What was today's Sling project-Mods , goodies.....?

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  • YT battery was one of first things i installed, although when not cruising I use the battery tender, but light turns green within 5 minutes of hooking it up, 2.5 years and zero issues, I do have 400 watt amp and lots of lights.

    My experience may not be typical but it’s been a great battery.....

    Why buy one when you can have two at twice the price..... :evil:

  • I have a yellow top Optima in my Sling for 3 years. Had them in other vehicles over the years with not one speck of a problem. Well worth the money in my opinion. Most of our mechanics swear by them also!!!


    Sent from my SM-N950U using Polaris Slingshot Forum mobile app


    YT battery was one of first things i installed, although when not cruising I use the battery tender, but light turns green within 5 minutes of hooking it up, 2.5 years and zero issues, I do have 400 watt amp and lots of lights.

    My experience may not be typical but it’s been a great battery.....

    Not sure if it is the way that they are installed on the Slingshots that come to us, or what is causing all the failures we have seen with them. I know that everyone seems to love them, but we have just had no luck with the ones here :(. I know a couple of them have died because they slid over and were touching the Welter rear exhaust, but the others ones just seem to lose a charge and won't hold the charge even after being ran for an hour or placed on the trickle charger for a day.


    Any special care that I need to be telling these customers about with the yellowtops?


    Thanks, as we really not not enjoy replacing batteries, installing turbos is way more fun :)

    Dave

  • While I haven't had mine installed all that long... I splurged and bought the OPTIMA 400 charger and leave it attached all the time when home. https://www.optimabatteries.com/en-us/battery-charger


    Battery always holds a reserve of about 30-45 mins pushing 1000+ watts from the radio in accessory mode. Charger does a really good job cycling ~> I recommend it HIGHLY!!

  • The duracell AGM that dangerdarrell mentioned has me intrigued and is a fraction of the cost of the yellowtop. Granted, it's a smaller battery and if you are pushing the type of audio system that Erica has, then it may not be a good fit. As soon as someone gets their new battery box finished, I'll likely swap and try the duracell.

  • Yours must be the only one that hasn't died while it was here ;)


    I think I am just a little sensitive about the yellow tops because the Slingshot we finished before Maggie Valley had one installed and it died. To get that battery out was major surgery because of the way it was installed and all the wires going to it for Amps, lights, etc.


    Do you run a trickle charger on yours?

    I have never had it on a charger. It has even survived many trips to see you!

  • While I haven't had mine installed all that long... I splurged and bought the OPTIMA 400 charger and leave it attached all the time when home. https://www.optimabatteries.com/en-us/battery-charger


    Battery always holds a reserve of about 30-45 mins pushing 1000+ watts from the radio in accessory mode. Charger does a really good job cycling ~> I recommend it HIGHLY!!

    Very cool, probably pick up one of those and just put it on any of the yellowtops that come in to make sure.


    Meanwhile we are going with the smallest lightest thing we can put back there. The supercharged Mazda 2 track car that Zach drives has a battery like this one in it. The battery is super small and only weighs about 8#, starts the car perfect everytime, but not the cheapest option -


    https://shop.antigravitybatter…ries/automotive/ag-51-rs/

  • I’ll never waste my money on another optima battery.... if I thought they were so wonderful I’d have them in my 6 vehicles right now....


    Just like buying Calvin Klein’s..... paying for the over priced, over hyped name....all show no go...


    It’s like not buying 93 octane then complaining because it doesn’t run right...and I run it in all 6 vehicles since my lesson learned in 1992 that cost me hundreds of dollars and tons of aggravation....

  • I have also had a yellow top for about two years, but I did melt the bottom out of the first one

    Mine didn’t make it to the end of its 3 year warranty before it needed jumped all the time. And it wasn’t sitting around I used that vehicle on a regular basis.


    In fact they sent me a replacement and when I sold one of my vans I made sure that battery (the new one) was in it...just so I could get rid of it.

  • I love my set. Nice and easy on the long trips, 1 min to adjust then hit the twisties

    I may not use them to their fullest but like having options. The SS being what it is the adjustments seem to be quite easy to get to. My biggest hope is even though they are "sport shocks" I hope they smooth things out on the highway. I am hoping to have the best of both worlds - smooth caddy style on the freeways then a quick stop for a "click up" before the mountain roads.

  • Dave,


    I've had a yellow top since 2016 running an upgraded alternator and wiring since 2018 because my 2000+ watt sound system was dimming my headlights at full bass hit. Had the Optima when I was at your shop with Lewis. If your customers cannot keep a charge on a deep cycle battery like a yellow top then they have a grounding issue somewhere. If they have a multi-meter they can find which circuit has the drain on it very easily. Here is a decent write up on it:

    https://www.wikihow.com/Find-a-Parasitic-Battery-Drain

    When life knocks you down, calmly get back up, smile, and very politely say, "You hit like a bitch!"

  • I may not use them to their fullest but like having options. The SS being what it is the adjustments seem to be quite easy to get to. My biggest hope is even though they are "sport shocks" I hope they smooth things out on the highway. I am hoping to have the best of both worlds - smooth caddy style on the freeways then a quick stop for a "click up" before the mountain roads.

    Not sure if they get to caddy level smoothness but I usually hear the bumps and not feel them. Took them on both trips to Maggie 1500miles round trip. Forgot to switch them on the way back this time around and first chance I got I made sure to adjust them and was glad that I did.

  • Not sure if they get to caddy level smoothness but I usually hear the bumps and not feel them. Took them on both trips to Maggie 1500miles round trip. Forgot to switch them on the way back this time around and first chance I got I made sure to adjust them and was glad that I did.

    In what way would you say the ride changed the most?

  • In what way would you say the ride changed the most?

    I haven't experimented a lot but I have used the recommended settings from DDM for mountain driving, normal use and Full Soft.


    Normal Use settings - compared to the oem shocks I found it was a smoother ride in general but I did notice a large reduction in body lean when taking any turns


    Full Soft - Great for longer trips, more of a floating feel. Doesn't get rid of all the bumps but my back doesn't hurt after 12hrs of riding. You do feel more body roll on corners but typically on longer trips its all highway so very few turns.


    Mountain driving - Big difference in stiffness. I typically keep these settings while in Maggie and found as long as the road is relatively smooth no need to switch back but man you feel it if you get onto a rough road. In the twisties I find with the significantly reduce body roll I feel more confident in the corners and I know if I wanted to I could push it more.

  • Spot on what I was / am looking for - great review - THANK YOU!


    Did you keep the original height on your SS?