Does this look like I have a Clutch Master Cylinder leak?

  • My 2015 Slingshot has been out of commission since the middle of last year. I had to replace the Angle Drive and I finally finished the replacement during the Fall after Family visits, Life getting in the way, etc. After replacing the original dead battery and started the engine, I noticed the rear wheel hub was turning even with the transmission in Neutral and the clutch pedal went all the way to the floor. When I checked the clutch reservoir, I found it bone dry. I delayed addressing the problem because my first fear was needing to pull the engine to replace the hydraulic clutch actuator. I had looked underneath the Slingshot for signs of a leak, but didn't see anything below the clutch bell-housing or under the pedal area. I finally read about clutch master cylinders leaking inside the cockpit or inside the engine compartment and then found what I hope is a sign that I need to replace the clutch master cylinder. The Clutch fluid reservoir was bone dry.

    I have attached a pic -

    Before ordering a replacement, I thought I'd ask folks here for their opinions. Although I found no apparent leak inside the cockpit near the pedals, the drip runs in the pic make me think I do need to replace the clutch master cylinder.


    Also, does anyone know of a non-Polaris clutch master cylinder that will fit at a cheaper price? Cheap Cycle Parts lists the clutch master cylinder as

    K-MASTER CYLINDER,CLUTCH,BOOT 24249817 2208233 @ $128.99. I've seen some references to a GM part, but they appear to be referring to the brake master cylinder.


    Do folks agree that the picture indicates a leaky clutch master cylinder? It certainly seems easier to replace the clutch master cylinder than having to pull the motor to get o the clutch actuator and replacing the clutch while I'm at it.


    Thanks.

  • How about first refill the reservoir and see what is happening? Couple of $$$ for fluid and a couple of minutes time??? Just thinking ???

  • I just replaced mine { 2016 } the best price I found was at rock auto,com

    I'll have to go check their site.

    Just did. Looks like they still carry the same pn Polaris originally used on my 2015. Guess I'll be ordering a2008 Pontiac Solstice Clutch MC once I'm sure my Clutch MC is the culprit behind losing my hydraulic fluid.

    Thanks.

  • looks like I am having same problem. Was difficult shifting when first driving earlier in the week. Went to go for a drive and couldn't even get it in reverse. Clutch reservoir was dry. This is the 2nd time in 6 Months that it needed filled. Now to find the source of fluid loss

    2016.5 Pearl White SL LE

  • Polaris lists pn 2208233 as the replacement for the original 2429817 Clutch Master Cylinder and prices it around $130, depending on the seller. RockAuto lists replacement units from 4 manufacturers, with 2 currently available (FTE/Valeo and GM). The GM unit uses the original pn 24249817 used by Polaris. Prices currently list at $53 for the FTE and $65 for the GM Genuine part, but the GM part has about 1 week delay. I'm planning on ordering the GM original.

    See - https://www.rockauto.com/en/ca…utch+master+cylinder,1996

    My 2015 Service Manual shows just a few steps in removal on installation and doesn't mention needing any special replacement parts such as washers, etc. Here's the relevant 2015 Service Manual pages -


  • I missed the section on Clutch Bleeding (p 5.100 from my 2015-17 Service manual), so here it is -

    Personally, I'd like to find a complete Bleeder kit that includes a bleeder cap to attach a vacuum pump for maximum ease of removing the air bubbles. I've seen kits with a vacuum pump, but the only kits with caps I've seen are for Brake Master cylinders, (I think) and I don't know if the caps would fit the Polaris Clutch Fluid Reservoir.

    Just saw that a replacement Reservoir with cap is $35. Anybody know of a replacement cap that could be converted for use with a vacuum pump?

    Edited once, last by BKL ().

  • BKL did you do the replacement yet? Any tips? How difficult?

    After just topping off the hydraulic fluids (brake and clutch), I've probably driven 200 miles or so and the fluids still looked fine, last I checked. I've spent a good portion of the past several weeks redoing the darned belt alignment and tension and keep finding the belt shifting to the outer side of the pulley after each test run. I plan on attacking the problem again this weekend. I'll try to remember to check the brake and clutch fluids and try to remember to post if I find any problems.

  • So this just happened to me. I have an early 2016 model. Shame on me, I had symptoms and over time didn't even notice them!


    My slingshot has less than 5000 miles on it and i drive it a few times a week, usually local (duh, its 7 years and 5k miles). First I noticed when shifting to neutral the RPMS would fall pretty low. I didn't realize it at the time but this was likely because the clutch was not fully disengaging (probably wearing clutch pretty badly). It was hard to get into 2nd gear for a while but I figured meh, its second gear, is what it is and moved on (and often skipped 2nd anyway cuz I'm lazy as hell). Yesterday I Was backing in at my office and could not for the life of me get it into reverse. That's when I hit google and the forums.


    Found it was bone dry. Borrowed a coworkers car and grabbed some DOT4 and filled it up. Pumped clutch a bunch of time and seemed the shifter would slide ok. I started on way home and could not get out of second so that was fun.... Made it home and again could not back up for beans. Then I was just pissed so I said screw it ill get it towed into the shop.


    This morning I went to try again and take my kid to school. Start her up and damn cannot move the shifter (but could easily with engine off and clutch engaged). Texted my service guy to get it towed for this and regular service. Then I was pissed enough to start doing other things. I then popped the reservoir open and kept pumping the clutch. Then I noticed the air bubbles. So I essentially was bleeding the system. I lifted the clutch which by now had lost full range of motion and pumped the hell out of it. Then I checked fluid level again and it dropped by about 30% which I think was a good sign. I filled it up and then as if nothing happened it was better than even when it was new.


    I thin over time I just accepted its not a very refined transmission (or anything really) and ignored the degradation. Where the fluid leaked from? yeah that part I don't know since I cant get under it obviously and don't have a lift. Anyway, this seems to be ANOTHER broad Polaris problem on these models.


    It bothers me that Polaris has no shame, no notices or recalls for known, mass problems. Whatever, they suck but I love driving this thing anyway

  • Looking at 150,000 miles on 2 Slings which I still have and have never had this problem. If it has been leaking it will mark it's spot.