What was today's Sling project-Mods , goodies.....?

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  • I changed the caster on mine in 2015 and it has handled beautifully ever since. It's not quite as tight as a newer model any more, but neither am I. Unfortunately there are very few alignment guys that will adjust caster and camber. They only look at toe.

  • Got the DDMWorks sway bar ( Painter )installed last Thursday. Also changed oil and filter, greased U joint, serviced angle drive, and installed Fumoto oil drain valve for next time. Yesterday ThomaSS came over in the afternoon about 12:30 or so, and we worked on swapping out my muffler. Ran into problems early on, snapped a bolt. Made a couple of runs (Metric tap and die set, then for the 10mm x 1.5 bolt) and wrapped up up much later than I had expected about 8pm. As far as I know, everything ended up perfect..... should be good to go now!

  • Here's a link to TDS with info on modding your caster. Read thru the thread before attempting to change anything since it also states Polaris may have made some undocumented changes during production. https://www.slingshotforums.co…s/otters-second-mod.4881/. IIRC, Polaris originally made the caster non-adjustable in response to a Polaris executive managing to spin out during a test drive. It's been a long time since I read the thread and the story might be mentioned in the thread.

  • Finally got my Canadian headlights installed. Had to relocate the transformer/ballast for the HIDs and replace the headlight covers. Just need to do some cleanup on the wiring.


    f96ac03091c7506af0f053cd99984713.jpg


    Next up...add on upper eyebrow lights, hood latch supports, fillers below the headlights and new carpeting. Hope to have it all done before Homecoming.





    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

    John
    '15 Nuc 'em 'til they glow orange
    '15 Ram 2500
    '16 Denali 289 RK
    '17 Mazda 3 HB


    :ORANGESS:


    SOG supporter

  • [quote='Boomer','https://slingshotinfo.com/index.php?thread/22-what-was-today-s-sling-project-mods-goodies/&postID=271379#post271379']

    Well got wycked hitch install at Maggie. Can’t wait to go to gas stations! Might be really funslingshotinfo.com/wcf/index.php?attachment/96551/

    Light works with brake

    [/quote]

    I love that!



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

    John
    '15 Nuc 'em 'til they glow orange
    '15 Ram 2500
    '16 Denali 289 RK
    '17 Mazda 3 HB


    :ORANGESS:


    SOG supporter

  • Good things do indeed come in small packages!

    I got my ECU back with it's new ZZP stage 1.0 tune!

    Installing was literally a 5-minute task. Two bolts, 3 locking plugs, and I was ready to go. While I was hooking up the ECU, I couldn't keep from humming the Scarecrow's song from Wizard of Oz!

    I must say that after I sent the ECU off for its tune, I had a bit of buyer's remorse. I'd seen other members here with turbos and superchargers, drooled over wokka 's build among others, had I made the right choice? Would the tune make a noticeable difference? I took Ruby for a little 60 mile jog out through Huntsville and over the upper Pig Trail along War Eagle creek to find out.


    Disposing of worries and doubts took about 5 minutes! WOW! Throttle response, especially above 2500 rpm was dramatically improved. Passing power is tremendous, along the twisty Ozark roads I had several "Oh $hit!" moments as my slingshot surprised me over and over again!


    They say 'know your limits, and drive within them", with the tune, I had to discover those limitations all over again. Roads that were old friends became a new and exciting adventure again! Down shift to 3rd at 40 mph and 80 is just a throttle blip away. Upshift to 4th at 80 and the engine snarls to let you know there is lots more where that came from! The first farm truck I passed, I went from 40 to over 90 so fast I couldn't believe it. The new Cooper Zeon rs3-s on the back did a great job transmitting the power to the road. I felt large and in charge!


    Am I gonna get a turbo someday? I kind of doubt it now! I have all the power I need for country roads and highway driving. Can't really imagine needing more get up and go than this, but I can easily imagine getting myself into trouble with more!


    Kyle D 's tune and exhaust package make my SLR what it should have been from the factory - a top of the line NA Slingshot! If you get a chance for a ride along in a sling with the ZZP package, take it! For about 1/3 to 1/4 the price of a turbo or supercharger, you get plenty of performance!

    The smarter you get, the funnier I am.

  • Cost?


  • Nicely done! However, in a few months, or maybe a year, you will become complacent, and will want MOAR POWA, and then you can upgrade to a turbo :)


    Cost?


    Well, to add some sound and roar to your engine, you need this : https://zzperformance.com/coll…tune-for-the-na-slingshot


    To get the HP and thrills, you need this : https://zzperformance.com/coll…gshot/products/zzp-badges

  • War Hoop

    Tune was $350, sent my ECU to CMB motorsports on a Monday, got it back one week later. Postage out was about $10, return shipping was included.

    Check with Kyle D , he sometimes has ECU cores so you can order directly from him in Michigan. If you are out west, the California firm may be faster. ZZP website has all the details, be sure you have an order number from ZZP before you send it, include this with your return shipping address to avoid delays.

    ZZP tune is a hell of a bargain as far as I'm concerned!

    The smarter you get, the funnier I am.

  • Dave@DDMWorks


    I bought an aluminum tank and I started to polish it....is this number on the front of the tank an ID number? Should I copy it down for future reference? I’m going to try to polish it out. I’m perplexed as to why it’s on the very front of the tank instead of the rear where it doesn’t matter.



    It really was scuffed up for paint or powder coat. This is my first pass with 220.



    Factory scuff in yellow area and my first pass in red area.


    Here is the polished tank.

    I think it’s going to look ok once it’s installed.


    This is the unpolished bottom for reference.




    I kept the numbers intact


  • War Hoop

    Tune was $350, sent my ECU to CMB motorsports on a Monday, got it back one week later. Postage out was about $10, return shipping was included.

    Check with Kyle D , he sometimes has ECU cores so you can order directly from him in Michigan. If you are out west, the California firm may be faster. ZZP website has all the details, be sure you have an order number from ZZP before you send it, include this with your return shipping address to avoid delays.

    ZZP tune is a hell of a bargain as far as I'm concerned!

    Do you send all 3 of these things? Or which one?


  • Bigdog

    Those are the three plugs that attach to the ECU.

    The ECU is bolted right underneath them - I labelled the plugs before detaching them, turns out this wasn't needed - each one is a somewhat different shape and they only connect one way. Idiot-proof... no doubt they saw me coming! 😁


    Actual ECU looks like this:

    About 6-inches square, 1 inch thick, weighs about a pound. All the electronics are sealed inside, fins in the case are radiators for heat, doesn't have a fan like most computers.


    The plugs have locking levers, you have to push down in the center to release them, I had to use a screwdriver to press down, my hands aren't very strong. You press down, swing the lever toward the fender, and it levers the plug free. Once the plugs are disconnected, two 10mm bolts and the ECU slides right out. Reinstallation, just reverse the process.


    The check engine light will come on and blink codes at you after you reinstall, but the ECU & engine reacquaint themselves after 25 miles or so and the next time you start it up, the check engine light will reset itself and turn off. This is why I took a nice long ride (60 miles); when I went out again later that day, the light was out.


    Hope that helps,

    -- Doc

    The smarter you get, the funnier I am.

    Edited once, last by Doc&Ruby ().

  • Thanks, I never paid any attention to that entire area because I didn’t want to screw anything up. But I thought the black things were boxes with the brains....I would have never guessed it was in the aluminum thing....

  • Nice write up Doc&Ruby ! My question for you is what do you think of the return to idle when coming to a stop? The first report on this tune brought that up and the owner felt he had to goose the throttle when coming to a stop to prevent stall. Did you have any issue with this?


    To anyone doing this mod, if you want to ensure that you don't fry your ECU when connecting the plugs, DISCONNECT THE BATTERY BEFORE REMOVING OR REPLACING ECU PLUGS. Honestly, I've done this a number of times without disconnecting the battery, and if you are careful not to misalign the plugs it won't cook but I have heard stories.

    Remember folks - this isn't a rehearsal, it's The Show!8)

  • SlingLow

    Eeeep! Didn't disconnect the battery when I took out & reinstalled the ECU. Everything was off, and so far as I know without power when I did this. I've done quite a bit of computer maintenance over the years and I did observe static electricity discipline though.


    I didn't notice any problems with low idle or stalling yesterday. Ruby typically idles at about 800 rpm, but the loop I took yesterday had virtually no stops. I did have a couple backfires when letting off the gas or downshifting, but like the engine code, that seemed to work itself out pretty well after the extended run.


    I will be doing some crosstown driving today and maybe a speed run on the Oklahoma turnpike. I want to see how it does at consistent highway speeds and how it pulls from 65 to 90 or so. I'll post results here & let you know about the idling question.

    The smarter you get, the funnier I am.