Insulating the Infotainment Cubby Area From Engine Compartment Heat

I've been waiting to install my Hahn Turbo kit until my swing-arm gets repaired. I also wanted to install my Radio and Boost gauge into the cubby area where the factory radio normally installs, but I've been concerned about the heat coming from the engine compartment into the uninsulated cubby area. Awhile back, I designed a radio mounting plate for my round marine radio and also equipped with a little storage hole to hold glasses, candy bar, etc, during a ride. I'm now redesigning the mounting plate, eliminating the storage hole so I can install my boost gauge. My radio says it should be protected from heat sources, so I watched the Cycle Springs install video on YouTube for their no-longer-on-the market heatwall
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and decided to make my own. The last couple of weeks, I've had my Slingshot torn apart and have basically spent an hour or two per day trying to figure out how to make the heatwall and several more hours per day trying to make a hopefully easy-to-understand how-to.
I have attached 4 PDF files, one covering the overall process of disassembling the dash and cutting a piece of sheet metal to serve as the heatwall, with the other 3 PDF files being printable templates allowing the recreation of a full-size template to transfer the dimensions onto a piece of sheet metal.

My Thanks to @WI_Hedgehog for converting my chicken scratch drawings into clean PDF files that make it a lot easier to create the full-size template. He also created a CAD file (DXF) of the template which I can email to those interested as I couldn't get it uploaded to the site. Just PM me with your email if you want a copy of the DXF file.

Materials list - A printed version of the InsulatingTheCubbyArea.pdf how-to. Follow the directions for printing and reassembling the 3 template sheets in the how-to.
An 8" x 24" sheet of thin aluminum or sheet metal and some black paint.
Aluminum tape.
Some self-stick insulation. I got mine on EBay, about 6-8 mm thick. 6 sf should be more than enough.
Electrical tape.
Cable ties

Tools list -
Typical Slingshot tools (T40 & T25 drivers, 7 & 8 mm Hex keys and a 10 mm socket/ratchet are the main tools that come to mind).
Sabersaw w/a metal-cutting blade or metal cutting snips.
Utility knife.
General purpose shears for cutting aluminum tape and the self-stick insulation.

I hope this helps somebody.

UPDATE - I found a possible small air leak at the center section of the Heatwall. See the picture below for suggested fixes. I didn't actually feel air flowing thru. I was just disturbed how my had fit over the foam molding to touch the top edge of the Heatwall.

I've also been wondering if the insulation over the bigger opening in the cubby area where the wires come into the cubby area might get damaged over time by the flexing wires. A possible solution here would be to use a small piece of sheet metal to cover most of the bigger opening, secured by some aluminum tape and with a grommet or otherwise padded opening for the wiring to pas thru into the cubby area and then covered with self-stick insulation. The piece of sheet metal only needs to be large enough to overlap the sides on the bigger opening to provide sufficient strength and support so that the insulation covering the bigger opening doesn't get damaged by the wiring.

If I decide these changes are really necessary, i'll incorporate them into the how-to. Until such changes are made, if ever, keep these ideas in mind and apply if you feel they are necessary.

Incorporated into preceding post.

A forum member over on TDS said he wanted MORE heat, not less.
I suggested searching EBay for "cab heater", or he might try a cheaper alternative as described in the attached PDF file. Some folks installed vents in the outer footwell wall to draw in cooler air. Installing similar vents in the transmission tunnel might draw the warmed air from the transmission tunnel, especially once you've insulated the cubby area.
It may not bring in a lot of warm air, but the cost is relatively cheap.