What are the benefits of one over the other and where is it better to use?
WRAP OR HYDRO DIP
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Wrap = less expensive and can be peeled off; harder to apply and best on non-complicated items
Hydrodip = use where you cant wrap or you don't want to worry about the design peeling off; less design options
Wrap items like the nose cone, camera housing cap (base model), and rear plastic mud guard.
Dip items like the belt guard, gas cap, roll hoops, and hood vents.
If you aren't worried about price, I would take off all the pieces together and have them dipped and then cleared over. It lasts a long time and if all pieces are done together (same patch) they should match really good.
Wrap = better pricing and better for people that want to change their look later
Dip= more expensive, more durable, but you aren't going back to the stock look -
What are the benefits of one over the other and where is it better to use?
Just my opinion but Hydro Dipping or Paint is the only way to go.
Much better finish - polishes to a better gloss and last a lot longer.
Especially around sharp edges, the only big problem with hydro dipping is when you have multiple angles in a small area, here is a
picture of my rear humps under the roll hoops look close and you can see where we had issues. If it was a less complicate pattern it would have been easier to work with ...What parts are you trying to finish?
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What part are you concerned about?
Most anything on the SS that you would refinish is ABS (I think) no problem if prepped correctly
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Dipping takes the same procedures as paint. Part must be prepped, primed and painted with a base coat. Then part is dipped into the film. The PVA film evaporates leaving the pigment behind through proper technique and washing. Then part is clear coated with automotive clear.
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Dipping takes the same procedures as paint. Part must be prepped, primed and painted with a base coat. Then part is dipped into the film. The PVA film evaporates leaving the pigment behind through proper technique and washing. Then part is clear coated with automotive clear.
And that is why this guy is going to be the ONLY one I trust to fix my Corbin factory mis-matched painted $3333.33 doors!!
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there is another option plastic dip ..i have wrap and with the heat in florida the end sections are a constant fight.. and if you try to match paint you can be out of luck.. plastic dip or spray dip you can doit at home and if the color dont match you can paint it over and peel later if you dont like it.
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Wrap = less expensive and can be peeled off; harder to apply and best on non-complicated items
Hydrodip = use where you cant wrap or you don't want to worry about the design peeling off; less design options
Wrap = better pricing and better for people that want to change their look later
Dip= more expensive, more durable, but you aren't going back to the stock lookGood summary for us neophytes, thanks!
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@hrca0434sc, I'm going the peel coat (rustoleum's alternative to plasti dip) route... Will be sure to post pictures as I progress in the "What did you do..." thread. Main reason is to try it before committing to actual paint...
I already know it will probably look better in pictures than in person! Lol... But, when will I ever see you guys?!? The pictures will be just fine...
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I plasti-dipped mine a little while back. Have over 1100 miles with it and no issues so far. Colorado isn't exactly known for it's well kept roads so there are a lot of rock chips and sand blowing all over the SS and nothing has peeled or chipped. I think as long as it's prepped right and sprayed right you will be just fine to go this route.
