Help with TRICLED V2 headlight bypass

    Quote from CHIEFP

    Hello all!


    Did some searching and couldn't find anything. Looking for install video or clearer instructions than the confusing 2 page instruction sheet on Slingmods for the tricled V2 headlight bypass (I have 2018). Thanks.

    Yeah, instructions weren't the best but it's a fairly easy install. I'm not sure about other instructions, but what questions do you have I'm sure someone here can point you in the right direction!

    Quote from EjFord

    Lets alert BKL He might be able to help...

    Unfortunately, the Fog Headlight Switch kit I installed was from Slingshotonly and had MUCH clearer instructions.

    I glanced over the Instructions for the Headlight Bypass Version 2 and they do lack some clarity, like telling you to drill a 2nd hole in Step 10, but never tells you to drill the first hole and doesn't clearly specify where the hole should be drilled in the fuse box cover. This is a relatively minor problem since the holes need to correspond to the two locations where the blades from the kit will be inserted. Also keep in mind that the holes should be high enough that the kit's wiring that feeds thru the holes have enough room to bend and fit down into the original breaker/fuse connections. With the kit's wiring feeding thru the side of the fuse box cover, it should also be kept in mind that care is needed when removing the fuse box cover to ensure that the circuits are still connected properly.

    As far as the kit's design, the connector that replaces the breaker and the fuse basically inserts a switch in place of the breaker and fuse and then uses the two external inline fuses so the system is still protected against overloads. The overall design raises 2 issues in my mind. Keep in mind that I have not physically held/inspected this kit, so the Bypass kit design may have addressed the two issues I have concerns about. Those concerns being that the kit replaces the 30A circuit breaker with what appears to be a simple 30A fuse (green) and also appears to replace the Yellow 20A fuse with a 30A fuse (green). I would prefer the kit replaced both the breaker and the fuse with the same value as the breaker or fuse being replaced. The purpose of the breaker is to allow the breaker to reset itself, if triggered, and by resetting, maintain headlight operation (although the headlights may cycle on/off as the breaker continually triggers and resets). Replacing the breaker with a fuse means that if the fuse blows, the lights are inoperable. If I were to use this kit, I would want to replace the 30A fuses with a 30A breaker of the same type as the fuse used in the kit (based on the pictures in the instructions, I believe the kit uses ATO fuses (but they might be Maxi fuses), so I'd use an ATO breaker. Since the other circuit originally used a 20A fuse, I'd replace the other 30A fuse with a 20A fuse that fits the kit's receptacle. The instructions state that it doesn't matter which set of wires get plugged in to replace the 20A fuse and 30A breaker since the kit uses 30A fuses for each circuit. If someone chooses to replace the 30A fuses with a 30A breaker and a 20A fuse, it is very important that the 20A fuse be placed in the fuse holder that is connected to the original 20A circuit and the 30A breaker (sized for the new fuse holder type) should connect to the corresponding circuit that originally had the 30A breaker. Identifying where to place the 30A breaker and the 20A fuse should be revealed by just pulling one of the 30A fuses and then watch which set of lights goes out. You should probably also do this before installing the kit so that you know which circuit the breaker or fuse controls so you'll know which circuit has the breaker and which circuit has the fuse.

    I have tried to describe my thoughts as accurately and clearly as possible (at least to my warped way of thinking):/, but anyone attempting the changes I suggested should consult with someone knowledgeable about automotive wiring to verify that I haven't made any mistakes. I've been known to overthink things to the point where I just confuse myself!=O Be safe and get a validating opinion.

    Actually, I inevitably want to go back and clean up something like that. I always worry when writing something like that that I might make a mistake or not be clear enough that I end up causing more confusion.

    In this case, since I have never seen the kit in person, I was having to go strictly off the instructions and make educated guesses as to how the entire thing works. I probably spent over 1 hr just trying to make sure I was as accurate as I felt I could be.

    One thing I found interesting about the design was the fact that only 2 wires run to the switch which then controls 2 circuits and their fuses. There is a part of the harness shown in the listing pic that appears to have several wires going in & out, with cable ties to keep that section contained, and which I assume has a relay setup so that the single circuit thru the switch can properly control the 2 circuits that actually handle the two headlight circuits. If I could see the actual components and how they're wired together, I'd like to see how everything is wired and if the 2 headlight circuits are separated so that the each fuse is only responsible for one circuit, which is why I assume there is some sort of relay setup in the bundled section of the harness.

    Should anyone want to try any of the mods I suggested, please make sure you run everything by someone whose electrical knowledge you trust, just to be safe and get a second opinion.

    It's a 4 wire relay, as you suspected. Looking at the top of the fuse box, the resulting install is going to be ugly. You have to put the holes almost on top, and they won't be small. I suppose I can put something on them to keep it close to tight, but I wonder how I'll be able to take the top on and off if needed.


    I'm thinking you could dramatically reduce the size of the holes needed by removing the loom and the plugs from the wires. Drill a small hole, put the wires through the top and reattach the plug on the other side. Course, sounds like I could have just bought the parts and done it myself at that point. Going to have to stare at it some more...

    It would be a complete PITA, but the only real way to avoid drilling the cover is to remove the fuse box from the Slingshot so you can access the wiring from below and then tap into the correct wires so you can then run the wire back to the switch. Pain to figure out, but a better approach from an appearance and waterproof perspective (as long as you take care to keep all connections watertight).

    An alternative would be to run the wires thru the bottom of the fuse box using holes drilled in an open relay spot, assuming there's an open slot in your fuse box). It's best to remove the fuse block so you can make sure that you are not drilling into any wires while making the holes. Then feed the connector and wire up from the bottom and make the connections to the fuse sockets just as if you had drilled the cover. I'd use some silicone to make it watertight. I'd assume this should work since the relays are shorter than the breakers in the Slingshot fuse box and there should be enough room above the relays to run the wires to the fuse sockets. This approach should work w/o needing any mods to the switch harness, but be sure to check wire lengths before starting any drilling and make sure you don't inadvertently damage any wires feeding to the fuse block.

    Quote from CHIEFP

    It's a 4 wire relay, as you suspected. Looking at the top of the fuse box, the resulting install is going to be ugly. You have to put the holes almost on top, and they won't be small. I suppose I can put something on them to keep it close to tight, but I wonder how I'll be able to take the top on and off if needed.


    I'm thinking you could dramatically reduce the size of the holes needed by removing the loom and the plugs from the wires. Drill a small hole, put the wires through the top and reattach the plug on the other side. Course, sounds like I could have just bought the parts and done it myself at that point. Going to have to stare at it some more...

    Put mine through fuse box top and yeah there isn't a lot of slack, but can plug the two fuses in easy enough. That part is kinda finicky, but once it's done it's setup and stays put.


    Thinking a little more about the install, I still have concerns that if I need to remove the cover, it will affect the fuse socket connections. To avoid this situation, it might make sense to just notch the cover so the cover can be removed w/o affecting the thru-cables. If concerned about water-tightness, I'd look for some non-porpous foam that might be fit around the thru-cables that would hopefully provide a somewhat water-tight seal.