Oversteer and understeer

Quote from TravAZ

The Slingshot has huge oversteer issues because of the lack of rear traction, especially when accelerating out of a corner after the apex. This is why the traction control / stability control is so important on this vehicle.

With both nannies on and functioning, the vehicle is pretty neutral though. It is dang near impossible to get a Slingshot to understeer. You rarely see understeer, but when really pushing hard, you see oversteer issues quite frequently.

Luckily, most people will never drive their Slingshots hard enough to have to worry about either one...

In the track video below, I am running traction control off and stability control on. Even is this configuration, you can see how careful I am on throttle control out of the corners to make sure I don't have a bunch of oversteer on every corner exit.

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I suppose tires and set up among other things have an effect on whether it under steers or over steers but my experience so far has been exactly opposite to yours. Then again, I haven't had mine on a road course track either.

Tires are important, but more importantly to this conversation is if you have the traction control and/or stability control on or off. The nannies are very aggressive in not allowing oversteer. With both systems on, you will likely see understeer before oversteer.

I almost always run with the traction control off, as I believe you get the best overall performance and experience. It allows you to spin in a straight line, but the Stability Control function is still there and will cut power and work the front brakes when your spinning the rear tire and the steering angle is past a certain parameter. This allows the Slingshot to have some rear tire spin, but still the safety of working to prevent you from spinning out.

Run both systems off and the machine is even faster as nothing is interfeering, but you better make sure you are a really good driver and accept the strong possibility that you will spin out. Its pretty much a donut machine at this point with really good tires and nice roads.

DIY Alignment Guide - How To Adjust Caster - Hot Rod - Hot Rod Network

Bill

Quote from Bigdog

Ok, I understand the procedure but where are the adjustment points?

Caster and camber adjusts where #2 & #3 bolt on? Is this where the shims add or remove? And if so where do you get the correct shims?

On the toe adjustment...is it at the end of the tie rod or under the boots?

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The shims would need to be ordered from Polaris. They come in 1, 10, or 20mm thicknesses. They are located where #2 bolts to the frame. Not sure about the tie rod adjustment points.
Here's a link to the shim part numbers OEM Service & Replacement Parts | Polaris Slingshot Store

Oh boy... This is going to get interesting real fast.

Yes. Shims can be removed and moved to other areas that need them. As far as sourcing shims, I have not seen info on this. Maybe some really old stuff out there on the OG site.

The end of the tie rods has the adjusting nuts you are looking for.

if you really want to play with the camber you should get these - TruHart Front Upper Control Arms for the Polaris Slingshot

Quote from Bigdog

Ok, I understand the procedure but where are the adjustment points?

Caster and camber adjusts where #2 & #3 bolt on? Is this where the shims add or remove? And if so where do you get the correct shims?

On the toe adjustment...is it at the end of the tie rod or under the boots?

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YOU DO UNDERSTAND THAT IF YOU DO NOT HAVE A WAY TO CONSISTENTLY AND ACCURATELY TAKE THE MEASUREMENTS (EYEBALLING IT WONT WORK) MEASUREMENTS THAT YOU CAN REPEAT AGAIN AND AGAIN...YOU WILL SCREW THING UP DRASTICALLY!!!

Dont do whatever it is you are thinking of doing!! I am trying to save you from creating a can of worm problems you dont want to experience.

Consider yourself warned!

SSREAPER

Quote from SSREAPER

YOU DO UNDERSTAND THAT IF YOU DO NOT HAVE A WAY TO CONSISTENTLY AND ACCURATELY TAKE THE MEASUREMENTS (EYEBALLING IT WONT WORK) MEASUREMENTS THAT YOU CAN REPEAT AGAIN AND AGAIN...YOU WILL SCREW THING UP DRASTICALLY!!!
Dont do whatever it is you are thinking of doing!! I am trying to save you from creating a can of worm problems you dont want to experience.

Consider yourself warned!

SSREAPER

So I believe the question was caster. It's well known that the Slingshot has zero caster. Hence the neutral steering that has no return to center with the steering wheel. Otter Mod #? on the early forum explained how to switch the shims to attain positive caster on the front end and, therefore, return to center with the wheel. I do believe that @BryanL was one to do this mod. He still hasn't let me drive his Sling but when I do I'll report from somewhere in Mejico!

Quote from Bigdog

Ok, does this mean on one wheel or both wheels together?

Front wheel toe.... is it 1/4” per wheel or 1/8” on each?

That would be .25 total toe so .125 each side maximum .... .09 minimum each side

Note to self: Do your research when responding to @Bigdog. OK, it's not zero. My bad. The important info is that the steering does not return to center from a turn. But you know that...

You'll experience a pretty good wobble and poor steering response once you go too far. Hopefully you're just asking about this and not doing anything other than setting the toe and let it go. No disrespect meant, but it doesn't sound like you're possessing road racing skills to the point that your seat of the pants can tell ANY front end changes until you go over the top

I have a laser alignment system for the SS. It sets toe using a target at 114 inches from hub center. The longer distance allows for a more accurate setting. Without these tools I wouldn't mess with the alignment.