DDMWorks Built Engine for Rabtech

Quote from StickerDick

no.... which one was it? You have so many version it confuses's me?

This is the sticker that I would also like to have in a small size...

Sorry to have a sticker conversation in the middle of an engine swap but its just easy to catch @StickerDick anyway you can.... He is a busy man....

Stickerdick you have that file already and the medium and large size stickers look great. I just need some of them in a small size. Can you whip up a visual so I can see how they look in that small size and give you the go ahead...

Just text me the picture... I will need 50 of them or maybe 100.... And 100 of the other small black text stickers I already have had made before. (the one that we put in the goodie bags in Maggie Valley.)

Quote from rabtech

Quote from rabtech

I am going to leave the turbo on and the intake manifold in place.....I don't see where either is going to be close to the frame...and they will be much easier to take off once it is out and i can spin it around and get to everything....

You will probably want to remove the intake manifold, makes it a lot easier to unhook the power going to the starter and also unplug the oil pressure and crank sensor from the harness.

There are 2 - M8 bolt holes in the front of the block that work well for hooking up to, there is also a couple M8 bolt holes on the passenger side above the exhaust manifold on the cylinder head you can use for lift points.

Hope that helps,
Dave

Sounds good... I did notice the plugs under the intake....and my hands are kinda big....

Quote from rabtech

And it sucks to have to drain the antifreeze... Is there a magic way to fill this system. I haven't read the service manual yet ,, I figured someone would have the perfect way to fill it and bleed the air out...

Im all ears...

I've been using this type of setup for years. Easy filling and can stay hooked up until warmed up and the thermostat opens to release any air pockets. Simple, but effective.

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She is bleeding at the neck now.

Do yourself a favor and remove the intake. You need to unplug the starter battery wire from there, the oil pressure sensor, knock sensor, alternator and starter switch, and its all on one cable. Its close to impossible to access this unless you have very small hands.

You will need the little brackets to pull the engine out.

The brackets center the weight perfect and its going to be much easier to put the new one back in (taking it out is the easy part, aligning everything to put it back is another matter)

Check image below:

makes sure you take off transmission cover plate if you have one installed. It doesn't clear the flywheel and will get stuck.

I used another lift under the transmission to help lift the engine over the mounts without putting all the weight on the transmission input shaft.

Once the engine is out, nothing support the end of the transmission and it will stress the mounts, so I strongly suggest supporting it before pulling the engine out.

Quote from iNewton

makes sure you take off transmission cover plate if you have one installed. It doesn't clear the flywheel and will get stuck.

I used another lift under the transmission to help lift the engine over the mounts without putting all the weight on the transmission input shaft.

Once the engine is out, nothing support the end of the transmission and it will stress the mounts, so I strongly suggest supporting it before pulling the engine out.

Yes to this, we typically use a second jack under the transmission which allows you to adjust it up and down a little bit to take the load off of it and also when installing the engine back into the Slingshot you can adjust the angle a little bit to make it easier to line everything back up.

Oh yeah, and in order to empty the coolant from the engine completly, there is a drain plug under the water pump to empty most of the block.

Sounds good. I am done for a few hours. I have the intake off and the muffler off. I also have the radiator off and I have it down to the putting a jack under the transmission and undoing a few more wires.
My fat boy syndrome is kicking in and my knee is hurting and my right foot is hurting. So I have to wrap a frozen bottle of water to the bottom of foot for a while.

I am having to take work related calls all thru the process so it takes a while for me to get stuff done. I have a few hours in it so far. Probably 3 or 4 to this point. For people that are wanting to do this engine swap and are curious. Nothing has been hard to do up to this point. And no bolts have been hard to get to or break loose. It's really straight forward. And most bolts and nuts can be run back in where they came from.

Quote from Joker256

New mirror mod?

Amazon.com: (Pair) Objects in Mirror are Losing Decal BLACK Etched Glass Funny Sticker (Come With Free stickerbomb hand decal) stickerciti Brand: Automotive

Another Slingshot in my mirror! (HINT: It's not rabtech.)

You won't need a mirror to find me. Maybe some good binoculars....

"Let's seeeeeee, take the thing-a-bob off, remove the what's it, move the whirly cue, and then I...WTF is THAT doing here!!!!!"

Ok Mr. Rabtech I am officially 3 weeks out from where you are on this swap right now. I sure hope the core you dropped off was a good one cuz that is what DDM is using for my build.

Thanks for letting me hang on your shirt tails. You area good friend and a great teacher..But one of these days I am going to pass you on the highway. Most likely when you stop to use a restroom but it will still count in my book as long as you are in my mirror...

Nope, just fill it thru the top hose and reconnect. Then keep an eye on the tank level and keep it topped off as it gets rid of the air on it's own. It us to take me about a month to get all the air out of my 67 Corvette, checking the tank every day. Oh, I drove it every day also back in the day. I had it for 26 years.

I'm memorizing all the steps as I go. Even all the wrench sizes. I am going to go back and do a step by step with items that need to be removed circled and notes documented on each picture.

I told Dave that their are many people that want to make this next step and upgrade the engine so they can dial up the boost a little and not worry about blowing the engine.

You have step 1 which is the open free flowing exhaust, cold air intake, and a ecu tune..
Then step 2 which is a turbo and tune... This is typically the stopping spot.

And now there will be step 3. Step 3 is beefing up the engine and turning up the boost a little more. But it's kinda the unspoken "how to". I found out the process of building an engine correctly is not as easy as picking the correct parts to swap out. There is more info now than their has been in the past. However with companies like DDM stepping up and offering complete "ready to drop in" solution. This "next step" can be achieved in your own garage.

With the detailed pictures and instructions I am doing I would hope to see more people taking this next step.

I will be completely honest with everyone. I have no problem admitting I thought I could just pop some stronger rods in and change the pistons out and call it done. And after reading @iNewton post on issues with pistons knocking and other issues that I didn't even want to know about there was NO WAY I was going to try it. Thank you @iNewton for your info and all the time you have sacrificed. I will gladly pay DDMWorks or any other company that has a good track record to do that part for me. And they freaking guarantee their work. How awesome is that!

I'm planning on getting back up at 1am and going back out to the shop. I may have this thing on the ground by daylight. And once I swap the turbo and other goodies over to the new engine I may be able to fire it up tomorrow.