Installing Aftermarket (Honda - Acura) Brake Pads

    The following is a short explanation of how I installed Hawk HB275f.620 (Honda - Acura) front brake pads on my SL SlingShot. This installation covers Hawk pads only. If another brand is used additional modifications may be required.
    IMPORTANT NOTE: The same pads can be used for the single rear caliper but installations requires a special tool to reset caliper piston. DO NOT compress rear brake piston with a c-clamp as explained in the following DIY. This can cause damage to caliper and brake system.


    List of vehicles that these pads fit.


    Hawk HB275F.620 Fits Applications (information taken from Jegs)
    ACURA CL BASE 1997-1998
    ACURA CL PREMIUM 1997-1999
    HONDA ACCORD DX 1990-2002
    HONDA ACCORD EX 1993-2002
    HONDA ACCORD LX 1990-2002
    HONDA ACCORD SE 1991
    HONDA ACCORD SE 1993
    HONDA ACCORD SE 1997
    HONDA CIVIC DX 2001-2015
    HONDA CIVIC DX-G 2008-2011
    HONDA CIVIC EX 1996-2012
    HONDA CIVIC EX 2014-2015
    HONDA CIVIC EX SPECIAL EDITION 2005
    HONDA CIVIC EX-L 2009-2012
    HONDA CIVIC EX-L 2014
    HONDA CIVIC GX 2001-2005
    HONDA CIVIC HF 2014
    HONDA CIVIC HX 2001-2005
    HONDA CIVIC LX 1996
    HONDA CIVIC LX 2001-2015
    HONDA CIVIC LX SPECIAL EDITION 2005
    HONDA CIVIC LX-S 2009-2011
    HONDA CIVIC SE 2015
    HONDA CIVIC SI 1999-2000
    HONDA CIVIC SI 2002-2005
    HONDA CIVIC SI 2014-2015
    HONDA CIVIC TOURING 2014
    HONDA INSIGHT BASE 2011-2014
    HONDA INSIGHT EX 2010-2014
    HONDA INSIGHT LX 2010-2014



    Please know that this install is only for the front pads. There are more than one way to do this installation and if anyone would like to add comment or input please feel free to do so. I only ask that you use this information as a guide. I am not responsible for any problems, damage, issues or injuries that might befall you. Hate having to put that in there but i think we all know why.


    Step1: Lifting the front - raise your vehicle using the correct points called out in the owners manual. You will need a floor jack, wheel chocks and a stand. You will only need to raise one front side of the vehicle at a time. If a full brake fluid bleed is to be performed (recommended if your already doing this) I suggest raising the Slingshot with all 3 tires off the ground. Make sure to use quality stands for your safety.


    Step 2: Make sure your Slingshot is on level ground. Apply e-brake and place wheel chocks behind the rear tire and the corresponding front tire that is not being worked on. Loosen the lug nuts of the front wheel you wish to work on first. It does not matter what side you start with. Raise that side of the SlingShot as noted in step1.


    Step 3: With wheel removed and set to the side locate the top caliper bolt and remove using a 9/16" and a small adjustable wrench ( you will only need to remove this top bolt). Any number of tools can be used to remove the bolt. This was what I had handy.
    DO NOT damage your rubber boot.
    NOTE: after bolt was loosened i had to use a small flat head screwdriver to pry the bolt out of the caliper.


    Step 4: Disconnect the brake line from he lower control arm.


    Step 5: Flip caliper down away from the rotor as shown.


    Step 6: Remove pads. Make sure that all (4) retainer clips remain in the caliper mounting bracket. It is also recommended to wipe down the rotor with brake cleaner at this time.



    Step 7: Place new pads on the ground. Slide new pads with brake wear indicator tabs off to the side. They will need to have the tabs removed before installation. The following images help to show the differences in the pads removed (Polaris OE pads) and the new Hawk pads.


    Step 8: Place pads without tabs on the front side (towards rim) of the caliper bracket. Make sure the retainer clips are in place an have not fallen out. PLEASE NOTE: at this time you can add noise reduction (anti-sequel) to the back of the brake pad. I like to install and see if I have noise before adding anything. After installation, break in, and hard braking I can report that I have no noise.




    Step 9: The wear tabs used by Honda will need to be removed. You can either drill off or grind down these tabs. Pads for both the left front and right front will need to have the tabs removed so go ahead and do both at this time. The following images explain what to do and why it is needed.

    Proud supporter of S.O.G.

    (Slingshot Owners Group)

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    Owner/operator: MeanSling LLC :thumbsup:

    Edited 3 times, last by Ruptured Duck ().


    Step 10: Following images explain the reason the wear indicator pads (with tabs removed) need to be installed to the backside of the caliper (away from wheel towards engine). There are small raised spots on the pads that will make contact with the caliper arm if installed to the outside (towards wheel). I did not grind these raised spots down for installation to the back side. The caliper piston cup clears these tabs (image supplied). The last image shows the OE pad and a circle where the caliper cup just clears this raised spot.
    slingshotinfo.com/wcf/index.php?attachment/6040/



    Step 11: Install rear pads making sure retainer clips have not fallen out. Flip the caliper up to see if you will need to compress the piston back in to allow the caliper to swing all the way back into position. In my case I had to compress the piston. It has been recommended to spray brake cleaner around the perimeter of piston prior to compressing.


    Step 12: If the piston needs to be compressed remove the brake fluid caps as shown. Use a medium size c-clamp to compress the piston back in. Take your time. There is no need to rush here.

    Check to see if caliper clears rotor. compress more if needed.


    Step 13: With caliper flipped back into place reinstall master cylinder brake fluid caps. Place rubber slider bolt boot in place and reinstall caliper slider. Tighten bolt as shown.


    Step 14: Repeat for other side. Bleed brakes when completed. I plan to add this to the DYI section when I have more time.



    Hope this helps.

    Proud supporter of S.O.G.

    (Slingshot Owners Group)

    :thumbsup:

    Owner/operator: MeanSling LLC :thumbsup:

    Quote from Orangeman

    Whichever you prefer...if you add it I will delete that, and this post....... if you let it stand I'll just delete this one on a bit ..... artist-squared
    .

    Both the brake cleaner suggestion and the rear caliper compression warning have been added. Please feel free to delete your messages if you like.


    Thank you for the input guys.

    Proud supporter of S.O.G.

    (Slingshot Owners Group)

    :thumbsup:

    Owner/operator: MeanSling LLC :thumbsup:

    I went to Auto Zone and got the kit for the rear brake, but nothing in the kit would fit. One piece was close but would not work so I used needle nose pliers to turn in. Also for me once it was turned all the way in I still did not have enough clearance to put over the rotor. So I ended up taking a little off of the pads until I could get over the rotor. You could use a file or a palm sander but ( NOT A SIDE GRINDER ) you want to keep the surface flat and even across the pad. Just thought I would add this just in case someone else had these same problems.

    Quote from FunCycle

    I went to Auto Zone and got the kit for the rear brake, but nothing in the kit would fit. One piece was close but would not work so I used needle nose pliers to turn in. Also for me once it was turned all the way in I still did not have enough clearance to put over the rotor. So I ended up taking a little off of the pads until I could get over the rotor. You could use a file or a palm sander but ( NOT A SIDE GRINDER ) you want to keep the surface flat and even across the pad. Just thought I would add this just in case someone else had these same problems.

    I bought the kit at harbor Freight it was about $40
    If you need the model I can go out to my trailer tomorrow and check - I think there were 2 options

    The more people I meet

    The more I love my Dog!

    Anyone tried the other compounds for the same pads? For track use for example

    Vi Engineered Turbo (V-Mount)
    Forged LE9
    DDM Works Fuel Rail
    RRR Oil Catchcan
    UPLOK + UPGUARD
    Assault Hub / Steering wheel
    DDM Works short shifter
    PRP Shifter Boot
    Cipher Race Seats and 4 point harness
    XO Luxury Verona 20x12 Toyo R888 315/35r20, 19x9.5 Toyo R888 265/35R19
    and more...

    Well according to Hawks website its the letter in the part number that changes:


    HB275F.620 is ceramic standard pads
    HB275R.620 is street race pads


    Etc.


    I ordered street race pads, its the last step before going to BBK...


    I have a hard time believing you need 14inch disks to stop a 760kg machine. We will see how the pads do on the track.

    Vi Engineered Turbo (V-Mount)
    Forged LE9
    DDM Works Fuel Rail
    RRR Oil Catchcan
    UPLOK + UPGUARD
    Assault Hub / Steering wheel
    DDM Works short shifter
    PRP Shifter Boot
    Cipher Race Seats and 4 point harness
    XO Luxury Verona 20x12 Toyo R888 315/35r20, 19x9.5 Toyo R888 265/35R19
    and more...

    Hawk actually has three compounds (well more than three but three majors) and since they have changed their designations away from what I am used to I just stole this information from DDM's site ......... ninja-squared


    " The Hawk pads come in 3 varieties, Ceramic, Street 5.0, and Street Race. For most installations, the Street 5.0 or Ceramic is going to be the best option. The Ceramic option is very low dust, the Street 5.0 is our favorite pad here with great pedal feel and stopping power, but some dusting, lastly the Street Race pad is designed for track duty and clamps down hard but also dusts the most, not recommended for most drivers. If you have any other questions, just give us a call or shoot an email and we can help you make the choice.

    Hawk Ceramic - Performance Ceramic is engineered to reduce brake NVH (Noise, Vibration and Harshness), creating a quieter performing brake pad. Furthermore, the ceramic brake pad formula has a linear friction profile that allows your ABS brake system to work more effectively. With Performance Ceramic you can expect reduced brake pad wear, lower dust output levels and a rotor-friendly brake pad.

    Hawk Street 5.0 - The new High Performance Street 5.0 Pads are a Ferro-Carbon compound brake pads that provide advanced braking characteristics to enhance the driving experience. This new compound combines the safety and quality of aerospace design partnered with the braking technology of motorsports, the results are shorter stopping distances, improved performance under heavy braking conditions and street car friendly characteristics.


    Hawk Street Race - The trend of using a street car in competition increases every year and competitors are always demanding more, they are always looking for an edge over the competition. The new Hawk High Performance Street/Race brake pad compound provides that edge and provides it in spades; it is the ultimate high performance, street brake pad! Perfect for aggressive street car owners that also use their cars for autocross, HPDE, open track and time trail racing. High Performance Street/Race pads feature Hawk’s mechanical (bond) retention system (MRS), slotted friction, hot bond shim, and pad chamfer that improve the vehicle handling, safety and driver confidence. It performs flawlessly at all temperatures and operating temperatures range from 100-1200F with superior torque while providing a consistent feel and characteristics."


    http://www.ddmworks.com/Slings…wk-Brake-Pads-_p_535.html


    I personally use the Hawk 5.0's on Stop Tech stock size slotted rotors with the stock calipers, a Full Blown master cylinder brace, and Stop Tech STR600 fluid. The only problem I have is keeping heat in the system while just cruising around. Other than that I couldn't ask for better from a manual brake system on the Slingshot. Any more and I feel it would just activate the ABS quicker, putting the braking control in the ECM's hands rather than my foot ...... YMMV


    .

    :REDSS: The ghost of SLingshot past ......

    Edited 2 times, last by Orangeman: sp :( ().

    yes, Hawk has several pads. The F's are night and day stopping compared to the OE's. The main reason I went with the F's was cost. Got the set off eBay for $45 bucks so.... smile-squared

    Proud supporter of S.O.G.

    (Slingshot Owners Group)

    :thumbsup:

    Owner/operator: MeanSling LLC :thumbsup:

    Quote from FunCycle

    I went to Auto Zone and got the kit for the rear brake, but nothing in the kit would fit. One piece was close but would not work so I used needle nose pliers to turn in. Also for me once it was turned all the way in I still did not have enough clearance to put over the rotor. So I ended up taking a little off of the pads until I could get over the rotor. You could use a file or a palm sander but ( NOT A SIDE GRINDER ) you want to keep the surface flat and even across the pad. Just thought I would add this just in case someone else had these same problems.

    Before I went to the Stop Tech big brake kit, I took the brake pad part numbers off of some dark side posts and tried the equivalent Honda brake pads. They did NOT slide right in and took some time on the grinder to squeeze them in. Good part was that the pad surface was slightly larger and they were an overall improvement.

    Maybe I need to add a disclaimer ... my install was with the Hawk pads. Other modifications may be required for different manufacturers pads.

    Proud supporter of S.O.G.

    (Slingshot Owners Group)

    :thumbsup:

    Owner/operator: MeanSling LLC :thumbsup: