The above procedure is how DDM took care of mine and I have had no issues ..
Now I go out turn the boost up and Blow my engine because I bragged about the success ....Hope not .
Be Safe and Have Fun .
That is how I did mine, one out, one in. No issues in over 6K miles.
One out and one in and torqued is how @Slingrazor did mine as well!
Dumb question time. What improvements does this upgrade make?
RNJ12
I helped @lrobbi install his and did mine on my own. I think a gorilla installed lrobbi's as we almost had to get out a breaker bar to release the old head studs. However, when removing the studs out of my engine it was all done with just a socket wrench. Torque wrench for re-install of course.
We both are running DDM superchargers with smaller pulleys and knock on wood we haven't had any issues.
Note: We are also running large oil coolers, better coolant, and DDM coolant reroute hose kits.
Yup what everyone else has said. Remove 1 install 1. Follow that diagram. I went back after 1k miles and checked on torque spec. Some worked themselves loose about 1-2 ft lbs
Dumb question time. What improvements does this upgrade make?
RNJ12
ARP bolts are of better grade bolt and wont stretch under pressure like stock. just cheap insurance to eliminate a known issue for boosted engines.
When Henry (Alpha) installed my turbo & ARP head bolts, they did it one at a time as well, according to the diagram @WraithSS posted above.
It's a damn good thing I went with their recommendation to install the ARP head bolts too......they found 3 factory bolts were only snug and no where near being tightened to spec!!!! Could have been CATASTROPHIC!!!!!!
ARP bolts are of better grade bolt and wont stretch under pressure like stock. just cheap insurance to eliminate a known issue for boosted engines.
But since I have a stock engine no SC I would be wasting money to install these?
RNJ12
That's all we would have needed - another catastrophic failure
But since I have a stock engine no SC I would be wasting money to install these?
RNJ12
If you plan to stay NA forever then yes, it would be a waste. If you plan to add FI then it would be good insurance for future use.
What's involved with pulling the cam cover to replace these? Do I have to drain anything, or just disconnect what's up top, undo the bolts and lift and bolts are right there?
Putting the cover back I don't have to play with any RTV right, just the gasket and make sure it's clean?
The cam cover is really easy to remove and reinstall. There is no need for any RTV. The o ring gasket if still flexible can be reused. Torque the bolts down to the recommended value and hook everything back up.
What's involved with pulling the cam cover to replace these? Do I have to drain anything, or just disconnect what's up top, undo the bolts and lift and bolts are right there?
Putting the cover back I don't have to play with any RTV right, just the gasket and make sure it's clean?
Before taking the cover off, you'll want to make sure the contour of the cover is clean, I use compressed air to go around the covers and make sure no little rocks and grit are nudged in the space between the head and the block (especially around the VVT Solenoids and spark plug holes).
The gasket can be reused if its still flexible.
Removing the head bolts you will need a breaker bar, normally they don't move without a fight. For reinstalling the ARP studs, you will need a torque wrench. I STRONGLY suggest using a digital wrench that can tell you the torque being applied in real time. This way, you can tell if you are applying torque or just eating the threads (applied torque will increase on the dial if the threads are holding, if you are applying torque to the wrench and the dial's realtime torque measurement doesn't move, normally that means the bolt is stripping the threads instead of torqueing in place).
Even better, get someone who has the tools and did this before to do it for you, takes about 1h to do properly if you know what you are doing and have good tools to work.
BTW, totally totally useless if you are not turbo or supercharged.
On the failures I have seen (including mine), I don't think ARP Headstuds will really help prevent a failure in most cases. Unless your stock headbolts are already loose, you will most likely break a stock piston or rods before you lift the head on boosted setups.
Thank you everyone, great info here! That's what I like to see.
I just installed my turbo, and already bought the studs. I also have a digital torque wrench and breaker bar, so set on the tools.
I'll give it a good cleaning before lifting the cover as well, good idea with using air. My SS only has ~1500 miles so I doubt I won't be able to reuse my gasket.
