What was today's Sling project-Mods , goodies.....?

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  • That is the way the Assault adapter mounts, you have done nothing wrong. The one DDM has and the one MyToy shows have different dimensions around the base of the hub.

    Must say... the gap is getting to my OCD side... Knowing that it is there, I cannot stop looking down at it and cringing...

  • I like that steering wheel.

    yes it was a sharp wheel but unfortunately for anybody liking it , while there are still some available at amazon dealers, believe it or not we can no longer get red or green stitching new from Assault, They have discontinued that wheel in red stitching , The new ones are now only available in gray white or black stitching , That sucks, but remember Slingshot products are a small small niche, while it sold a few for slingshots , there isn't enough interest in utv markets for that color any longer , so they no longer producing them , compared to the slingshot market , the UTV market is huge yet it is still considered a niche market .. I loved that wheel.

  • wokka

    I think I'm going to follow along with you on lights & hinges. Your description of evening rides with wildlife matches up pretty well with our environment here in the Ozarks. I'm adding a light bar, but I need better light for every day use as well. Interested in how you find the experience after you get 'em installed and running.


    Got a good ride in this evening with them. They are very bright and I'm quite happy with them. The only drawback, and I think it's just a SS thing, is the flipper for the high-beams. The highs don't really do anything except light up the tops of the trees along the road, doesn't seem to help with distance at all.


    The LED bulbs in our car seems to do the same thing, can't really tell that the highs are doing much, but the lows sure are brighter and go further.

  • ok... did i do something wrong here or is this normal? I installed the assault hub adapter and a new NRG steering wheel.


    Is the machining of the assault hub off? I feel like this should fit flush.


    Here is what it looks like and i feel like it is wrong

    I'm using the NRG Short Hub Adapter and quick release and a God Speed Now steering wheel and it isn't fitting like that. Something must be stopping it from seating all the way. I agree it does look odd.

  • Got a good ride in this evening with them. They are very bright and I'm quite happy with them. The only drawback, and I think it's just a SS thing, is the flipper for the high-beams. The highs don't really do anything except light up the tops of the trees along the road, doesn't seem to help with distance at all.


    The LED bulbs in our car seems to do the same thing, can't really tell that the highs are doing much, but the lows sure are brighter and go further.

    I very rarely use the high beams....

  • Got a good ride in this evening with them. They are very bright and I'm quite happy with them. The only drawback, and I think it's just a SS thing, is the flipper for the high-beams. The highs don't really do anything except light up the tops of the trees along the road, doesn't seem to help with distance at all.


    The LED bulbs in our car seems to do the same thing, can't really tell that the highs are doing much, but the lows sure are brighter and go further.

    That's what I found too. The headlights have a shutter in them that raises and lowers between what used to be high and low beam instead of a two filament bulb. It can be really anoying going through dips.

  • Not sure but i think because the Slingshot sits so low to the ground that high beams dont seem to bother anyone anyway.

    I have left my high beams on many times just to see if people will flash me to dim them. Only once and it was another Sling.

    I'm running the LED from (Light Your Sling)...

  • Another shout out to Kyle keylay101 for his awesome LED's. I went with them because of the lifetime warranty. After talking about this here, I went and checked the prices on the bigger vendors we have (SSO, Slingmods and Allthingsslingshot) and his prices are almost half of the others, plus lifetime warranty.


    With as bright as mine are, I don't see the competition being that much better. I'm very pleased with my purchase.

  • Got a good ride in this evening with them. They are very bright and I'm quite happy with them. The only drawback, and I think it's just a SS thing, is the flipper for the high-beams. The highs don't really do anything except light up the tops of the trees along the road, doesn't seem to help with distance at all.


    The LED bulbs in our car seems to do the same thing, can't really tell that the highs are doing much, but the lows sure are brighter and go further.

    Even after replacing the SSO CH units with the CH units from SlingMods (which I do feel provide more light than the old SSO CH units I had, even with the SSO LED bulbs I've had for several years now), I still wish I had more down-the-road illumination. The main times I notice the extra headlight output is driving down roads with tress ahnging over the road surface. The light seems to get trapped by the trees for more down-the-road illumination.

  • Yeah, the Slingmods (TricLED) lights look OEM, and they probably are. I think someone could come up with a better design and abandon the way that Polaris designed the lights. As long as you stick with LED, shouldn't have any amperage issues (purely a guess)

  • Yeah, the Slingmods (TricLED) lights look OEM, and they probably are. I think someone could come up with a better design and abandon the way that Polaris designed the lights. As long as you stick with LED, shouldn't have any amperage issues (purely a guess)

    The amperage problem was due to the fact that Polaris' original, pre-recall design, had 2x65W + 2x55W for a total of 240 Watts on a 20 Amp circuit, meaning it was near its max capacity even ignoring the power needed to operate the center headlight shutters. Of course, using a 30A breaker to "protect" a 20A circuit wasn't such a good choice either. Th recall basically switched the outer headlights to a separate circuit from the center headlights, reducing current draw on the center headlight circuit.

    Since most LED bulbs seem to be around 25-36W each, even if you have the Canadian Headlights and are running all 6 bulbs, you should still be within the circuit capacities.

  • The amperage problem was due to the fact that Polaris' original, pre-recall design, had 2x65W + 2x55W for a total of 240 Watts on a 20 Amp circuit, meaning it was near its max capacity even ignoring the power needed to operate the center headlight shutters. Of course, using a 30A breaker to "protect" a 20A circuit wasn't such a good choice either. Th recall basically switched the outer headlights to a separate circuit from the center headlights, reducing current draw on the center headlight circuit.

    Since most LED bulbs seem to be around 25-36W each, even if you have the Canadian Headlights and are running all 6 bulbs, you should still be within the circuit capacities.

    on my SS the fuse was not blowing the relay was cycling on and off because of the load. It was so hot you could not touch it