Stock eco tech handles 500hp ?

    I’ve been planning out my SS and obviously like lots of us I get ahead and sometimes a yr or so down the road in planning out our dream toys...
    While looking at engines and turbos ,as most know 275-maybe 300rwhp is the max a stock 2:4 can handle..the next step is the gen 3 instead of going back to the gen1 Ecotec ..
    While reading threads on websites from Ecotec builders for cars as well as SS ,ZZ performance has written on their website that a stock GEn3 eco tech can handle 500hp on boost without any mods to the engine...which come to 430rwhp with the approximate 14% loss at the rear wheels..
    So I guess my question is has anyone seen any prove of this,? As that long block is less than $2k new and as low as a grand used with low miles on them..if it worked seems like a cheap way to make huge power while saving 3-4K..
    ? Or is this a case where only the block is a direct swap.. obviously anything can be drop in as prof by the LS V-8’s running around..


    Could you just image a stock 3.5 eco boost twin turbo in a SS..AS IVE SEEN the crate eco boost putting down so much torque in stock form in a mustang it had to be De-tuned..like over 600rwTq @3000rpm and 500rwtq @ 1800 rpm and that’s with the gen one..rated at 420tq at 2500rpm in the f150..
    I’ve seen stock F150’s with the GEN2 eco3.5 running 11sec 1/4 mile with just a tune and a air filter..man with slicks on a SS quad talk about needing wheelie bars,lol..

    Have you thought about going to a Honda S2000? There are a couple already out there and if I'm not mistaken, Jamie had his tuned on a dyno at over 700 HP. The weak link at that power was the clutch. I'm sure it's been road tested and perfected as well as our own Mark aka STICKERDICK who is going to be leading the group attempt to see who has the fastest slingshot on a closed 1/2 course in October

    Nobody gets outta here ALIVE

    @Slingrazor has gotten pretty high... Supercharged though, but still stock engine for the most part...


    Wow, just edited this as I'm not sure why "hasn't" was originally there, when I meant "has"... Speed typing and autoprediction I guess...


    Sorry Trent!


    Edited once, last by MiM ().

    You would be surprised at what a stock 2.4 can handle with a blower. The numbers I have posted in the past are lower than I can post. Just to say, the dyno sheet makes everyone's assumptions of what a stock motor can take look weak.
    One day I will post.
    For those who dont know me, I am fact based and dont make assumptions from theories.

    Quote from Slingrazor

    You would be surprised at what a stock 2.4 can handle with a blower. The numbers I have posted in the past are lower than I can post. Just to say, the dyno sheet makes everyone's assumptions of what a stock motor can take look weak.
    One day I will post.
    For those who dont know me, I am fact based and dont make assumptions from theories.

    What are you running ?

    From what I understand, the Gen 3 block mainly provides rigidity to the cylinders by including metal connections between the cylinders and the engine block. The stock LE5 engine that comes in the Slingshot does NOT have this additional reinforcing material and also lacks forged rods that were used on the pre-2008 (or so era) or would typically be used on a built-for-boost engine. According to DDm Works. the less expensive rods used in the Slingshot version of the LE5 are limited to around 75 HP per cylinder, meaning as a boosted stock Slingshot engine approaches 300 HP or around 260 HP at the rear wheels (+/-) the chances of damaging your engine increase. Any particular stock engine may run for an extended period of time at HP levels above that, but just about any stock engine will eventually break at higher HP levels. The cheapest way to try to hit HP numbers over 300 would be to find a used pre-2008 LE5 motor in the best condition you can locate. While such an early LE5 would not have the reinforced cylinder walls, plenty of built-for-boost 300+ HP engines have been based on these early motors.
    You might get lucky and have a boosted stock Slingshot engine last at least for a while running 300+ HP, but I'd only risk it if I was also trying to save up money for a built-for-boost engine and couldn't wait to get boosted.

    the Procharger looks like a well built kit..although I think I’d like to see a way to direct the air in while keeping some of that heat from transferring into the air filter..that said at speed it may not make that much difference I’ve just always been a fan of a good intake system,it probably wouldn’t take much from one of the skilled guys on the forum..
    It claims +55% increase at 8psi with its boxed tuning,and offers more with additional aftermarket tuning and boost..so about 270 hp@8psi..means the kits are all pretty close the main difference im guessing is just the curve and how it comes in..although I think DDM said 8psi should equal 80hp and this kit claims 96hp @8psi..


    One thing I like about Procharger is that you can order a I-Charger which allows you to have the tune ability on the fly like a turbo gives you and more..they have a onscreen programmer which allows the boost to be tuned every 500rpm as well as having 4-5 set maps for just cruising along with good mpg up to all out racing and good up to 800-850hp..not saying it will make that much on the SS ..
    I’ve also seen a kit they set up like a turbo using the smaller pulley and two blow off’s like a turbo to give Control over boost on the fly..


    That’s my main like on turbos that your able to hammer it hard on low boost and not worry about wear and tear ,and then turn it up and really go nuts when your at the track..

    I'm not familiar with the ProCharger/I-Charger stuff, but keep in mind that the Slingshot uses an encrypted ECU.
    I believe these are the current options available to Slingshot owners -
    Bob from MEFIBurn (OBD Diagnostics) is the only person out there who offers tunes supporting the major boost kits available for the Slingshot. They also offer an option to monitor, but not change, the Slingshot ECU (OBD Diagnostics).
    CBM Motorsports offers a kit that allows you to tune your Slingshot ECU (CBM Motorsports OnLine Store). I believe it is coded to only work on your specific ECU, but codes are available for toher ECUs at additional cost.
    Haltech (Haltech – Engine Management Systems » Blog Archive Product Overview: Polaris Slingshot Plug'n'Play Adaptor - Haltech - Engine Management Systems) offers a replacement ECU that is OBDII-compliant and allows tuning, but their solution is currently the most expensive.

    From what I read the ProCharger kit comes with away to tune the ecm yourself with their can tune so it’s a plug and play tune.
    Although if you want more power I’m sure it’s like any other system you have to have a shop custom tune it probably from scratch ...
    Now when you say encrypted What do you mean ? It’s some how different from other GM OBD2 ecm’s which are also locked and require the purchase of a license to get the software to tune the ecm ?
    if not using a canned programmer ...


    From what I read is it’s a marine based ecm ...
    It just limited to a few software platforms..
    I read HP TUNERS may be releasing software or has already...
    It just sucks that there isn’t any programmers like they sell for cars which allow multiple tunes and the ability to monitor the system..
    I sure am enjoying having a completely new platform ive never worked on from a performance stand point to learn about ...as I have built and worked on many older gen1 motors in cars :.

    Quote from Gnx1234

    What are you running ?

    DDM SC that I ran at 330 HP at the rear for 20000 miles. That HP has been higher for the past 2 months.
    You have to remember a SC properly configured puts less stress on an
    engine for a given HP than a TC. The SC does not hit its max HP until it is at the redline, this puts less stress on the internals than an TC which brings on power early when the RPM is low.
    At this point, no one has been able to tune the ECU on the fly. The ECU in our sling is not like a typical car ECU, but more of a marine. Bob is the only one, working with DDM (or CBM Motorsports) on their dyno, to provide tunes for us. There are piggyback tuners that have been used, but the have not been used very much. As stated earlier, if you desire to adjust your own turne, purchase a Haltech system from @oneshot.

    I just can’t wait to get started although I have to sell my tank first but I’m not willing to take a hit on it just to do this..
    So while I save for parts and plan it out hopefully I will get it sold for what I’m asking which will give me enough to build most of the project .
    ...
    There’s nothing better than starting a new project which you know your going to love and have as much fun building it as you do driving it...