I finished the jmod last night and would like to illuminate the new window. Is it possible to splice in to the halos so that the halos and the leds under the jmod would all come on together from one switch? I'm very uneducated when it comes to electrical applications.
Need some wiring help.
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I am also not too educated on electrical stuff either but if I was you I would run and connect the Jmod light wires to the same switch for the halo lights. Make the connection at the switch instead of splicing wires.
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If you want and can you could splice into halos but would highly recommend soidering and using waterproof heat shrink. They 2 steps would help keep corrosion out.
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I bought the secondary fuse box kit from Slingmods
The kit has an option to have power from ignition or constant battery.
I hooked all my LED lights in the front wing to an ignition activated position so as soon as you turn the key everything goes on.Hope it helps
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Okay so I should solder to the halo switch? Maybe this job should be outsourced
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You can do it! Easy peezy! But it doesn't have to be soidered to the switch. Just recriminations wires all together and put back on switch.
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I bought the secondary fuse box kit from Slingmods
The kit has an option to have power from ignition or constant battery.
I hooked all my LED lights in the front wing to an ignition activated position so as soon as you turn the key everything goes on.Hope it helps
I had one of those until it burnt up on a ride and took my lights out with it, but pigmanfu to the rescue and got my lights back to get home.
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The most important thing to remember when installing electrical devices is "current draw". When adding devices to an existing circuit it is important to determine that everything between the power source and the device being added is sized appropriately.
When designing a new circuit you first add the current draw of each individual device to determine the total load in amps and then you size the wire accordingly and use the appropriate fuse to protect that size conductor.
The reason for the use of relays in a circuit can most easily be explained by considering the most basic engine "starter" circuit. If it wasn't for the use of a solenoid (large relay) we would have to install a huge ignition switch in the dash large enough to handle the total load of the starter motor and run "jumper cable" size wires to and from it.The use of a relay allows us to reduce the size of the conductors running from the switch to the relay because the only current running through the switch is the load of the relay not that of the devices it controls. And with the advent of ECU/ECM's the use of relays was imperative otherwise the ECU would have been as big as a lunch box and extremely expensive.
My best advice to someone who is considering adding an additional load to an existing circuit would be to measure the maximum existing load with an amprobe there by removing any guess work. The one I have in my tool box is a FLUKE T5-600 and they can be found on ebay for a little over $100. And the best part about this particular meter is you don't have to disconnect any wires to use it.
I know I didn't directly answer your question @Cameron Roberts but I hope this helps someone trying to tackle some basic wiring mods on their own. -
The most important thing to remember when installing electrical devices is "current draw". When adding devices to an existing circuit it is important to determine that everything between the power source and the device being added is sized appropriately.
When designing a new circuit you first add the current draw of each individual device to determine the total load in amps and then you size the wire accordingly and use the appropriate fuse to protect that size conductor.
The reason for the use of relays in a circuit can most easily be explained by considering the most basic engine "starter" circuit. If it wasn't for the use of a solenoid (large relay) we would have to install a huge ignition switch in the dash large enough to handle the total load of the starter motor and run "jumper cable" size wires to and from it.The use of a relay allows us to reduce the size of the conductors running from the switch to the relay because the only current running through the switch is the load of the relay not that of the devices it controls. And with the advent of ECU/ECM's the use of relays was imperative otherwise the ECU would have been as big as a lunch box and extremely expensive.
My best advice to someone who is considering adding an additional load to an existing circuit would be to measure the maximum existing load with an amprobe there by removing any guess work. The one I have in my tool box is a FLUKE T5-600 and they can be found on ebay for a little over $100. And the best part about this particular meter is you don't have to disconnect any wires to use it.
I know I didn't directly answer your question @Cameron Roberts but I hope this helps someone trying to tackle some basic wiring mods on their own.which is exactly why I would vote for "outsourcing".....
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- If your factory battery doesn't have enough juice or your cabling needs increased due to amp draw I might be able to hook you up. Wife and I had a small project today.
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If your factory battery doesn't have enough juice or your cabling needs increased due to amp draw I might be able to hook you up. Wife and I had a small project today.
That cable would probably carry enough juice to power a few LEDs.
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Unless it was for Rabtech sling then we would probably have to go up a couple more sizes. After all I heard he thinking about doing a battery shelf build.
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@Cameron Roberts I hope I didn't discourage you from attempting to wire your hood LED's yourself. I was just trying to explain why sometimes it's ok to add additional load to some circuits but not so much to others.
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I don't know beans about lighting. I just figured the halos would be the proper spot.
I don't have Halos and I have no way of knowing how yours are wired so I can't tell you with certainty and I'm not going guess. Modern LED's draw very little current but they all add up and I would rather error on the safe side. Maybe someone who has your same setup will chime in. Good Luck
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I don't have Halos and I have no way of knowing how yours are wired so I can't tell you with certainty and I'm not going guess. Modern LED's draw very little current but they all add up and I would rather error on the safe side. Maybe someone who has your same setup will chime in. Good Luck
Slunglow-I hope you did not take offense to my comment about out-sourcing. I was OPS mgr for co. that built drones for USAF-- although I was in charge of every step- from CF lay-up, machine shop, paint, bond shop, and final assembly- when it came to testing, or trouble-shooting electrical problems- I got behind the yellow line. Limitations are a good thing, when you understand them. I thoroughly respect the electrical dudes- ya all are wizards. I just don't have the patience or burning desire to learn-- there are some things best left to the experts!
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No I didn't take it that way at all @NatomasSlingshot1 I think it's great some owners dive in and aren't afraid to try anything. But I, like you, tend to tread lightly in unknown waters. Better safe than sorry
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@Cameron Roberts the wires for the halos are like a couple strands of hair. Although LEDs draw virtually no current, I wouldn't recommend splicing into the halos' wires just because they are so small!!
Take a drive up to see me next weekend and I'll hook a brother up!!
