I assume the alternator connection is only on when the engine is running?I have a Fuzeblock I got thru Amazon and am thinking about either connecting it to the SlingMods battery Jump Start Ports I just installed or just connecting it to the alternator.
It's always hot. The terminal is on the bottom of the alternator with a red boot covering it.
Thanks. I just assumed it wouldn't be always hot.
Thanks. I just assumed it wouldn't be always hot.
I wasn't sure until you asked. I had to run out to the garage and put a meter on it. 
I want a battery disconnect switch that doesn't look like one...I'm not into the bright red looking switch. I found this and I can wire it to one of our factory dash switches...
Amazon.com: Intellitec Battery Disconnect Relay-Prevents Dead Batteries: Automotive
From what I've read it needs a momontary switch to activate it...which they make and I already have.... And it fits right in our dash.
That looks like a good option with the difference of not being marine rated. You would want to find a dry spot to mount it. I would also consider a semi-hidden location for the switch if security is a secondary purpose. Let us know what you come up with @Bigdog, I'm interested in this.
Anyone running more than one fuse block because of accessories?
Not yet, but that was one reason to spend $35 instead of $145 (vendor price).
Anyone running more than one fuse block because of accessories?
I have 2 of the Tricled blocks and a marine rated regular fuse block running off an Optima yellow top battery. All fuse blocks are fused from the battery. Lights and low amp draw things to the Tricled boxes. 2 amps, a powered sub, and a horn running off the regular fuse block. (Don't have to worry about being "hot" or not since the amps and subs are self switching. The horn will only work if the key is switched on) Never have had a problem. Have also been told by a knowledgeable mechanic who has also done several high end audio installs that you should have no problem. You only run into problems when you out amp the battery. Hard to do with one of the Optima batteries. Those things are "beasts"!!! Besides, most of my mods are low amp draw like leds and such. Even have my heated seats hooked up through them.
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I have 2 of the Tricled blocks and a marine rated regular fuse block running off an Optima yellow top battery. All fuse blocks are fused from the battery. Lights and low amp draw things to the Tricled boxes. 2 amps, a powered sub, and a horn running off the regular fuse block. (Don't have to worry about being "hot" or not since the amps and subs are self switching. The horn will only work if the key is switched on) Never have had a problem. Have also been told by a knowledgeable mechanic who has also done several high end audio installs that you should have no problem. You only run into problems when you out amp the battery. Hard to do with one of the Optima batteries. Those things are "beasts"!!! Besides, most of my mods are low amp draw like leds and such. Even have my heated seats hooked up through them.
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I'm curious why you chose a marine rated regular fuse block for the high-amp stuff instead of a Tricled block. Is there a reason for this?
Display MoreI used this Blue Sea Systems marine-rated 6 circuit fuse block for $35:
It does not allow for both constant and ignition hot, but I had determined that I don't want any constant hot accessories. I kept leaving them on and killing the battery. I wired it from the glove box charging port and grounded it to the frame right above it. Sorry about the pic - my phone has been abused.
I used the exact same box in the same location as you. But as already posted, it's best to power it with a heavy gauge wire directly from the battery. If I remember correctly, I ran a wire from the battery to a relay and used the hot wire from the glove box to energize the relay only when the key is on.
What relay did you use and where is it located?
I used a water proof automotive relay. I tucked it up underneath the ledge behind the ecu. Kind of under the windshield to the left of the steering wheel, but in the engine compartment not the cockpit. I soldered all the connections and use marine shrink tube too. I hope I described the location good enough.
I'm curious why you chose a marine rated regular fuse block for the high-amp stuff instead of a Tricled block. Is there a reason for this?
The Tricled boxes can only handle 10 amps per leg of the box. Stereo amps are at least double that. I think the total Tricled box draw is 40 amps.
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I have leds installed by light the night , I also have 2 subs /amp / 6 - 6.5" speakers & double din installed at a profession stereo place and only have the factory fuse block no aftermarket one.
I used the exact same box in the same location as you. But as already posted, it's best to power it with a heavy gauge wire directly from the battery. If I remember correctly, I ran a wire from the battery to a relay and used the hot wire from the glove box to energize the relay only when the key is on.
Ok, give us a wiring diagram of this and relay info...number or whatever..
I'm not all artsy-fartsy, but here's a drawing of the lay out. Basically, I use the extra fuse box to run various led lights, and my led headlights which are own separate switches.
