@BKL hey I wasn’t trying to attack you at all sorry if I came off that way tsometimes it’s easier when broken down. I’m in the process of switching to standalone I will be using a 3.5 inch lcd display that will Have all types of info.i like the scg1 it’s a nice gauge and boost controller when you modify everything for the controller to work properly but I like the little shift light right in the center. But you can connect everything how the intructions tell you and run with the boost controller end of it off the gauge allows you to shut it off .for the money could you get a nicer gauge to do what you want just afr and boost sure but once you complete a bunch of other more mods for the controller end of it to work then it works pretty good .
Innovate SCG-1 Gauge Install
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Although I bought the SCG-1 because it was both a Boost gauge and controller and worked with Innovate's data loggers, I'm no longer so sure I'll keep it since the Koso X-2 is waterproof and I haven't heard of anyone successfully getting the controller portion to work reliably with the MEFI tune. I remember somebody posting about trying to work things out with Bob, but I never heard if anything came from that effort.
When I first read your post, I admit I took it to be a little snippy, but then I realized I hadn't carefully looked at the SCG-1 install manual for several months and I went and looked at it again and realized the MAP sensor did indeed have a simple vacuum line connection and things fell into place. I just read the term MAP Sensor and all I could see in my mind's eye was some fancy mods to the intake manifold to mount a second MAP sensor, so your post actually helped me see the light . I bought my SCG-1 last year and got my Hahn kit in November 2016, but just never got around to starting the install until this summer. After several delays, I'm finally starting to get near to finishing the turbo install once I get my turbo properly reclocked and then can install the SCG-1 or Koso X-2, if I decide to just EBay the SCG-1 and data logger. -
Got the SCG-1 installed finally. Now I just have to get it configured properly.
Is there any info on how to do this out there?
I only found to set the RPM to 0.5. I also set shift RPM to 6500.
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Good Luck in getting it set up. Right now, I just plan on getting the Boost and AFR displays functional.
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Got the SCG-1 installed finally. Now I just have to get it configured properly.
Is there any info on how to do this out there?
I only found to set the RPM to 0.5. I also set shift RPM to 6500.
You can set your shift lower, by the time you react to the light coming on you will hit cutoff which is lowered to 6200 on bob's tune if I am not mistaken.
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As posted in my Build thread (BKL's Build, Post # 5), I've now put around 90 miles on my turbo'd Slingshot and have started trying to use the PL-1 Data Logger with my SCG-1 Boost/AFR gauge. I haven't yet hooked up my SCG-1 to collect engine rpm info and was wondering where people have connected the SCG-1 to get access to engine rpm? I tend to sometimes over-think thins and would like to use the easiest connection possible.
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OK. I'll go look for it. Thanks.
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Where would be the best place to connect the red 12v
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Where would be the best place to connect the red 12v
I chose the easiest way to supply power to my Innovate SCG-1 and used a plug-in adapter for the glove box power outlet. I am using it strictly to monitor AFR and Boost and did not use a relay.
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Thanks, I didn't think about that and it's already fused.
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Thanks, I didn't think about that and it's already fused.
Most power outlet adapters also allow you to place a fuse inside them for more focused protection.
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I went out and checked how I actually got power for my Innovate products. It turns out I used the glove box power outlet and a power adapter to power my Innovate PL-1 Data logger and tapped the new headlight power line installed to fix the recall for the headlight circuit overheating problem back in 2016. See attached picture.
On newer models that have the recall fix incorporated into the wiring harness, unbolt the fuse block so you can locate the appropriate wire for the outer headlights and tap that wire with a fused lead run to the gauge. I run LED bulbs and there is plenty of extra power left to safely power the gauge, but if you're really paranoid, you can use the tapped wire to activate a relay that in turn directs power via dedicated connection from the battery or a fuse block to the gauge.
