ARP head studs?

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  • Thinking about installing ARP head studs.


    What is the best procedure to install them?


    Just back one stock out at a time a put 1 new in? That just seems wrong to me?


    Pull all and replace at once? Again not pulling the head so don't want to deal with head gasket issues.


    What is the recommended procedure?

    John
    2017 SL LE Midnight Cherry
    :COILOVERSS::TURBOSS::MOTOROILSS::FILTERSS::COLDAIRSS::DONKEYSS:

  • The above procedure is how DDM took care of mine and I have had no issues ..


    Now I go out turn the boost up and Blow my engine because I bragged about the success ....Hope not .


    Be Safe and Have Fun .

  • I helped @lrobbi install his and did mine on my own. I think a gorilla installed lrobbi's as we almost had to get out a breaker bar to release the old head studs. However, when removing the studs out of my engine it was all done with just a socket wrench. Torque wrench for re-install of course.


    We both are running DDM superchargers with smaller pulleys and knock on wood we haven't had any issues.
    Note: We are also running large oil coolers, better coolant, and DDM coolant reroute hose kits.

    When life knocks you down, calmly get back up, smile, and very politely say, "You hit like a bitch!"

  • When Henry (Alpha) installed my turbo & ARP head bolts, they did it one at a time as well, according to the diagram @WraithSS posted above.
    It's a damn good thing I went with their recommendation to install the ARP head bolts too......they found 3 factory bolts were only snug and no where near being tightened to spec!!!! Could have been CATASTROPHIC!!!!!!

    Those who will give up essential liberty to secure a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety


    2016 Slingshot SL Vin# 8855 (born in September 2015) w/ Alpha Stage 2 Turbo @ 7.5psi

  • But since I have a stock engine no SC I would be wasting money to install these?


    RNJ12

    If you plan to stay NA forever then yes, it would be a waste. If you plan to add FI then it would be good insurance for future use.

    When life knocks you down, calmly get back up, smile, and very politely say, "You hit like a bitch!"

  • What's involved with pulling the cam cover to replace these? Do I have to drain anything, or just disconnect what's up top, undo the bolts and lift and bolts are right there?


    Putting the cover back I don't have to play with any RTV right, just the gasket and make sure it's clean?

  • The cam cover is really easy to remove and reinstall. There is no need for any RTV. The o ring gasket if still flexible can be reused. Torque the bolts down to the recommended value and hook everything back up.

    :BLUESS:
    Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do than by the ones you did do.
    ~Mark Twain~

  • What's involved with pulling the cam cover to replace these? Do I have to drain anything, or just disconnect what's up top, undo the bolts and lift and bolts are right there?


    Putting the cover back I don't have to play with any RTV right, just the gasket and make sure it's clean?

    Before taking the cover off, you'll want to make sure the contour of the cover is clean, I use compressed air to go around the covers and make sure no little rocks and grit are nudged in the space between the head and the block (especially around the VVT Solenoids and spark plug holes).


    The gasket can be reused if its still flexible.


    Removing the head bolts you will need a breaker bar, normally they don't move without a fight. For reinstalling the ARP studs, you will need a torque wrench. I STRONGLY suggest using a digital wrench that can tell you the torque being applied in real time. This way, you can tell if you are applying torque or just eating the threads (applied torque will increase on the dial if the threads are holding, if you are applying torque to the wrench and the dial's realtime torque measurement doesn't move, normally that means the bolt is stripping the threads instead of torqueing in place).


    Even better, get someone who has the tools and did this before to do it for you, takes about 1h to do properly if you know what you are doing and have good tools to work.


    BTW, totally totally useless if you are not turbo or supercharged.

    Vi Engineered Turbo (V-Mount)
    Forged LE9
    DDM Works Fuel Rail
    RRR Oil Catchcan
    UPLOK + UPGUARD
    Assault Hub / Steering wheel
    DDM Works short shifter
    PRP Shifter Boot
    Cipher Race Seats and 4 point harness
    XO Luxury Verona 20x12 Toyo R888 315/35r20, 19x9.5 Toyo R888 265/35R19
    and more...

  • On the failures I have seen (including mine), I don't think ARP Headstuds will really help prevent a failure in most cases. Unless your stock headbolts are already loose, you will most likely break a stock piston or rods before you lift the head on boosted setups.


    Owner of Slingshot #263 that has some stock parts left on it. :D

  • Thank you everyone, great info here! That's what I like to see.


    I just installed my turbo, and already bought the studs. I also have a digital torque wrench and breaker bar, so set on the tools.


    I'll give it a good cleaning before lifting the cover as well, good idea with using air. My SS only has ~1500 miles so I doubt I won't be able to reuse my gasket.