. As long as the AFR stays closer to the rich side than the lean side, I need to see how everything seems to be running to get a better grasp on how things are working. I figure I can post here to see if anyone local has done their own Hahn install. If not, I know a local shop that has installed at least one or two Hahn Slingshot systems and may need to get their help.

    The main things that the ECM is going to be using for fueling is the MAP sensor and engine RPM, then the IAT (intake air temp sensor) and the TPS (throttle position sensor) will be used as modifiers for the fueling. If your ECM is running closed loop at idle (which it may or may not be doing depending on when you did get your tune done), then the O2 sensor will modify the fueling to hit its target Air/fuel. If it is an open loop tune, then the ECM is just going to use the above sensors and fuel the engine based on the fuel map in the ECM without feedback from the O2 sensor. All of the supercharger kits we have shipped have had fuel injectors that are flow matched within 1% of each other for this reason, as flow rate differences between non-flow matched injectors can be significant sometimes. At idle, the 60# injectors being used on these kits have a very short pulse width (the time that they are open) and therefore if you have a set of injectors that is not flow matched on an open loop tune, we have seen some variation at idle for the air/fuel. Typically in the lower pulse widths on injectors is where you will see a bigger difference in the air/fuel ratios, as once you go full throttle and the injectors get closer to 100% duty cycle, the differences are typically not as apparent. There is a place in Arizona (AUS Injection : Racing Fuel Injectors Service Cleaning New Replacement) that we have been sending injectors from other kit manufacturers to have them tested and flow matched. @TravAZ is the one that told us about them, they have done an excellent job on the sets we have sent out to them and the service is about $100 to have them tested and flow matched, plus shipping. If you continue to see these air/fuels at idle, that might be something to consider.


    Here is a picture of the fuel injector tests showing before and after, as you can see there can be a big swing at the lower flow rates around idle with other injectors -