Max number of things hooked directly to battery?

  • Some links on selecting a proper fuse for a circuit -


    Fuse Sizing - Learning Center - Powerlet Products


    How to Determine the Fuse/Wire Size for YOUR Project | Top Forum Picks - Oznium Blog


    Generally speaking, a 10A fuse should handle an 11A load for a much longer time than it could handle a 13A load without blowing. The extra time to blow prevents people from blowing fuses by accident. For example, an 18ga wire can handle a load of 15A, but for safety reasons, its practical current load is only around 8A. An 8A heating vest could be fused for 10A and could be wired with an 18ga wire, but the vest will produce more heat if the circuit uses a 16 or 14ga wire since there will be less voltage drop due to the wire's resistance. Think of it as a larger diameter hose allows more water to flow through it than a smaller diameter hose. Even though the 16 or 14 ga wire can handle a higher current load, the circuit in this case should still be fused for 10A since that is the closest fuse size for that load. The heavier wire reduces the chance of the circuit overheating and the 10A fuse will do a better job of protecting the heating vest since it only needs 8A power. Even though the wire size might support a larger current load, running a 15A fuse might mean the heating vest could be exposed to higher power levels than it is designed for. This why a circuit should be fused for an expected load, but the wiring should be sized for the next higher load as a safety precaution.


    Circuit sizing is a subjective area, which might help explain why Polaris originally used a 20A relay "protected" by a 30A breaker to handle all 4 headlights ( 2 x 65W center headlights + 2 x 55W for the outer auxiliary headlights) which presented a cumulative load of 240W which is pretty much at the limit for a 20A circuit. Add in the extra power to keep the high beam shutter powered out of the way and the circuit is at the ragged edge of safety. If someone was running all 6 halogen headlights on the same circuit, they were definitely asking for trouble (LED bulbs have a much lower current draw and would have been within limits even with 6 normal strength LED bulbs).The bean-counters may have said everything was still within acceptable design constraints, but the real-world showed otherwise, so the circuit was redesigned. In my case, I switched to LED bulbs and rewired the outer auxiliary headlights to run off the Fog Light circuit, effectively giving me a separate circuit for each set of headlights, even when running the Canadian Headlights for a total of 6 headlights.


    For more info, try Googling for "automotive wire size vs current load"

    Edited once, last by BKL ().

  • I currently have a fuse box and air horn hooked directly to the battery. Need to add one more item, a jump port.


    (Yes I know this can be done under the hood but I don’t want to attempt that since I have very little electrical/safety knowledge.)


    Feedback on this? Thanks

    Instead of running a bunch of wires to the battery itself, you can hook them to the terminal post on the other end of the red wire. That way you don't have to mess with a bunch of wire terminals every time you disconnect the battery.

  • Instead of running a bunch of wires to the battery itself, you can hook them to the terminal post on the other end of the red wire. That way you don't have to mess with a bunch of wire terminals every time you disconnect the battery.

    Using the red terminal on the alternator has the advantage of supplying power only when the engine is on.


  • I purchased the slingmods one that goes behind the driver's seat. I know Snazzy's video says you can put it under the hood. I don't feel knowledgeable enough doing that, and when I brought it to the Polaris dealer they didn't know how to do that either and didn't want to. So I intend to just put it behind the seat as slingmods shows.


    It is sooooo easy to put under the hood. Watch Sams video. Shows you every step of the way.



    Sent from my iPhone using Polaris Slingshot Forum mobile app

    Dochatley
    Dallas, Texas

  • I ran one big fat wire from the battery to under the hood



    The fat wire comes in at the top into the circuit breaker, then to distribution block, the to aux standard fuse box and to the neutrino. I’m going to control each heated item separately.

  • Using the red terminal on the alternator has the advantage of supplying power only when the engine is on.

    That's the one I used for my horn power, but for the battery tender and jumper posts I used the post that the battery wire goes to. It seemed easier to reach than the battery itself

  • Great advice, thank you! That would be the worst thing... drilling the holes too close and then what?!


    ONE MORE QUESTION EVERYONE: in researching I just learned that I cannot hook my battery tender/heated gear port up to my FZ-1 accessory fuse block because it will need 15 amps. So that too has to go directly to the battery. That's 4 things.


    Still OK?

    Check Amazon for fuse panels/blocks that will work, they are there and a lot cheaper also.

  • It is sooooo easy to put under the hood. Watch Sams video. Shows you every step of the way.



    Yes it looks easy. But, installing it that way exposes an uncovered "hot" bolt to the engine bay on the bottom side of the positive jump port. No way to cover that bolt. In his video Snazzy talks about the importance of keeping the rubber boot on the jump port, but the exposed bottom of the port is live...

  • OK gang, it's been a while since I have bombarded you with questions............


    My Neutrino Aurora Black Box is in. I will be replacing my FZ-1 fuse block that someone else installed for me.


    I read the yellow wire has to be scotchloked to a lead that is on with ignition. Where and what please :)


    Also, I believe the FZ fuse block tapped into the 12-volt wire that goes to the glove box 12 volt. Maybe I can use that tap - not sure if that is always on or only on with ignition. Gotta research that.

  • Now what am I missing? My FZ has slots for positive and negative on opposite sides of the block. I'm looking at the Neutrino now... one slot only. How does that work? (Sung to the Wizard of Oz Tune "if I only had a brain...")


  • That’s true. The underside is uncovered. Just like a positive battery post under the hood in a car. Just like the hot cable running to the starter. Just like the positive cable that hooks to your battery. All exposed in one way or the other. But, Nothing touches it. So, nothing is going to happen. UNLESS, someone does something stupid and none of us ever does that. All jump ports are going to have a “hot bolt” going to it ( at least I think they have to).



    Sent from my iPhone using Polaris Slingshot Forum mobile app

    Dochatley
    Dallas, Texas

  • I have the hot and ground jump ports installed behind my seat, in front of th battery....


    After what I just encountered I wish I would have installed the one under the hood....the studs are rotating...even after tightening up the lock nuts. I don’t want to keep tightening them because the teeth on then is digging into the plastic.


    Just my observation and advice...I actually think they are a good idea, but ......