The Infamous Check Engine Light- Slingshot Down

    Well I started out this morning for my ride and the Check Engine Light came on. Not sure what it is so not sure I should go on an all day ride today. Thoughts from my sling family.

    Bummer Dude!!! If you can cycle the mode button, I think it should give you the code or codes that's causing the light. Then someone with more knowledge than I have can interpret what they mean. It may be something easily fixed, and still let you enjoy a day of driving!!!

    Those who will give up essential liberty to secure a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety


    2016 Slingshot SL Vin# 8855 (born in September 2015) w/ Alpha Stage 2 Turbo @ 7.5psi

    Quote from SlingRider

    Well I started out this morning for my ride and the Check Engine Light came on. Not sure what it is so not sure I should go on an all day ride today. Thoughts from my sling family.

    check to see if you have a code. (push little black button that reads total mileage, trip mileage, fuel economy, etc.) A code number should come up. It may be pretty much nothing. I went about 3500 miles with the CEL about a year ago, with the dealer's blessing while they were trying to figure out what it was.

    Quote from SlingRider

    Well I started out this morning for my ride and the Check Engine Light came on. Not sure what it is so not sure I should go on an all day ride today. Thoughts from my sling family.

    Press the Mode button until the speedo's display cycles around to "CHK ENGINE" then press and hold the Mode button. If you have a code it will display in the odometer space. If you have more than one code a number will appear in the Time space. Press the Mode button to cycle through your codes. Press and hold the Mode button to leave the Check Engine mode. Error Codes are listed in the Service Manual. If you don't have one your dealer should certainly be able to translate it for you. Good luck!

    Arghhhh!!


    Just this morning my ChkEngine light came on, showing code #65551 and below that "5", though I was unable to scroll through any other apparent codes..


    I also have a bizarre sound eminating from the rear end, that sounds like a stick or strap or something of the sort that is stuck in the belt pully and slapping the plastic panels as it rotates. It is not a metallic sound, but it is tied to speed, just as the bearings were (those have already been replaced once).. My Slingshot was in the shop again a couple of weeks ago for our 2nd set of replacement brake sensors, and severe squeeling at the front pully. The shop replaced the switches, then adjusted and greased the belt, which made that particular noise go away, but then this new "slapping" noise appeared just a few days later..


    At this point, I'm about to set this f'ing thing on fire and push it off a cliff! We have a vacation in 2 weeks that has been postponed time and time again, because every time we would get ready to go somewhere, our Slingshot would end up back in the shop!! :00000003:


    -Tim

    Tim, no need to panic. You have a VERY typical issue with your slingshot. Many of us have had it happen to us (myself included 3 times). First off, the code is from a knock sensor problem. The five shows that it is caused by an open circuit. All of those that I know of that caused this issue is from the same reason - the connector simply came disconnected from the sensor. When you bring it back to the dealer, they more than likely will reattach it and send you on your way. Some times it comes back on in a few hundred or thousand miles. Polaris finally authorized my dealer to replace the sensor and it's been fine now for over 10,000 miles. Just as a side note to anyone who is thinking this - NO, a General Motors sensor will not work on this engine (without modifications). Polaris decided to use a different connector on their sensor, so when the dealer says the parts are on backorder, a trip to your local GM dealer or parts store won't help you without splicing the harness.

    Nobody gets outta here ALIVE

    Yep. It's either not making a good connection in the plug or it is actually unplugged. It's down in front of the starter. And it is a pain the butt to reach from the top. I would recommend getting to it from the underside if you have a lift. It's not easy to get to from either direction.... I'll include a picture. You may just need to unplug it and add a bit of dielectric grease to it. Then plug it back in.



    I located the sensor plug and pressed it in as hard as I could, in the hopes that it may have come loose and simply needed a better connection to be made, and then I unplugged the ECU and disconnected the battery, but that didn't seem to resolve the issue. :(


    I did seem to locate and resolve the issue in the rear end.. That was a bundle of wires in a wrap, thay had dropped down and was being beaten against the U-Joint directly in front of the Angle Drive.. Apparently a service tech somewhere/sometime had cut the nylon wire ties that had that bundle secure.. ?(

    Quote from rabtech

    If you can unplug it and plug it back in then start it and shut it off about 5 to 10 times I bet it clears.

    @rabtech - Unfortunately I could only barely touch the connector enough to press it in harder.. I tried to remove it, but was unable to do that without removing any engine components.. If I could REMOVE the starter, it would be easy to get to from the bottom, but I'm unsure if it would be safe to do so.. It does appear that the starter is only held in place with 2 very easly accessible bolts, but if there is a 3rd I'm screwed because it would be on the top and would require the removal of the intake maniffold, which I would rather not have to dig down too.. lol


    Suggestions..?

    Not that many yet, maybe a 1/2 dozen...


    Is it possible to easily REMOVE the starter to gain good access..? My issue is mobility, due to having all of the metal in my back, and I'm unable to squeeze my hands into the space required to be able to unplug/replug the connector.