AEM Gauge help PLEASE!!

You will need to get your exhaust to a shop and get the metal bung that came with it soldered to the top of the exhaust exit right after the turbo.

Which wire on the Slingshot do I connect to for RPM?

Courtesy of iNewton on his thread on the other forum. I went to the ECM and tapped the wire there. It was pretty easy and worked good for me.

RPM Tap

This one is tricky (thanks to @RABTECH for the how-to).
In order to read RPM, we must tap a signal wire from a coil. We can tap it at the coil, or at the ECU. I prefer the ECU because less wire length means less signal noise and it make the job look better. In order to tap the wire, you will need to unplug the J2 connector from the ECU (the center one), and remove the cover. Be careful its very fragile. Then you will need to cut a good portion of the tape holding the wires together and the tie-wrap using an exacto. BE VERY CAREFUL TO NOT CUT ANY WIRES DOING THIS. Its best to use a new blade that is very sharp so that you don't have to push hard on the blade and cut something else. Take your time.

The wire we are looking for is PIN1, its the white wire with a brown line on it:

To tap the wire, you have 2 options:

1)You can strip some part of the wire off, then roll the Green wire around the exposed wire and solder the wires together, then tape it up so that its sealed
2)Use a wire tap (wire tap - Google Search)

Both options will work, I personally used a wire tap with a plug so that it's easier to remove if I need to replace the gauge in the future:

Once you have tapped the wire, use friction tape to bundle the wires back together (don't forget the thin tie-wrap), replace the cover and reconnect the plug to the ECU:

Yep. And setup the gauge to 0.5 for the RPM multiplier.

I have not changed the settings from what you set them at. Do I need to make any adjustments?

Probably not.

Didn't realize who started the thread.. That is my gauge your installing.

That gauge is like new and never run hard or even uphill. And only used on sunday one way to church. ...

Seriously it should be set perfect as far as the RPM. Just leave white faceplate in the gauge and that will be how it's setup to display.....

I believe it holds the settings without power. Actually I know it does. So you should be good.

Nothing like soldering next to a fuel line. I think it turned out pretty good.

Looks like a pro did it. How is it working for ya?

I think they welded the bung in while the plug was in it. The plug was loose and unscrews easily until the end where a refuses to turn now. I'm now looking for a bigger cheater bar.

The bigger cheater bar was a big mistake. My Allen head socket snapped off inside the plug. I've tried drilling it out and tapping on it to pull the Allen head portion out nothing works. Any ideas?

I'm afraid I already know the answer, but does a Hahn side exit exhaust need to come off to have the second bug welded? Can you tell I'm not a welder?

Show pics of the issue? Not sure what is the issue...

I'm confused also.... What is the allen head for?

When they welded in the bung bushing I assume they had this threaded plug with an Allen head top inside to protect the bung threads from the weld splatter. When I went to remove the plug to replace it with the O2 sensor the plug was loose and turned freely for several turns and then locked up so I assumed they somehow had weld from the inside get on the plug threads. The plug would not tighten or loosen so that's when I got the cheater bar out and that caused my Allen head socket to snap off inside the plug. After snapping three drill bits I decided to try the cut off wheel. It may be time to use a hole saw to cut the entire bung out and start over.

Drill it out with a 1/2" reversed drill bit. Then step up to even a larger size. Once you get it thin enough in the center I bet it will come out....

Quote from rabtech

Drill it out with a 1/2" reversed drill bit. Then step up to even a larger size. Once you get it thin enough in the center I bet it will come out....

I would take the exhaust off before I did anything else. It is to close to the compressor wheel to leave it in place while your working on it. Your going to get something in the turbo....

Is there a special material that the tip of the drill bit needs to be coated with to drill into this hard metal?
The bright side is if I'm going to have to take the exhaust off I might as well put a header on while it is in pieces.

Doesn't the Hahn turbo system come with Hahn's exhaust manifold for which the ECU reflash is tuned?

I have an Alpha turbo so the exhaust manifold is an upgrade.