Brake pressure switch theory?

  • Like a lot of people, I had the dash light for brake pressure switch issue. The typical, wouldn't be on initially but would come on after using the brakes. This has been going on for most of the almost 2 years I have owned my slingshot. Like most, I would just commute/cruise. In the last few months, I have gotten into more "spirited" driving. This means driving faster, braking harder than usual. After a couple of trips of driving Like this, my light has not come back on In over 2 months. Soooo, my theory is that the switch "sticks" in a spot internally and the added pressure from harder braking has pushed it beyond a worn spot a few times allowing it to move more freely... just a thought that others may try?

    2016.5 Pearl White SL LE

  • The older Slings had bad batches of sensors. Once they were updated to the new switches the problem seems to have gone away. Not saying it couldn't happen again with new switches, just very rare. It only affects the cruise control so it's not a "stop ride" situation.

    2JZ Swap - 400+ WHP - Custom Hood - PRP Seats - Cerwin Vega Stereo - AccuAir - Foose Wheels - Hankook Tires - LiteTheNite LED's

  • Lowpt2001 I like your theory,since all I do with my Sling is drive it in the curves aggressively.Not much of a cruiser,I have not had the dreaded brake failure light come on....yet!! But to mess your theory up,you know dalton202 drives like I do and he just had to replace his brake pressure switches.One last thing...My theory is,the bear stop in Pickens fixed your brake pressure switches...:00000019: ( video would not load,file to big..Giggty!!)

  • SC Slinger that too! Seriously, getting on brakes really hard like that instance is precisely what I'm referring to. Maybe have Dalton try locking it up a few times...just to see? I have switches on order (from performance 🙄🤦‍♂️) I am debating on whether or not to have them changed now.

    2016.5 Pearl White SL LE

  • SC Slinger that too! Seriously, getting on brakes really hard like that instance is precisely what I'm referring to. Maybe have Dalton try locking it up a few times...just to see? I have switches on order (from performance 🙄🤦‍♂️) I am debating on whether or not to have them changed now.

    I am pretty sure he went with the mechanical ones over the junk stock magnetic ones.So hopefully no more issues for him.If I was you,if you have the mechanical ones coming,change them out.Also,when Dalton changed his out,he took his Sling to Cherokee cycles in Greer to bleed the brakes,he said it made a world of difference...So much so,it stops like a car now.

  • Different switches Shane. The brake failure light is usually caused by the switches in the master cylinder. Those are the ones that I changed. The magnetic switch being changed to a mechanical one is the brake pedal switch. This one causes a traction control light. Both faults can be reset by restarting the sling and neither of them will stop you from riding, unless there is a true fault not related to the switches. Either way both are fairly easy fixes that give you peace of mind.

    I almost forgot, I NEVER drive spirited!!!!! LOL!!!

  • Different switches Shane. The brake failure light is usually caused by the switches in the master cylinder. Those are the ones that I changed. The magnetic switch being changed to a mechanical one is the brake pedal switch. This one causes a traction control light. Both faults can be reset by restarting the sling and neither of them will stop you from riding, unless there is a true fault not related to the switches. Either way both are fairly easy fixes that give you peace of mind.

    I almost forgot, I NEVER drive spirited!!!!! LOL!!!

    Gotcha...Makes since since you had to bleed the brakes afterwords.Magnetic switch will be next it seems,a lot going bad here lately.Never drive "spirited"....You going to:00007505:

  • So here is my take. Been dealing with this for a few yrs and ordered the switches on line and finally got to change them. My light would come on if I applied the brakes coming to a stop sign and braking from a 50mph road. So changed them and bled the system. Now the light comes on when I drive froward 20ft and not even touch the brakes. I can pump the brakes all day long and no light until I move forward. So I unplugged the sensors and just put the old ones in line leaving the new sensors in the master cylinder. Back to only coming on when I press the brakes hard but those sensors on the master cylinder are not even plugged in? So now what. I changed the magnetic switch awhile ago with mechanical and it works great. Any ideas fellows?

  • I have owned a cars and trucks for 60 years and have put 100,000 miles or more on most of them 350,000 on a Sunbird. I have never replaces a sensor in a master cylinder. Why can't Polaris build a Slingshot with out all these problems. Maybe we need to return to the days of far less electronics.

    If the music is to loud you are to old.

  • So here is my take. Been dealing with this for a few yrs and ordered the switches on line and finally got to change them. My light would come on if I applied the brakes coming to a stop sign and braking from a 50mph road. So changed them and bled the system. Now the light comes on when I drive froward 20ft and not even touch the brakes. I can pump the brakes all day long and no light until I move forward. So I unplugged the sensors and just put the old ones in line leaving the new sensors in the master cylinder. Back to only coming on when I press the brakes hard but those sensors on the master cylinder are not even plugged in? So now what. I changed the magnetic switch awhile ago with mechanical and it works great. Any ideas fellows?

    Sounds like it's still the magnetic switch that's acting up. I know you said you switched it out but maybe it needs a little adjustment (if possible) to get the problem to go away.

    2JZ Swap - 400+ WHP - Custom Hood - PRP Seats - Cerwin Vega Stereo - AccuAir - Foose Wheels - Hankook Tires - LiteTheNite LED's

  • Sounds like it's still the magnetic switch that's acting up. I know you said you switched it out but maybe it needs a little adjustment (if possible) to get the problem to go away.

    checked and working. Brake lights activate when pedal pushed. I have checked everything I can think of. Just hoping to stumble on something I havent thought of so please chime in as it could be that simple and I havnt checked