I mean, sure, no. But it was fine for a couple years then suddenly one day pulled up on me.
Parking Brake Won't Release
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I mean, sure, no. But it was fine for a couple years then suddenly one day pulled up on me.
if the locking nuts on the cable came loose, road vibrations can spin those nuts taking it out of adjustment. ....I would look at that first.... also look at the right side of the back wheel or stop at the dealer and take pictures of the right side of the rear wheel to compare it to yours to see if the e brake assembly looks like it should.
vibration is a good reason to check screws, nuts and bolts on a regular basis. I’ve found many loose and missing screws..
blue lock tight is your friend ...blue...is removable. -
I let the dealer look at it last year. They couldn't figure it out and said they never seen it before. That's when they gave me the price to swap out entire rear.
But think about it this way, If I loosen the nut, the spring doesn't release the brake. It's not the handles job to release the brake, it only keeps it locked. Once I remove tension, by loosening the nut on the rear, I still have to manually take a hammer to the brake to get it to release. Which tells me the spring isn't working. Any adjustments I make on the handle won't help that.
the handle pulls the brake on and releases it....there are teeth in there that lock the handle up.
the coiled spring on the back needs to be attached correctly and the end of the cable locks into the slot. -
Assuming the dealer mechanic is not a moron.
The green arrow below is the coiled spring attached over the lever, which is correct. The orange bars are areas where a lot of us placed zip ties around the coil to prevent rattle and keep the spring from walking to an outboard cocked position.
The orange arrow below shows the spring seating to the cable plate. Notice that in this photo from the manual, the spring is not in place over the brake lever as in the photo above.
I can't see your assembly to verify.
Got to ask...
Have you done or had any work done on the rear caliper other than have the dealer look at it?
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Display MoreAssuming the dealer mechanic is not a moron.
The green arrow below is the coiled spring attached over the lever. The orange bars are areas where a lot of us placed zip ties around the coil to prevent rattle and keep the spring from walking to an outboard cocked position.
The orange arrow below shows the spring seating to the cable plate. Notice that in this photo from the manual, the spring is not in place over the brake lever as in the photo above.
I can't see your assembly to verify.
Got to ask...
Have you done or had any work done on the rear caliper other than have the dealer look at it?
I noticed that bottom drawing and questioned it myself.....I went outside to look at mine to post a picture... I was going to take a picture with the e brake on and one off to show the difference......I have one of those e brake covers on it an you can’t see it unless I remove the cover .... so if someone has one without the cover on it....take 2 pictures and post em.
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The green arrow below is the coiled spring attached over the lever, which is correct. The orange bars are areas where a lot of us placed zip ties around the coil to prevent rattle and keep the spring from walking to an outboard cocked position.
Got to ask...
Have you done or had any work done on the rear caliper other than have the dealer look at it?
Interesting, never heard of the zip tie or walking thing. You can hear this rattle even with the springs tension and road noise/engine/exhaust/music lol? Is the walking doing something bad, because I can move it left/right but doesn't appear that it would affect anything?
No work has been done to the rear calipers at all that I'm aware of. I do all the work and only go to the dealer for recalls and this one thing I've been scratching my head on.
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I think I found the problem and only found the problem after having the wife pull up and down on the handle a few times while the nut was loose.
The spring is doing it's job, but the shaft isn't rotating. I only noticed it because after I took the nut off completely, the entire assembly still moves, I thought it stopped once the nut was loose. After letting it sit for so long, it got worse, and I can feel the extra tension of that plate not rotating freely. I think it needs to be greased just not sure how to take it apart yet due to the springs tension. See the pics below. What's circled in orange, under the rubber boot, is where I think it needs greasing.
Try some penatrating oil like Kroil or Sili Kroil. Spray down and tighten the nut and tap, I SAID TAP on the assembly with a metal object, spray down and do the same thing the next day and it just might loosen up. WD-40 does not count as pentrating oil the only thing WD-40 is good for is cleaning your hands.
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Yea I try to never use WD-40 because it never lasts and isn't for car parts. It sure gets the squeak out of car doors though lol.
Let me see what I have in my garage.
Kroil is the best stuff out there
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WD40 is great for removing rust from chrome. Worked better then Coke and my Harley spoke wheels looked like new using it.
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WD40 is great for removing rust from chrome. Worked better then Coke and my Harley spoke wheels looked like new using it.
Just think what REAL penatrating oil would do.
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Looks like all I have on hand is these. Nothing is like that kroil, should I just order it online?
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Nothing wrong with PB Blaster penetrating oil. On hand and 90% effective is better than 95% ya don't have ......
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I think I found the problem and only found the problem after having the wife pull up and down on the handle a few times while the nut was loose.
By George, I think you got this!
Hit it with PB and let it soak. Hit it again with PB and give it good work out.
Maybe go lighter on that pressure washer in the future.
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Interesting, never heard of the zip tie or walking thing. You can hear this rattle even with the springs tension and road noise/engine/exhaust/music lol? Is the walking doing something bad, because I can move it left/right but doesn't appear that it would affect anything?
The spring had a tendency to ride over the shoulder at the rear and then oval.
Your unit appears to have an extended ear off the cable plate that the 2015/16 did not.
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By George, I think you got this!
Hit it with PB and let it soak. Hit it again with PB and give it good work out.
Maybe go lighter on that pressure washer in the future.
Hit it once with PB and will do again tomorrow. The only thing that hits that area is the hose. I'd never take a pressure washer to a vehicle! lol
The spring had a tendency to ride over the shoulder at the rear and then oval.
Your unit appears to have an extended ear off the cable plate that the 2015/16 did not.
Ah ok makes sense now. 2017 had way less recalls than the earlier ones did.
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I think I found the problem and only found the problem after having the wife pull up and down on the handle a few times while the nut was loose.
The spring is doing it's job, but the shaft isn't rotating. I only noticed it because after I took the nut off completely, the entire assembly still moves, I thought it stopped once the nut was loose. After letting it sit for so long, it got worse, and I can feel the extra tension of that plate not rotating freely. I think it needs to be greased just not sure how to take it apart yet due to the springs tension. See the pics below. What's circled in orange, under the rubber boot, is where I think it needs greasing.
I would suggest making a few more inspections before riding.... when I first got mine while washing and waxing I noticed an empty screw hole....I went around tightening all the screws I could find. Many were a turn or two loose.... these things vibrate a lot.... so loose and missing screws and nuts is an issue.... also get a torque wrench and use it... all the specs are in the manual... wouldn’t hurt to get some blue lock tight to put on the treads..
