Fuel Pump Voltage Issues

  • Hey guys sorry this is my first post, but I need some help.This is kind of a long story so I will try and condense it down while giving all the info I have.


    I have a new to me 2018 SLR and have had it about 8 months. about month ago it shut off going down the road. I pulled over and it started right back and we road it around for a few more days without any problems. I parked it due to weather and vacation for about 3 weeks, and when I went to start it , it would turn over but not start. After searching around I have narrowed it down to a voltage problem with the fuel pump. I am looking for any information ya'll might have snd in case I will list steps taken and results found.


    1) 2 error codes found 66017 / 5 Fuel Pump Relay Driver Circuit and the / 5 is Driver Circuit Short to B+/Open

    and on the Ride Command screen 66017 SPN 5 FMI PO230 Fuel Pump Relay Driver Circuit.


    2). Charged the battery over night. Started right up once but would not start again. (fuel pump would not come on)


    3) Checked relays (even swapped some around ) and fuses all checked out ok still no power to the pump


    4) Removed rear body to get to the fuel pump connector. checked the voltage. found the voltage should be a min of 7 mine was 5.04


    5) removed the battery took it to the local auto parts store and had it tested. they said it tested good


    6) reinstall the battery and the SS started again maybe 2 times and again no power to the pump showing 5.04 volts at the pump


    7) again charge the battery over night. checked volts first before trying to start and again 5.04 volts except now the pump has power and the SS has started every time. turn the key the pump powers up and starts. let it sit over night and starts, sat all the next day and starts.


    8) battery shows 12 V the Alternator shows 13.4 something so its putting out


    I am leaning toward a new battery. the old one is the stock one and I don't know how it was maintained. I don't have any electrical upgrades so the stock one should be fine but before I spend money on a new battery can ya'll please share any thing I could check that I might have missed,


    Thanks for any suggestions

  • D/S

    It could have been a poor connection at the battery. Once you removed it to get it checked and when you reinstalled and tighten everything back it sounds like it resolved the issue. I have a 2018 SL. These models come with the smaller motorcycle battery and I had to replace mine a couple of months ago. The small battery does not last long, especially if it sits without a battery charger on it. Hope this helps.

  • Thanks SlingSC I forgot the other thing I plan is to check and clean the grounds when I install the battery for good right now its just hooked up. and I was kinda floored when it started and has been for 2 days now.

  • Tanks BKL but the fuel pump is still showing only 5.04 volts with a over night battery charge the only difference now is the pump comes on that's one of the things I don't understand about what's going with it, according to the information I have the pump should not work now


  • Tanks BKL but the fuel pump is still showing only 5.04 volts with a over night battery charge the only difference now is the pump comes on that's one of the things I don't understand about what's going with it, according to the information I have the pump should not work now


    It seems paragraph 6 has your solution. It says if the Voltage is below 7 Volts, then your problem should lie with the battery, ignition switch, relay(s), wiring harness or ECU. I kinda doubt the problem lies with the ECU, but you seem to be losing voltage from one of the other items. If you run a new wire to the pump and the voltage shows above 7 volts, then you have a problem with that wire. I sympathize with your problem as I hate troubleshooting electrical problems. Disconnecting the factory wire to the pump and connecting straight from the battery should help clarify things.

    Worst case, maybe try replacing the fuel pump. Polaris wants around $400 last I checked but see post # 22 here for alternative sources to just replace the fuel pump - Bad gas?. Good Luck!

  • Electrical issues....


    Since it's a 2018, possible water intrusion/oxidation in a connector.


    And a 2018 is not immune to Polaris assembly with connector pins not fully seated in the connector body.


    The above checks involve some time.


    Agree with SlingSC earlier statement about the battery disconnect and re-install.

    But, most folks don't bother to check the battery cable to frame ground point nor the engine to ground frame points.


    Could borrow a 12v battery from another source and check pump voltage.

    Slingshot Flyer! Well, of course it's red... :REDSS:

  • Hey Guys thanks for all the suggestions. so today I pulled the battery out and carried it to a battery place they tested it again and again advised me it was good and no need to replace it. when I reinstalled it, I guess the ECM went out according to the error code the EPS is throwing a code. so I gave in and dropped it at the local shop.


    Thanks again for the help I will post up in a couple of weeks when I find out what happened

  • A little update. I went by my dealer and found they need room for storage so they went a head and run their test on mine. turns out the ECM did short out, they said it was so bad that their reader would not work. so I have a replacement on order thanks to Kyle at zzperformance so now the plans to go over all the wiring to see if I can find any bad spots that would have cause it, if I find anything I will let y'all know.

  • A little update. I went by my dealer and found they need room for storage so they went a head and run their test on mine. turns out the ECM did short out, they said it was so bad that their reader would not work. so I have a replacement on order thanks to Kyle at zzperformance so now the plans to go over all the wiring to see if I can find any bad spots that would have cause it, if I find anything I will let y'all know.

    That's the first time I've heard of an ECU going bad like that. Good Luck!

  • Ok guys first thanks to everyone who helped with my issue. Today I think I found my problem. under the mounting plate that the ECM mounts on is a plug 2 1/2 to 3 inches that had become unplugged. A buddy helped me figure out that the ECM was not getting power. once I plugged it back up and hooked up the old ECM it started right up. I am not sure why it became loose but I guess messing with the wires caused it to become completely loose.


    So if you're ECM looses communication, check for power at the ECM connector if no power remove the plate that the ECM is mounted on and check that large plug. it is hidden under that plate.


    Again I would like to thank Kyle at zzperformance for all the help. Kyle answered all my calls sent me all kinds of info and links and shipped out a new ECM in a couple of days when I ordered it.


    I hope this helps someone one day who may have the same issue

  • I'm glad you got it sorted out. If you do not need or want the tuned PCM let me know and I am happy to take it back. I don't want you stuck with something you do not need or want. If you like the tuned PCM and want to keep it, you can send me your old PCM and I can refund you the cost of the PCM core.

    ZZPerformance EST 2000 - Go Fast Not Broke

  • Kyle, that's what's called going the extra mile to satisfy a customer. That shows your desire to truely help the Slingshot community

    I've just never seen a PCM fail so I wasn't fully convinced it was bad. But, I really just wanted to help him get back on the road IF the PCM was actually faulty. Even the dealer just told him "well we can't hook to it so it must be bad." I was able to send D/S the service manual and wiring schematics and he was able to track everything down and get it sorted out. They're slingshots and they tend to do some weird shit sometimes. Luckily this time something just came unplugged.

    ZZPerformance EST 2000 - Go Fast Not Broke

    Edited once, last by Kyle D ().