Factory Sway Bar Upgrade

  • @Ruptured Duck as always thank you....... @FunCycle did you remove it or was it was the wear visible without removal also you do have a 2015 unit right?

    I replaced it with the DDM sway bar, brackets and the links. Yes I have the 2015, mostly all of the paint was gone and starting to wear into the bar. It is not visable unless you remove the brackets and the bushings but it also has 40,000 miles on it and about 8 trips to the Smokies. No easy rides up there.

  • I replaced it with the DDM sway bar, brackets and the links. Yes I have the 2015, mostly all of the paint was gone and starting to wear into the bar. It is not visable unless you remove the brackets and the bushings but it also has 40,000 miles on it and about 8 trips to the Smokies. No easy rides up there.

    40k is a good number of miles but thank you for confirming the assumption about the plastic bushing and what miles can do.
    I have been doing a little on line research regarding billet brackets and 1 1/4" bushings. There are a number out there around the $80 price point that look good and should work.

    Proud supporter of S.O.G.

    (Slingshot Owners Group)

    :thumbsup:

    Owner/operator: MeanSling LLC :thumbsup:

  • @sideseatdriver here is a description of strut brace from Rist Rocket. RRR Steel Stut Bar

    the one I want to build will not replace the current crossbar but will be additional bracing with preload adjustment if that makes sense.
    Really wish there was more room under the hood. An X brace would look cool and really do the job.

    Proud supporter of S.O.G.

    (Slingshot Owners Group)

    :thumbsup:

    Owner/operator: MeanSling LLC :thumbsup:

  • So I located a stronger bushing retainer for my installation. I did have to center drill, and tap (1/4" 28) the Zerk fitting hole but was easy to do. The hole location was already noted in the factory Jeep bracket I used.
    The Energy Suspension bracket was solid and will work fine. I just wanted something with a little more strength and coverage of the wider poly bushings.


    Mopar part number 52060014AA can be used and can be purchased cheap (will need to drill and tap for grease fitting). Quadratec, a Jeep accessories retailer has them for $7.50 each. Their part number is 56016.0114


    Here are all three brackets side by side for comparison.


    I used VHT Wrinkle Plus spray paint on the Jeep brackets to help dress them up.




    Proud supporter of S.O.G.

    (Slingshot Owners Group)

    :thumbsup:

    Owner/operator: MeanSling LLC :thumbsup:

  • ahhhhh nice...that looks to be much stronger!





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  • @Ruptured Duck I'm really looking forward on this one!

    thanks... At this point the cost breaks down as follows if all parts were purchased (excluding bit and tap and paint). The intent will be for someone to reuse their OE sway bar and drill the new hole. This will be described soon.


    1. Energy Suspension brackets with bushings = $15 to $24
    2. JK rear SB retainer bracket = $7.50 to $9.00


    Low end = $30.00
    High end = $42.00


    Benefits over stock:
    1. More surface area on sway bar to help reduce flex.
    2. Greasable fitting for smooth operation and prolonged bushing life.

    Proud supporter of S.O.G.

    (Slingshot Owners Group)

    :thumbsup:

    Owner/operator: MeanSling LLC :thumbsup:

  • Installed the brackets and bushings. Very good fit and tight. No grease just yet. Not until I have drilled the new holes in the sway bar. No need to get grease everywhere when I take the bushings back off.


    Next things to do.
    (1) backing plates. not really needed but I want to add one so the bushing is making contact fully along the back. The factory mounting plate is narrower than the poly bushings. An offset billet bracket would be nice (aftermarket hint, hint)
    (2) drill the new holes in the sway bar.

    Proud supporter of S.O.G.

    (Slingshot Owners Group)

    :thumbsup:

    Owner/operator: MeanSling LLC :thumbsup:

  • Installed the brackets and bushings. Very good fit and tight. No grease just yet. Not until I have drilled the new holes in the sway bar. No need to get grease everywhere when I take the bushings back off.


    Next things to do.
    (1) backing plates. not really needed but I want to add one so the bushing is making contact fully along the back. The factory mounting plate is narrower than the poly bushings. An offset billet bracket would be nice (aftermarket hint, hint)
    (2) drill the new holes in the sway bar.

    Damn good job as always RD!

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  • I thought the chassis needed new holes to accomodate the Suspension brackets. Drilling holes in the sway bar still doesn't register sure you guys will be patient with me. I'll eventually find out where the sway bar had holes to start with other than at the wheel bushings.