ZZPerformance Turbo Kit!!!!!

Quote from Gnx1234

Pretty cool ..so as most kits I’ve seen have been 4500-6k how are you doing it for half price,?
Which turbos are you using, and are they oil!or water cooled ? Bearing info extra..what options. And is this what you would consider your base kit ? ..CAC IN HOUSE OR,?
I’ve always loved turbos having had 3 Gn’s and A twin v6 now..
While I know we are dealing with 1700lbs by car standards it’s nothing ,how is the lag,? I’ve never ran a 4cyl turbo..so.
I know it’s a lot to ask...your Honesty In your last reply was not unnoticed which has peaked interest and the reason for the million questions..
How much is install,? Tune etc. thks..

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@Gnx1234 We manufacturer the majority of the kits here in house which keeps costs down so in turn we pass the savings on to the consumer. We have been doing that since we started doing business in 2000. Our mantra is "Go Fast, Not Broke." The turbos are private labeled made for us by a major turbo manufacturer. We tell them what we want and they make it. The turbos are ball bearing and can be cooled by both oil and water. The kit sets it up as oil only but there are accommodations to where you could add water cooling as well. If you decided to order a kit, you can ask us for fittings and we will include them at no charge. I run both on mine. They are similar to the Garrett GT series turbos. They are a little larger than a K04 turbo on a chevy cobalt.

I guess you could call this a base kit but there are no options at this time. We may offer options in the future but for now, the kit comes as advertised. As far as lag, there is almost none to be honest. In regards to tuning, that is included in the price of the kit. Install time is typically about 8hrs. Our shop rate is $100/hr so about $800. If you came for an install and wanted it dialed in on our dyno there would be an additional $250-$300. However, with the install, we will take it out on the street and verify the tune and make any adjustments if needed but it likely will not need any. We have spent a decent amount of time on this tune both on the dyno and data logging my 1/4 mile and 1/2 mile runs for fine tuning. If you have any other questions please let me know.

Quote from maverick5990

Or any aftermarket exhaust for that matter. Mine is not a Welter but I'm not willing to scrap it ($850) for a turbo charger.

Quote from SSREAPER

Welter Dual rear 2.5" exhaust here as well!

SSREAPER

I'm sure we will look into it. I'm not going to tell you it's going to happen because I cannot guarantee that but I can guarantee that it will be discussed. Part of how we keep down consumer costs and ensure everything works as it should and all the parts are happy and play well together is by manufacturing our own parts and offer 100% complete kits. We are still a very small company of only 50 employees so just diving into the pool and buying one of each available cat back out there for the SS and coming up with a way to connect them to our turbo kit just isn't feasible from a business stand point at this time. Welter would likely be the first one we look at as that seems to be one of the more popular cat backs among the SS community. @maverick5990 If you've not yet rode in a turbo slingshot, you may change your mind about selling that exhaust once you do.

Quote from MiM

Okay... Blown engines and need for gauges?

I'm leaning towards supercharger because I'm a bit more careless revving, shifting, etc, and feel it's safer... Plus gauges not needed...

At 6psi, blowing an engine is not a concern. You're well within the safety margins in all aspects. In regards to gauges, if you want my honest opinion, you should be monitoring certain parameters in any forced induction application. Especially, if that application was not previously forced induction to begin with like our SSs. I run 2 gauges. An AEM water temp gauge because the idiot lights are the size of a pin head and I did not realize I had lost coolant out of a prototype part until I put my foot to the floor and the SS got really pissed off and went into limp mode. I looked down and the coolant temp light was flashing which I did not notice because it was high noon. I also run an AEM failsafe gauge which monitors boost and AFR. It also stores 2-3hrs worth of data logging. I also run my kit at 9psi so the nice thing about the failsafe is if my AFR gets to an unsafe limit, preset by me, while doing a pull it will cut boost.

@iNewton has a thread about installing gauges on the SS which is 2nd to none. It's what I used to install my failsafe. I did a couple things differently to work for me but he lays out all the wiring and where to tap into perfectly.

@jookyone also shared a template in another thread for setting up the screen on the AEM data logging software so you only see what is usable on the SS. I use that preset template for all my log analyzing.

As far as being careless revving, that's what the rev limiter is for. And so far in my experience, regardless of which route you go with forced induction, if you're still running the stock PCM and not a stand alone like the Haltech 1500, the SS tends to get a little pissed off when shifting over 7000RPMs.

The supercharger route is no more safe than the turbo route. But I'm also a turbo guy. I totally get why people like superchargers and they are really fun to drive. But these are just my personal opinions. At the end of the day, you should purchase whatever you will feel more comfortable with regardless if it is a kit from ZZP or another vendor.

Quote from SSREAPER

@MiM @MrGrey

I am by no means a forced induction expert but in my opinion ...Super chargers are indeed safer than a turbo for people who dont know how they work. The superchargers air induction is in direct alignment with engine rpm...the numbers are repeatable. At a specific RPM you have a specific amount of air being induced. The only way it changes is if you change the pulley on the supercharger. When the kit is designed, it is designed with the safety limits of the engine taken into consideration. There is no need for gauges although having them just to keep an eye on things is a great idea.

Turbos rely on the exhaust to spool it and drive it and that alone introduces variables. Being able to have a controller to change boost levels introduces another set of variables. Variables on top of variables on top of variables creates a situation where one thing goes out of whack and the whole equations goes to hell. If you like to fiddle and know what your doing... turbos are great

That to me is a factor to turbo or to supercharge.

Now 2 things... 1:If I am wrong then @Dave@DDMWorks who is considered to be the master of BOTH systems please educate me.
2: Nowhere did I say one was better than another so dont go there!!

SSREAPER

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The only comment I have on this is that on our kit, boost is regulated by the waste gate spring. You cannot physically make more boost than what the spring in the waste gate will allow you to make. Sure you could raise the boost level by either adding a manual boost controller, which we do not have in our kit, or by changing the spring in the waste gate to a heavier spring, but then you're taking the kit outside of what we designed it to do and then yes, problems could arise.

@War Hoop while I cannot comment on other companies times and rates, for our kit specifically it's about an 8hr install. Our shop rate is $100/hr so about $800 for install. As far as the gauges, it really all depends on what gauge you are installing. My water temp gauge took me an hour but the failsafe took 3hrs. That probably could've taken 2 but I'm really anal retentive about things and how clean the install looks. I solder and heat shrink all my connections and then it all goes in wire loom which is taped off in certain spots and then the entire route is zip tied into place. So just in labor, if you did the same setup as I did you would be looking at somewhere around the $1100 - $1200USD mark.

Quote from MrGrey

so we’re looking at $3k for parts + $1.2k for labor, estimated to $4.2k altogether... not bad at all..

@MrGrey If you were also doing gauges it would the $4.2k plus the cost of gauges. The failsafe is $300 and the temp gauge is $175 which would put you closer to $4.7k But if you are just doing the kit and install here at ZZP you'd be looking at about $3,974.69 out the door including MI 6% sales tax on just the hard parts.