@Bill from Hahn RaceCraft, can you confirm the spring rates, front and rear?
FYI, looking around, it looks like stock is 180 pounds front, 360 rear.
New Hahn/QA1 Bolt-In Spherical Coilovers!
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MAGGIE VALLEY INSTALLS!
Just a quick note to solidify the Maggie Valley details. We do intend to install these coilover systems at MV, involving both orders placed beforehand, as well as and new "walk-up" sales which are completed in MV. Of course, it's first come, first served, so we will complete any and all pre-order installs before serving new customers.
If you'd like us to install this coilover system at MV, please contact me here via PM, and we'll get you on the docket! Installations will also include an orientation session with me to help familiarize you with getting the most out of this suspension upgrade.
Check your PM on here. just need to know how to complete the order and if requested schedule works for you... thanks
Earl
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@Bill from Hahn RaceCraft, can you confirm the spring rates, front and rear?
Indeed I can!
Bryan is correct, we've gone 250 front and 350 rear.
The spring rate strategy I am using is, like so many things we do here, ultimately a melding of automotive and motorcycle approaches...just like Slingshot is
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Anyone on the fence about these, I can attest to the monster change in handling these shocks will give. I'm running single adjustable and the pot holes and road bumps don't jar my teeth like the stock shocks did. Even though there's 18 settings on the adjuster knob, most will probably find they don't want to go higher than 7 or 8 for most applications 3 or 4 will be extremely smooth. I have the poly bushings, but didn't know any better at the time of purchase. I would have gladly bought these from @Bill from Hahn RaceCraft had they been available two months ago.
You won't find a better deal for a bolt-on setup.
@BryanL, thx for the info for us fence sitters, are you using the same spring rate (250/350)? thx Also, there's a lot of overall opinions about poly vs spherical bearings and the gist seems to be poly for street and/or comfort and spherical for track and/or handling.
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@Bill from Hahn RaceCraft, thank you for confirming! Do you sell other spring rates, and if so, what do they cost? This would be in addition to what comes on it. I'm thinking down the road for track days with special wheel/tires with increased grip.
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I think 250/350 is a good setup for street use. Anyone on stock shocks should get these, the spring rate doesn't represent the difference in ride quality.
The SS feels so much smoother with aftermarket shocks, and at this price, no one will regret this mod, no matter what type of rider you are.
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@BryanL, thx for the info for us fence sitters, are you using the same spring rate (250/350)? thx Also, there's a lot of overall opinions about poly vs spherical bearings and the gist seems to be poly for street and/or comfort and spherical for track and/or handling.
Yep, I'm running 250/350. It rides great compared to stock. I personally don't know the difference of poly vs. spherical, but Bill and Rab made me think the spherical is better all the way around. I only went with poly because it was easier to shave a millimeter off the poly than to drill the mounts out to 1/2 inch.
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Have to admit, since I ordered a set of these shocks this morning I'm feeling like a young kid looking forward to Christmas morning! At 66 years old that is a pretty cool feeling.
What's even better is knowing I'm not the only one feeling that way doing mods to their rides. 
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@Bill from Hahn RaceCraft, thank you for confirming! Do you sell other spring rates, and if so, what do they cost? This would be in addition to what comes on it. I'm thinking down the road for track days with special wheel/tires with increased grip.
You're most welcome.
Yes, while we feel strongly that this refined setup reaches a very broad swath of possible preferences, we won't turn away special requests from those who have specific intents. Ride smoothness is one of the most subjective aspects of vehicle preference in general, so there are bound to be some hardcore folks, and perhaps even some that want to walk softly. I'd be remiss to not solicit their business as well! As far as cost of custom spring packages, we'll cross that bridge soon enough I imagine, and I'll share more at that time.
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Also, there's a lot of overall opinions about poly vs spherical bearings and the gist seems to be poly for street and/or comfort and spherical for track and/or handling.
Flybuddy, I would generally agree, but I would also use this as an opportunity to emphasize that the type of spherical bearing in play here is a smoother, more forgiving animal than the all-metal solid spherical ends, which are the "traditional" design that preceded this rather recent design advancement. With a steel core, and a filled-nylon spherical socket, it's considerably less harsh in transferred force than the metal solid counterpart (see photo below).
For long term street use, anyone who has driven a machine equipped with all-metal spherical bearings can tell you it turns into a noisy, rattle-prone ride over time as the metal parts wear, causing clearance between them to increase. These hybrid sphericals don't wear like that, self-lubricated by the special nylon formulation, so they don't get noisy, loose and harsh. No not only are they "no slop", they are also more cushioned thanks to the nylon, but just not on the squishy, imprecise level of polys.
The best part is that if and when one does finally wear one of these hybrid bearings enough to actually warrant replacement, popping a couple of snap rings and a minuscule investment in replacement bearings will restore like-new smoothness.
So, the takeaway here is that not all solid/spherical bearings are created the same, and so comparisons have to be carefully examined for this detail. I can say with great certainty that I would be very unlikely to put a solid all-metal coilover bearing setup in any street car I drive, or that a customer drives. Been there, got over that. So, like many have, I'd just settle for poly bushings and deal.
Ah, but now, I feel empowered, as these hybrid spherical bearings have bridged the gap to a large degree: precise, bind-free movement without the noise and harshness of previous all-metal designs. It's truly a case of win/win, for there just was no way to get this level of on-road precision and response before without also suffering the harsh shortcomings and poor wear tendencies of all-steel bearings. This innovation actually really opens things up, for many more of us to enjoy this level of competence in suspension than ever before. I have been shown the light, and man, is it ever bright!
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Can't beat spherical for any style of driving in my opinion .... I can't stand that slow mushy cushy feel.... I had rather have my suspension dampening dialed in and let it do the job its supposed to do than to have the other bushings.. That is my .02
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And I'm a fat butt. My rear spring is 375. I have all the subwoofers and speakers and amps and 2 batteries and I weigh 350 conservatively.
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So here's my first question. I know this has been debated a bit but why would I not want to stick with stock ride height? Primarily concerned with having to get another laser alignment done if that is changed.
There's no reason why you can't run stock height, actually. There is sufficient adjustment range to make them stock height, and the spring adjustment spanner nut wrenches included in the system make this a breeze.
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I think I will run stock height. Barely clearing my driveway as it is. Entering and exiting. We have hills here in pa and pot holes
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Thx for answering all the questions...just ordered
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There's no reason why you can't run stock height, actually. There is sufficient adjustment range to make them stock height, and the spring adjustment spanner nut wrenches included in the system make this a breeze.
Thanks for the reply. So that begs the next question. Could they be shipped out pre-set to factory ride height? Understand that it would still be an approximate but this would really make life easier for those of us wanting to stay stock height.
I have the same issues as others with driveway/roadway approaches in my neck of the woods and even 3/4" will make things more difficult.
JD
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One major thing to consider when talking about ride height is the rear belt tension.
While testing my setup, I found that lowering my SS more than 1/2 inch would start making my belt skip on hard acceleration. I run a turbo so mileage may vary, but basilcally its something to look out for. The more angle the swing arm is from parallel to the SS the less the tension is on the belt. You can't really increase the tension to compensate because now when the suspension decompresses, it will increase the stress on the belt over what its suposed to be, potentially breaking the strap, or causing bearing issues down the line.
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Thx for answering all the questions...just ordered
My pleasure, and thank you as well!
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One major thing to consider when talking about ride height is the rear belt tension.
While testing my setup, I found that lowering my SS more than 1/2 inch would start making my belt skip on hard acceleration. I run a turbo so mileage may vary, but basilcally its something to look out for. The more angle the swing arm is from parallel to the SS the less the tension is on the belt. You can't really increase the tension to compensate because now when the suspension decompresses, it will increase the stress on the belt over what its suposed to be, potentially breaking the strap, or causing bearing issues down the line.
Point well taken. This is another aspect that adjustable coilovers can help us keep under control, for we can benefit from the higher spring rate and stiffer valving to help limit rear suspension travel, thus helping in both respects: we won't dive (compression) as much under acceleration, nor extend (rebound) as far during extension.
We end up re-tensioning the belt slightly in our lowered, boosted machines, seeking a middle ground that will prevent slippage under accel, but not stretch severely tight in extension.
