How to install a line lock on your front brakes

Why would you want this???

Well that is easy. For smokey tire burnouts! And for the really rare use of it as an anti-theft device. Yep. Anti-theft. IF you hid the button that engaged the solenoid you WOULD NOT be able to move the SS. I am pretty sure it would be almost impossible to even tow it..

Why can't I just drop the clutch and hit the brake and roast the tire?

You can.... I just dont see a reason to toast up my back brake rotor to hold the bike still while doing a burnout. Especially when these parts are less than $100.00

Another reason to use a line lock is because you are holding back on the engines power when your holding the brake. With a line lock you get full power burnouts.

Why do you want to do burnouts?

Reallly.... I'm 44 years old with a turbo Slingshot and 1800 watt stereo. That's all I'm saying on that subject. If this isn't something you would do to yours then you don't have to read any further.

For those that are as young minded and childish as me. Here is how I'm doing it.

I'll post this picture first and it shows all the needed parts. Then I'll come back and add individual pictures of all the parts. It is very confusing gathering this mess of parts so that it is safe and so that everyone works well together. This brake system uses metric 10mmx1.0 fittings with DIN flares. The line lock is standard 1/8 NPT fittings. And there had to be a way to get the correct ends everywhere that they are needed. Believe me there is a big difference in flares and threads. I will show you each one and how it's used. I want to make sure it's as safe and as durable as the factory connections.

You will have to either use flexible brake line (stainless) or your going to need to buy a hydraulic line bender. $9.00. I am bending the line that will connect to the brake manifold right now.

I guess now would be a good time to explain where I am hooking all this to.

If you look down at the brake master cylinder you will see there are two outputs. The one closest to the firewall is the port that supplies the front brakes. The other port that is further away from the firewall is the rear brake output.

What I am doing is putting the line lock between the ABS manifold (distribution block) and the master cylinder output. (The one closest to the firewall that I mentioned above).

This means that I should be able to flip off the traction and handling control. Then mash the brakes hard and flip the switch. This will activate the line lock and trap the brake fluid in the front line. Then I can let off the brake pedal and I should be planted firmly on the pavement with the rear brake loose and the front locked tight. (Just as if I were still holding the brake pedal). Just let out on the clutch with a little RPM and it should bring the back tire to life while staying perfectly still.

We have NPT tapered fittings to deal with on the line lock. Lots of people have lots of ways they would handle this type of thread when dealing with brake lines. The way I handle it is with yellow tape. I have used regular teflon on this type of fittings with brake fluid before and never had any issues. But someone showed me the yellow PTFE tape that is resistant to petroleum products and is teflon. So I now use the yellow instead of the white. It never fails that someone brings up the fact that brake line fittings should not need teflon. They are absolutely correct. This isn't a flared fitting. This is a tapered NPT thread. I have gotten lucky and tightened them so tight that the thread deform like they are supposed to and they seal. And unfortunately I have tightened them so tight that they eventually strip and NEVER stop seeping fluid. So I'll stick with my yellow teflon tape. I do follow some rules when using it though. NEVER use more than 1.5 wraps. And never get close the edge of the fitting. No matter what happens you don't want pieces of this wrap in your brake system. By staying away from the edges of the fitting you can keep any of it from being tore off when it's being screwed in and tightened.

Now that we have converted the line lock ends to brake line fittings we will not need the tape anymore so put that back in the Toolbox. I might mention that your going to need some line wrenches. Line wrenches will save you from stripping the outside of the fittings when tightening them. If you don't have any run to Harbor Freight and grab a set. Even cheap line wrenches are better than expensive open end wrenches. Here are the three line wrenches you will need.

Now for some show and tell. Here is how you will have to turn the hoop that is on the master cylinder. It will turn 180 degrees and point upward. The I figured I would mount the solenoid to the frame rail with a u clamp. I know there is plenty of room for it because I have had a camera bolted to that spot before.

As you can see there is a natural bend to.the stock line. It wants to lay a certain way. So I let it. Then I made some fancy 45 degree bends in the line to come over to the frame rail. The first picture is showing the port on the master cylinder and how the hoop is now pointing upward.

Now the next picture is where I show the place on the ABS manifold where you hook the line coming from the line lock.

Here is basically the loop I made. None of the lines are touching anything or in a bind at all. The solenoid is going to be bolted to the frame so it won't move at all. This will keep the loop rock solid and also keep it from vibrating.

Yep. You are correct. I still haven't bled the brakes yet so give me time. I'm sure I'll do something dumb.

Quote from kenny_h

Sooooo....how does it work?

I went to bed early. All I like is wiring it and installing that really cool switch with the red flippy cover. And I have to bleed it. (the brakes, not me).

Quote from Astrolite

That's funny, my wife was out of town this week and she tried to make me promise not to work in the garage while she was gone. She's afraid no one will be around to hear me screaming for help, lol. Obviously I didn't make the promise!

@rabtech I hope your going to post a video of a wild burnout when this project is complete.

How bout I do a small "proof it works" video and save my rear tire for Maggie Valley. Then in Maggie Valley I do a few really good burnouts. That way it can be recorded by many many cameras.

Im back awake now... About to go back out and vacuum bleed the brakes and put fresh fluid in. I hope the new pressure switches get rid of my red failure light.....

Yall know how i like to get 3/4 into a project and then feel the need to start another. I'm really thinking I need to get this started also.

It still will a be suprise I think. I am just sitting here doubting that I cut into my beautiful wiring harness. Just so I can hear a rev limiter pop and spit fire out my exhaust.

I have fluid sitting in the master cylinder. And I have the mighty vac hooked to the left caliper. I think i need to eat something (believe it or not) because I am super dizzy.
But here is proof that I am just moments away from a test. The brake fluid level is super high because I haven't bled the system yet.

Why. It's my switch. You mount yours where you want to.