I'm such an idiot for doing this...

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    • I'm such an idiot for doing this...

      I installed the neutrino block this weekend, setup the halo kit, and also the bypass headlight kit. It took me hours, but in the end, it's all worth it. I was so happy that I can finally turn off my headlights and power on the halo. While turning on and off the the SS to acc mode, I tried to start up the SS to take it for a ride, then all I kept hearing is a "tick tick" sound.

      Then, I saw a red light battery icon shows on the dash. That's when I knew I messed up so bad..... i thought I forgot to hook up the battery all the way. Tried to start it up again, and same results... This time, I kept it in acc mode, and went to my neutrino black box to see what the current voltage. My jaws dropped when it showed 10.5V. =O

      So I disconnected the battery, got my battery tender JR, and it's been charging for about 24 hours. From what I could remember, from a dead battery like this, it takes about 40-50 hours to fully charge it, but that's when I was charging a motorcycle battery before.

      I'll wait it out for another day.. my SS is almost 2 years old this october.. is it worth waiting to fully charge this battery, or should I just go ahead and buy a new battery?
    • War Hoop wrote:

      If your battery was just fine before you started this project you probably screwed something else up unless you ran the battery down testing it. I really hate electronics so I don't mess with it unless I have to.
      If it’s an optima battery you’re screwed....make sure the terminals aren’t corroded ?
      You might have something hooked up to the neutrino that stays hot and draining power with the key off.

      Check the neutrino settings to make sure you have everything set to go off with the key...
    • War Hoop wrote:

      If your battery was just fine before you started this project you probably screwed something else up unless you ran the battery down testing it. I really hate electronics so I don't mess with it unless I have to.
      My battery was completely fine. I forgot I had it on Acc mode for about a half an hour or so, and a few times turning it on and off.

      Bigdog wrote:

      War Hoop wrote:

      If your battery was just fine before you started this project you probably screwed something else up unless you ran the battery down testing it. I really hate electronics so I don't mess with it unless I have to.
      If it’s an optima battery you’re screwed....make sure the terminals aren’t corroded ?You might have something hooked up to the neutrino that stays hot and draining power with the key off.

      Check the neutrino settings to make sure you have everything set to go off with the key...
      It's not the optima yellow battery. I still have the stock battery in place, all the terminals from the SS are clean since I have been messing around with it all weekend. When I get back from work tomorrow, I'll put the battery back and start it up again and check the voltage in the neutrino box.

      If I may ask, why would it be screwed if it's an optima battery?
    • If the voltage drops too low (below 9.5 volts) you need a special proceedure involving hooking up another battery and charger to the optima and hours to revive it. They also require a special battery charger...and they don’t last any longer than any other battery.... too expensive for a pain in the ass...been there and done that ....once...never again.
    • Bigdog wrote:

      If the voltage drops too low (below 9.5 volts) you need a special proceedure involving hooking up another battery and charger to the optima and hours to revive it. They also require a special battery charger...and they don’t last any longer than any other battery.... too expensive for a pain in the ass...been there and done that ....once...never again.
      that’s only for an optimal battery right? cuz this is the one I have. Hopefully, it has enough charge or shows full charge by tomorrow afternoon.

      The voltage on mine didn’t drop that low, it was reading 10.5 to 10.6 last time I have it hooked up.

    • MrGrey wrote:

      Bigdog wrote:

      If the voltage drops too low (below 9.5 volts) you need a special proceedure involving hooking up another battery and charger to the optima and hours to revive it. They also require a special battery charger...and they don’t last any longer than any other battery.... too expensive for a pain in the ass...been there and done that ....once...never again.
      that’s only for an optimal battery right? cuz this is the one I have. Hopefully, it has enough charge or shows full charge by tomorrow afternoon.
      The voltage on mine didn’t drop that low, it was reading 10.5 to 10.6 last time I have it hooked up.


      That's the problem with these new fangled BS electronic systems, If it drops below a certain voltage (like 12 volts) it won't start because the ECM won't let it. In any vehicle without an ECM and it will start right up with 12 volts. ECM's are just expensive electronic bullshit.
    • I'm such an idiot for doing this...

      I went through 2 of those crappy OEM batteries in less than 2 years. First one lasted less than 1 year and the second one lasted about 7 months ( one month past the warranty period). Replaced with larger battery with 3 year warranty. I have very little add on lights and only stock radio. That OEM battery is too small even for cranking. It doesn’t even have the recommended cranking amps that the owners manual recommends. Shouldn’t even be in the Slingshot.


      Sent from my iPhone using Polaris Slingshot Info
      Jerry Hatley
      Dallas, Texas

      The post was edited 1 time, last by Dochatley ().

    • Dochatley wrote:

      I went through 2 of those crappy OEM batteries in less that 2 years. First one lasted less than 1 year and the second one lasted about 7 months ( one month past the warranty period). Replaced with larger battery with 3 year warranty. I have very little add on lights and only stock radio. That OEM battery is too small even for cranking. It doesn’t even have the recommended cranking amps that the owners manual recommends. Shouldn’t even be in the Slingshot.


      Sent from my iPhone using Polaris Slingshot Info
      Is it car battery size or motorcycle size? Our motor is twice the size of a Harley motor because they use them in cars....so why wouldn’t you want a car battery in your SS....if I bought an SS with the motorcycle size battery that’s the first mod I would make.... a car battery..
    • Bigdog wrote:

      Dochatley wrote:

      I went through 2 of those crappy OEM batteries in less that 2 years. First one lasted less than 1 year and the second one lasted about 7 months ( one month past the warranty period). Replaced with larger battery with 3 year warranty. I have very little add on lights and only stock radio. That OEM battery is too small even for cranking. It doesn’t even have the recommended cranking amps that the owners manual recommends. Shouldn’t even be in the Slingshot.


      Sent from my iPhone using Polaris Slingshot Info
      Is it car battery size or motorcycle size? Our motor is twice the size of a Harley motor because they use them in cars....so why wouldn’t you want a car battery in your SS....if I bought an SS with the motorcycle size battery that’s the first mod I would make.... a car battery..
      now that you mention it... the battery size seems to be in the medium size. A car battery being the largest, and a motorcycle battery would be the smallest.

      I was surprised to see it in a weird size, I was expecting to see a full car battery in there when I took off the cover.

      Anyway, I agree since the SS uses a 2.4 engine, shouldn’t they use a regular car battery on it, and should also add traction to the back.

      However, lurking around here for the past few years or so, I noticed more people having problems with an upgraded battery (optima).

      There doesn’t seem to be another vendor that offers a quality battery.
    • MrGrey wrote:

      this is the first time i’m hearing about this. So, ECM has something to do with this as well.
      I had a 1999 Chevy and it cranked over real good but would not start... (think ECM) Jump start and it cranked right up. You can be .1 volt below ECM specs and it will not start even if it turns over real good.
    • If anyone lives near a Rural King Farm/Ag supply store, they have reasonably priced Group 34 AGM batteries, but if you have the smaller battery Polaris started shipping in mid 2016, you'll need a larger battery mount from SlingMods or DIY a custom mount.
    • BKL wrote:

      If anyone lives near a Rural King Farm/Ag supply store, they have reasonably priced Group 34 AGM batteries, but if you have the smaller battery Polaris started shipping in mid 2016, you'll need a larger battery mount from SlingMods or DIY a custom mount.
      The Group 25 is a better fit. It is one inch shorter in length than the 34 if you are running the Welter exhaust

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