Customer Build

    Quote from Jeff@DDMWorks

    A customer called us a while back asking about a built engine as he has blown up two now with a turbo kit. Another shop was going to install the engine for him up north but that didn't work out. We got his Slingshot down here to DDMWorks to install the engine and things have snowballed from there... Here are some photos and details showing what is being done.



    can you enlighten us if the blown engines were from any of the known turbo makers? I have heard that none of the Alpha Turbos have led to blown engines.


    Also if going with a turbo from say Hahn or Alpha and not going through a major new engine, while the turbo is going in, is it worth while to say replace the head bolts with Arp? Are there other things that could be done without an engine tear down?

    Quote from Switchblade

    can you enlighten us if the blown engines were from any of the known turbo makers? I have heard that none of the Alpha Turbos have led to blown engines.
    Also if going with a turbo from say Hahn or Alpha and not going through a major new engine, while the turbo is going in, is it worth while to say replace the head bolts with Arp? Are there other things that could be done without an engine tear down?

    That's because Henry @Turbosling does not usually recommend setting boost past 6-8 pounds of boost and that's what he sends his stuff out at. At least the few (mine included) that I've been privy to know how they're being setup. It's when you venture into the 10-12 or higher regions of boost that you're playing with fire. Mostly cause you don't know what was used during the manufacture of our stock engines. Somewhere I read (queue @Tripod) a document that GM themselves rates these engines at 283 hp max. That's 6-8 pound range.
    Of course, I may be full of $h!t but that's been my experience and research :thumbsup: thus far.

    Quote from Switchblade
    Quote from Switchblade

    can you enlighten us if the blown engines were from any of the known turbo makers? I have heard that none of the Alpha Turbos have led to blown engines.


    Also if going with a turbo from say Hahn or Alpha and not going through a major new engine, while the turbo is going in, is it worth while to say replace the head bolts with Arp? Are there other things that could be done without an engine tear down?


    The 3 major turbo kit manufacturers out there have all had kits they sold installed on vehicles that have blow engines, some people have even blown multiple engines with some of the turbo kits installed. The vehicle you are seeing being built in this thread had a turbo kit with the 4.5# spring setup in it from what we can tell, someone correct me if I am wrong on that (bare metal small spring and yellow medium spring).


    As for what you can do to make sure that everything is running right, I highly suggest talking with the supplier of any kit before hand and see what they are suggesting. ARP head studs can be done without pulling the engine though and are a good safety measure. A good boost controller is something I would recommend highly with the turbo kits. The gauge that we have been testing here, monitors both boost and air/fuel ratio and if either one get out of a safe area under boost, it will automatically cut boost. That is something I would suggest on the turbo kits so that you do not have to worry about watching any gauges while driving.


    Innovate Motorsports Boost Controller and Wideband Gauge


    With our supercharger kits, we have not seen the need for any engine re-enforcement at all, just an exhaust and header is all that is needed. We typically do not suggest a boost gauge, since the boost is fixed based on the pulley ratio of engine to supercharger. We can even setup the supercharger to run with stock exhaust though if needed by the customer.


    Rotrex Supercharger Kit for the Polaris Slingshot by DDMWorks


    Hope that helps,
    Dave

    Every turbo system should have a boost and AFR gauge. I think DDM carries the AEM Failsafe gauge. It is easy to read and it is very accurate . And as an added bonus it has a 3 hour data logger. Just install the free software and download the data via the USB cable attached to the gauge.


    The stock engine is pretty dang tough. I forced 10.2PSI into my slingshot for a while.. I did notice several times that my fuel ratio would go rather lean. If I had not had a gauge I would have probably kept my foot in the throttle and who knows... It could have blown. I have since added a fuel pump and I am hoping my problem of running lean at higher boost levels has gone away. I will know soon.


    There has to be some common sense when running these boosted engines,, Even at low boost you can kill an engine if you get a tank of fuel that isn't up to spec. Or if you lug it around or if it knocks for some reason. You have to use your ear and your butt to get a sense of what the engine is doing...

    I noticed that gauge has the ability to cut boost? How? Also @rabtech can you elaborate more on the upgraded fuel pump? I know with the Alha kit you get upgraded fuel nozzles so it makes sense to get a better fuel pump. Is the slingshots one internal or external? Which one are you going with?

    Quote from Switchblade

    I noticed that gauge has the ability to cut boost? How?

    They gauge is a boost controller also. When you set up the gauge you can tell it above X psi, Air fuel ratio must be below 12.5 or whatever you want and if it goes above that value, the boost controller opens and reduces boost to spring pressure. Also, the gauge will cut boost if boost spikes above a set value also.


    As far as I know all the major forced induction kits are including upgraded fuel injectors, most everyone is using the same 60# Siemens injectors. I think everyone has also switched over to the 2 Bar MAP sensors also and include the upgraded injectors and MAP sensors with the kits.


    The Slingshot Fuel pump is internal to the tank and has an integrated fuel pressure regulator and is a non-return style setup like most new cars.

    Quote from rabtech

    Every turbo system should have a boost and AFR gauge. I think DDM carries the AEM Failsafe gauge. It is easy to read and it is very accurate . And as an added bonus it has a 3 hour data logger. Just install the free software and download the data via the USB cable attached to the gauge.


    The stock engine is pretty dang tough. I forced 10.2PSI into my slingshot for a while.. I did notice several times that my fuel ratio would go rather lean. If I had not had a gauge I would have probably kept my foot in the throttle and who knows... It could have blown. I have since added a fuel pump and I am hoping my problem of running lean at higher boost levels has gone away. I will know soon.


    There has to be some common sense when running these boosted engines,, Even at low boost you can kill an engine if you get a tank of fuel that isn't up to spec. Or if you lug it around or if it knocks for some reason. You have to use your ear and your butt to get a sense of what the engine is doing...

    Agreed. Most of the engines are pretty dang tough. I consistently see over 10lbs of boost on the track. Flying in 4th gear it will go over 11lbs.



    Unfortunately, some people get a bum motor and/or don't get their system installed correctly. It is not hard to blow a motor if your stuff isn't hooked up correctly and you don't know what to listen/look for.

    I am sure the DDM built motors will be sweet! Looking forward to seeing them out in the wild!

    Owner of Slingshot #263 that has some stock parts left on it. :D

    Before anyone thinks im just sucking up to Dave because they are building my engine. I guess now would be a good time to let everyone know that I am very familiar with the Rotrex supercharger. I installed the same one Dave uses on a 2300CC Triumph Rocket 3. And if you look at the engine size they are basically the same. 2.3 vs 2.4 . I love my turbo. And I have never had a single issue with it. I'm sure if I had a supercharged setup I would be just as happy. I won't go into bragging about mine vs theirs. It's just a different way to pressurize an intake.


    I can talk about the Rotrex supercharger. I am probably the only person on the forum that has actually installed one before and used it for thousands of miles. I am speaking from experience when I say that they are an amazing piece of engineering. It takes special oil called traction oil. It basically can sit and idle along with you on the highway and when you actually need boost the supercharger tightens up builds boost. I want to say it is like a centrifugal clutch effect.


    Here is my other baby that I wish I had NEVER sold. It was so strong. 230hp 190lbs of pure torque. And sounded so bad ass... like a freaking cab over diesel in-line 6 cylinder. Basically the 3 cylinder triumph engine would turn 3000rpm and sound like a diesel 6 cylinder at 1500rpm.










    So @rabtechwhy did you go with the rotrex on your sling? I am also interested in the difference as well. I have cash in hand and am researching to make my order within a week. I have talked extensively to Alpha Motorsport, but can honestly say I am on the fence. I am curious Dave @Dave@DDMWorks you say the engine doesn't need to be upgraded with your kit? Also I have a 1320 header and alpha variable exhaust. Will those work with your kit? I know with the Alpha I would have to ditch the exhaust due to space.

    Agreed. Most of the engines are pretty dang tough. I consistently see over 10lbs of boost on the track. Flying in 4th gear it will go over 11lbs.



    Unfortunately, some people get a bum motor and/or don't get their system installed correctly. It is not hard to blow a motor if your stuff isn't hooked up correctly and you don't know what to listen/look for.

    I am sure the DDM built motors will be sweet! Looking forward to seeing them out in the wild!



    Won't be long and I'll give u some videos and some really up close data of it running at 14psi.