Stretched / WIDENING your rear wheel

Do you have any pics of the outside?
How's it ride?
Any vibrations?
How did it balance?
Has your sex life changed?
Oh ! Did I say something wrong?

Quote from lrobbi

LMAO right now. No sex life did not change but the Misses loves it "wider" Hope she does not see this.... Okay - ride did not change- the new tire grips much better. No vibatration detected - no vibration she said ... Oops did it again. And yes it balanced out with no issues. I have only driven it once since this... Came back and sent the ECM off to Bob in California. So I have not driven since... I have a backup ECM to put in it if I need to but it's not really programmed for the SS yet. But yes I will double check to insure it's not giving me any vibration.

Appreciate your humor ! All in good taste but I'm sure a lot of us are interested in your feedback.
Thanks bro!

Ride is great on mine, but I must admit. In the colder weather that rear tire gets loose much easier. Looking forward to warm weather test it out!!

I know we are all trying to find the perfect solution for our single rear wheel traction handicap. And I realize increasing the tire/road contact area helps. But I can't stop thinking about how our rear tires are only making outer edge contact with the road when leaning hard into a turn. I know if we add stiffness to the front suspension it helps but it is still an issue. So what I'm wondering is as we increase the width of our rear tires would it be a good idea to pick a tire with a rounded edge... What I mean is a tire that more resembles what they are running on the rear of a "wide tire" bike than a "car" tire. A tire of this type might also allow us to go a little wider as well due to additional swingarm clearance. Of course we would have to at some point start considering relocating the rear shock to over the belt rather than next to it. Any thoughts on the subject or has someone tried it and I just missed it ?

@Slunglow I just wonder if you would really get any more tread on the pavement.
The tire is not "lifting that much I think to pull enough tread off the road.

To me the main issues are (1) stock and most replacements are summer tired so best in warm weather. And (2) the back end is so damn light.

Quote from SlingRider

@Slunglow I just wonder if you would really get any more tread on the pavement.
The tire is not "lifting that much I think to pull enough tread off the road.

To me the main issues are (1) stock and most replacements are summer tired so best in warm weather. And (2) the back end is so damn light.

In a "hard" turn the tire is tilting more than you may think. I remember seeing a lot of light between the track surface and the rear tire, and the inside tire for that matter, of quite a few participants Slings at the F.I.R.M. this past fall. Somewhere in "a past life" I remember seeing a video someone posted that clearly illustrated just how extreme this issue is. Maybe we could get @Tripod to dig up the video out of his Fort Knox style vault of captured images. How 'bout it Tri ?

Quote from Slunglow

In a "hard" turn the tire is tilting more than you may think. I remember seeing a lot of light between the track surface and the rear tire, and the inside tire for that matter, of quite a few participants Slings at the F.I.R.M. this past fall. Somewhere in "a past life" I remember seeing a video someone posted that clearly illustrated just how extreme this issue is. Maybe we could get @Tripod to dig up the video out of his Fort Knox style vault of captured images. How 'bout it Tri ?

are you telling me that all that work I did to have a fat ass still
Means I only get a little
Cheek on the road.

Quote from Slunglow

In a "hard" turn the tire is tilting more than you may think. I remember seeing a lot of light between the track surface and the rear tire, and the inside tire for that matter, of quite a few participants Slings at the F.I.R.M. this past fall. Somewhere in "a past life" I remember seeing a video someone posted that clearly illustrated just how extreme this issue is. Maybe we could get @Tripod to dig up the video out of his Fort Knox style vault of captured images. How 'bout it Tri ?

Here's a link to the FIRM day thread - it's 72 pages long & quite a few videos. Have fun! Maybe you'll recognize the video you're looking for...

http://www.slingshotforums.com…presented-by-starke.7739/

LMAO I love the analogy, now if I can just get that image out of my head before I meet you at SSITS Lol
But seriously IMHO this is a real issue ... If the left front dips then right rear lifts it's that simple.
And with the side wall of our tires getting ever so smaller the issue is worsening because we have no sidewall give.

That's why you need a larger sidewall in the back. I agree that while turning the rear can get more on edge. Just need to firm up the front end and loosen up the rear and then give it a good slap!

@Andy Hatch here is all the good information you were looking for!!

Drop the rear tire pressure. Its too high if you follow the specs from polaris. i run my rear 23-24 psi on the track.

Looks great @lrobbi

I would like to add that this type of wheel widening used to be very popular in the motorcycle markets. Back years ago when we did not have wider wheels available, we had to make them ourselves. We'd widen stock wheels using these same techniques. So long as the prep machine work is performed in a precision manner, and the welding processes performed properly (as this is certainly not a novice welding or machining job)...the results will be as dead-on as a one-piece wheel, with little if any runout. We swore by them, safe and smooth at speeds in the 180-200 MPH range. This is also how most beadlock wheels are made, with the outer bead ring/bead concentrically welded to the main wheel body.

Tricky work, but done right, it's awesome! Here's an example of what we used to call a "double weld", with wider wheel lips welded onto both sides of the stock wheel. I built (machined/welded) this wheel about 20 years ago, still have it on an old Kawasaki GPz:

Quote from Bill from Hahn RaceCraft

I would like to add that this type of wheel widening used to be very popular in the motorcycle markets. Back years ago when we did not have wider wheels available, we had to make them ourselves. We'd widen stock wheels using these same techniques. So long as the prep machine work is performed in a precision manner, and the welding processes performed properly (as this is certainly not a novice welding or machining job)...the results will be as dead-on as a one-piece wheel, with little if any runout. We swore by them, safe and smooth at speeds in the 180-200 MPH range. This is also how most beadlock wheels are made, with the outer bead ring/bead concentrically welded to the main wheel body.

Tricky work, but done right, it's awesome! Here's an example of what we used to call a "double weld", with wider wheel lips welded onto both sides of the stock wheel. I built (machined/welded) this wheel about 20 years ago, still have it on an old Kawasaki GPz:

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Mighty fine looking work there, Bill.