What was today's Sling project-Mods , goodies.....?

Attention Vendors. Please email robert@rabtech.com any instruction manuals you may have for your products. They will be added to the FILEBASE tab for members to access.
  • Installed a new rear wheel e brake billet cover in fast black,

    And $99 is a steal.






    changed over to my double bubbles for summer, added a thin coat of lithium grease to my cam nut, polished and added my cam nut cover from mytoy . Nice job by the way. Installed my new CAI air box from injen, under warranty. Thanks guys. Washed my air filter and outerwears cover. You can see the dirt on it. It also keeps water out of the filter during the rain.



    And ordered my aluminum rear end protector from SlingLow .

  • A lot of the parts you order like the tops/windshield, etc are made to order. Due to size and cost, they don't keep a lot of them on the shelf. I had the same challenge with Twist and my top and first windshield.

    At F4 Customs windshields we have all our shields in stock

  • Thanks Don, that's good info. You may want to update your website then :) Back when I was shopping for a new shield, I looked at your +9 and it said 5 weeks because of manufacturing.

    I will we started selling so many plus 7 and 9,s we decided to cut some ahead

  • I hope you torqued it down correctly... ask me how I know.....read my torque wrenching thread...



    Looks nice....how hard was that to install?

    Really? You say in the first quote, "I hope you torqued it down correctly... ask me how I know.....read my torque wrenching thread..." like being the authority on the install, then turn around and say, "Looks nice....how hard was that to install?"

    I've never blocked anyone on here. Keep it up, you might be the very first.....

    For anyone that thinks I'm picking on this person, be sure to read both entries.... Both quotes were the same and originally from John Price on post #23,362

  • Really? You say in the first quote, "I hope you torqued it down correctly... ask me how I know.....read my torque wrenching thread..." like being the authority on the install, then turn around and say, "Looks nice....how hard was that to install?"

    I've never blocked anyone on here. Keep it up, you might be the very first.....

    For anyone that thinks I'm picking on this person, be sure to read both entries.... Both quotes were the same and originally from John Price on post #23,362

    So not defending Bigdog, just check my history of poking that bear... But... The torque wrenching thread he's referring to is about that damn van of his that he also can't keep the plastics clean and uv protected... Lord help that man...


    I don't think he's replaced his valve cover ... But he is probably looking at removing, polishing to match his other engine goodies, and reinstalling...


    Why do I keep up with him and his mods? The black box... ninja-squared


    And he's really like that weird cousin... Still family... wacky-squared

  • Really? You say in the first quote, "I hope you torqued it down correctly... ask me how I know.....read my torque wrenching thread..." like being the authority on the install, then turn around and say, "Looks nice....how hard was that to install?"

    I've never blocked anyone on here. Keep it up, you might be the very first.....

    For anyone that thinks I'm picking on this person, be sure to read both entries.... Both quotes were the same and originally from John Price on post #23,362

    I said what I said because there is a big difference between inch pounds and foot pounds and one could easily get confused and either torque the bolts too tight or not tight enough. It’s two different torque wrenches. Having just finished my van intake and snapping two bolts off in the block....makes me an authority...to offer a word of caution on how important it is to follow the tightening specs and sequence.


    That’s not being judgmental.


    And if you read the specs....it’s a different torque for the bolts and the nuts...again things could get confusing...


    The sequence I had to do on my van intake was going around the bolts like you do with lug nuts staggered back and forth. Plus the sequence had to be done 3 times increasing the torque with each pass. That was for the lower intake gasket. The upper intake gasket was two staggered passes with increasing torque.


    I don’t know what the procedure is for the SS. Hence my question about if it was tightened correctly. Just cranking them down without a torque wrench could lead to a disaster.


    If anyone knows the tightening procedure I’d like to know what it is....



  • I’ve got a few days experience playing with things mechanical. But, only a year on the Sling. 20+ years wrenching on fighters and big cargo birds.



    Changing out the valve cover is really pretty easy, as it turns out.


    1. Disconnect the wire harness from the coil packs and cam sensors.


    2. Disconnect the two hoses on the left front of the cover.


    3. Cut the three tie wraps securing the wire harnesses and hoses.


    3(a). Remove the coil cover, if installed. There are 4 bolts with spacers holding it in place.


    4. Remove the fore and aft lift points (13mm, I think).


    5. Using a 10mm socket remove the bolts that secure the coil packs and cam sensors.


    6. Tape and number the coil packs. Remove them by polling straight up.


    7. Remove the cam sensors (one gray and one black). Remember which goes into which hole. These might seem problematic. But, use something to grip them lightly and twist lightly while pulling straight up and they will come out with a nice pop.


    8. Using that 10mm socket loosen the 11 bolts holding the valve cover in place.


    9. Tap the cover gently and remove. Watch for oil drips.


    10. Have yourself a drink now that the inner workings are exposed and relax.


    Now the fun begins.


    11. Slide the new bolts and washers/spacers (11?each). into the mounting holes of the new valve cover.


    12. Put the neoprene seals into the groves of the new valve cover. There are two seals, one for the perimeter and one for the spark plug holes/cam sensor hole. Start at the grove and press the seals into position. They will stay in place if you have installed them properly.


    13. Torque the valve cover from the center bolts out. About 10 NM or 15 inch pounds. Not much torque is required at all. You are just seating a neoprene rubber seal. It is NOT a traditional gasket.


    14. Put the coils back in place followed by the cam sensors. Make sure that the coils are put back on the matching spark plug and that the cam sensors are in the correct holes. Secure with the 10mm bolts.


    15. Secure everything you removed.


    Sit back and admire your work. Hope this helps. The thing that surprised me was how easy the cover came off and how little effort or force is necessary for a leak free seal.

    John
    '15 Nuc 'em 'til they glow orange
    '15 Ram 2500
    '16 Denali 289 RK
    '17 Mazda 3 HB


    :ORANGESS:


    SOG supporter

  • Interesting that you marked the coil packs as well, I did, just to be on the safe side. However, I saw Bob troubleshooting in MV and he swapped the packs between two, didn't change anything on the ride, so I'm guessing that it doesn't matter if you swap them or not.


    Me, I'd rather be safe than sorry on things like that. If you look closely at my setup, you'll see numbers on them from sharpie :)