Stereo planning.....

    Where are all the audio gurus at on here??


    Like most people, I am not too impressed with the factory audio system on the SS. So, I am beginning the planning phase of my system upgrade. The first thing I want to do is to change out the head unit with this....https://www.crutchfield.com/p_…arch=mvh-av290bt&skipvs=T.


    I plan on using the Scosche Double Din kit and OEM camera harness from @slingmods.


    My question for now is what will I need to do to get the factory speakers operational so that they still sound decent for the time being? Are they being driven directly from the head unit or is there a factory amp?


    I appreciate any input on this.


    Thanks

    Semper Fi


    "Will Work for MODs!"

    Awhile back, the most common solution to the factory speakers was to replace them with some speakers from Massive Audio, but I don't believe those particular speakers are still available. The factory pods have limited depth for larger speakers, but it is possible, especially if you don't mind doing a little grinding for clearance.
    Here's a link to some threads on the old site - Search Results for Query: replacement speakers | Polaris Slingshot Forum.
    Here's the same search on this site - http://slingshotinfo.com/index…ight=replacement+speakers.
    Personally, I prefer the roll hoop pods from SSV Works. They can handle 6.5" speakers (maybe 6.75", too) and p[lace the sound right behind your head for easy hearing. These in combo with an amp, upgraded factory speakers and/or a sub-woofer are popular, too.
    Here's a link to a give-away of the Roll Hoop speakers to raise money for Hurricane relief - FREE SSV WORKS HEADREST SPEAKER PODS....

    Thanks @BKL. My pods are different than the older model slings from what I can tell. I believe the older models had 3 speakers in the pods and the new one only has 2. However, I won't be changing the pod speakers right away. I am trying to be smart (for once) and do the upgrade in stages so my better half doesn't notice how much I spend. :00008172:

    Semper Fi


    "Will Work for MODs!"

    The newer pods appear to have better speakers according to what I've read. The factory head unit isn't very powerful. The Pioneer unit is only rated at 50W Peak, so it will probably need an amp for better sound. The Pioneer does support Front and Rear out as well as a sub, so a 5 channel amp (4+1) such as the Clarion XC2510 or something more powerful would help.
    Hopefully, somebody will recommend additional amp choices.

    I wont be installing any big subs in the future so that amp might be beyond what I will need. In the end I plan on using the head rest pods and the factory pods with potentially a couple 1" tweets.

    Semper Fi


    "Will Work for MODs!"

    Quote from D.W.Slusher

    I wont be installing any big subs in the future so that amp might be beyond what I will need. In the end I plan on using the head rest pods and the factory pods with potentially a couple 1" tweets.







    Quote from BKL

    The newer pods appear to have better speakers according to what I've read. The factory head unit isn't very powerful. The Pioneer unit is only rated at 50W Peak, so it will probably need an amp for better sound. The Pioneer does support Front and Rear out as well as a sub, so a 5 channel amp (4+1) such as the Clarion XC2510 or something more powerful would help.
    Hopefully, somebody will recommend additional amp choices.


    Highly advise the speaker pod for the hoops. All the difference in the world, and with efficient speakers good sound levels with modest power. ..then upgrade your pods.


    On amps, no substitute for power. The pioneer is rated at 50, it is not clean at that power (Not rated same as amp).


    If you are handy, I have a jl audio mx 280 4 channel amp you can try. I pulled it because I thought I had a bad channel. Now pretty sure my clarion cms 5 head unit was problem....same issue with a jl 700 amp that works perfect with pioneer. Yours for free if you want to try, no guarantees if it does not work. That amp will drive hoops pods plus front well....


    If u want amp on me. Leaving for hurricane, so might take a few days to get back. Or if my garage floods the amp might take a hit.. :confused:


    Sent from my SM-G955U using Polaris Slingshot Forum mobile app

    @D.W.Slusher, just in case you don't know, that unit is $161 or $154 on Amazon. I ordered it there.

    Quote from BKL

    The newer pods appear to have better speakers according to what I've read. The factory head unit isn't very powerful. The Pioneer unit is only rated at 50W Peak, so it will probably need an amp for better sound. The Pioneer does support Front and Rear out as well as a sub, so a 5 channel amp (4+1) such as the Clarion XC2510 or something more powerful would help.
    Hopefully, somebody will recommend additional amp choices.


    Highly advise the speaker pod for the hoops. All the difference in the world, and with efficient speakers good sound levels with modest power. ..then upgrade your pods.


    On amps, no substitute for power. The pioneer is rated at 50, it is not clean at that power (Not rated same as amp).


    If you are handy, I have a jl audio mx 280 4 channel amp you can try. I pulled it because I thought I had a bad channel. Now pretty sure my clarion cms 5 head unit was problem....same issue with a jl 700 amp that works perfect with pioneer. Yours for free if you want to try, no guarantees if it does not work. That amp will drive hoops pods plus front well....


    If u want amp on me. Leaving for hurricane, so might take a few days to get back. Or if my garage floods the amp might take a hit.. :confused:


    Sent from my SM-G955U using Polaris Slingshot Forum mobile app[/quote]
    Pm me, hate spell check....


    Sent from my SM-G955U using Polaris Slingshot Forum mobile app


    Pm me, hate spell check....


    Sent from my SM-G955U using Polaris Slingshot Forum mobile app[/quote]


    I appreciate that man. I am willing to give it a shot...if it survives. Hope everything goes well for you with the storm.



    Sent from my iPhone using Polaris Slingshot Forum mobile app

    Semper Fi


    "Will Work for MODs!"

    Since the Polaris ratings don't specify RMS, it's safe to assume the rating is Peak output meaning the real amp power in RMS is probably somewhere in the range of 2 x 20W RMS to 2 x 30W RMS. When I took Electronics in High School in the late 1960s, the typical rule of thumb for estimating the RMS power output was around 70% of the peak output. Unfortunately, audio manufacturers play games all the times trying to inflate a relatively low 20 - 30W RMS amp to a claimed 500 Peak Music Power rating or some other equally ridiculously high power rating. Most reputable audio manufacturers will simply provide the RMS rating. As far as I'm concerned, I'd question the reputation of any audio manufacturer who advertises anything other than RMS output. I occasionally buy such products IF they otherwise meet my needs. Just remember that the recognized standard is RMS output.

    I'm in the middle of my 2nd/3rd upgrade to my '17 sling audio system...


    • I upgraded the 6.5 speakers in the pods to Focal 6.5" speakers. They are used extensively on MC upgraded stereo systems. Much better but still not producing the volume I wanted. I don't need crazy loud but I want to hear it nicely without distortion. There was horrible distortion (see next item) which may have not been the stock speakers.
    • Wired into the stock radio and added a Rockford Fosgate marine amp not cheap but highly recommended. I did not want to mount an amp under the seat as I did not want to deal with any water problems. I mounted the AMP under the dash. It gets very hot under there and the AMP has built in fans to manage heat. If you put a non fan driven amp under the dash it will overheat and distort.
      • Anyway... the amp has a clipping level detection/setting where you play a 1khz tone over the stereo (I copied onto a USB Drive from the provided CD) and you disconnect the speakers and turn the stereo up till the red light comes on on the amp to let you know that you are clipping on the input coming into the amp from your stereo. The stock radio has a range of 0 to 30, well at 18 the Total Harmonic Distortion is enough to have the red light come on on the amp. So I now know that 17 is my maximum volume from the stock stereo that is within the detection limits of the AMP
      • The 2nd adjustment is to adjust the output of the AMP to either 1%THD or 5%THD, (the output LED will be either blue or red) I adjusted for 1%THD. MUCH MUCH better but still getting distortion from the stock head unit. I use the automatic volume control set to low. It gives me enough volume increase to overcome wind noise and maintain a nice volume setting as I speed up from a stop. As I'm considering the situation as I'm typing this out, the added distortion might actually be coming from the automatic volume control being turned on. (I'll see about testing that and provide an update)
    • I ordered the hoop pods and will be installing them in the next couple days with the same Focal speakers. (I'll return here and update this post with results). I'm going to tie into the LINE OUT (rear speakers) of the stock radio for the Hoop pods and test the harmonic distortion of the line level output of the stock radio. My gut feeling is that the THD will be gone coming out of the stock radio via line level output. But again I'll be back here to update.
    • I'll be mounting a Pioneer NEX 8200 into the Slingshot Double DIN marine cover they are both on order.

    I have pictures and notes for exactly how to tie into the stock wiring to add an AMP and use the existing wiring, I'll post that as soon as I can pull it together into a step by step how to. Even though I ordered the Pioneer I'm still going to test and document using the line level output of the stock radio because I'm curious if the harmonic distortion will actually disappear using the line level output for the rear channel. If so, then you can run the line level output from the stock radio and not have a fader for the hoops or just use the line level out to drive the stock / upgraded pods and bypass the distortion from the speaker level output.


    I actually find the stock stereo very adequate with the exception of not being very friendly with it's ability to communicate with my phone for phone calls, I understand you can add a headset, but come on. Polaris should have included a microphone in the dash and treated it like a car in that respect.


    If you look at the wiring diagram you can even tie in the audio from a stand alone GPS unit into the stock radio system. If you wanted to run a 2nd camera for the front end that could be accomplished also with the stock unit by splitting the incoming video of the backup camera on a switch, then putting the reverse detection wire on a switch as well to turn on for a rear view/front view camera on demand.


    I'll be back with more information and updates as I complete my installation.

    John
    2017 SL LE Midnight Cherry
    :COILOVERSS::TURBOSS::MOTOROILSS::FILTERSS::COLDAIRSS::DONKEYSS: