Wow. Our dealer, Owen Motorsports, in Charleston IL, is fantastic. Adam is he service manager, Holly always calls me back and Jeremee is the tech who knows more than a Polaris engineer!!
I can call and talk to jeremee, explain the issue then that gets translated to Adam who then works with me to get parts ordered then I drive 3 hours for my appointment. Always awesome service!!!
Must be something wrong with the local dealer here...…...They don't mind you waiting you browse around the showroom for an hour and maybe buy something. More $$$ in their pocket.
My dealer will let you make an appointment but they keep a lock on the mechanic doors, they don't want anybody back there for any reason. You deal with the service person only.
I have an issue with that because the problem doesn’t usually get communicated to the actual mechanic properly and then you get it back without the problem being fixed. You tell it to the no nothing service guy and he writes down his translation of the problem and he usually isn’t even close to what’s really going on.
I have an issue with that because the problem doesn’t usually get communicated to the actual mechanic properly and then you get it back without the problem being fixed. You tell it to the no nothing service guy and he writes down his translation of the problem and he usually isn’t even close to what’s really going on.
Call them up and ask to speak to the tech on the phone. I have been able to communicate directly with the tech that way if he is busy when I drop off my machine. I understand not interrupting him for every drop off. My dealer only has one Slingshot tech and he keeps very busy.
Not sure how much I can contribute here, but here I go.
My angle drive crapped on itself a while ago. Sounded like I had gravel in the transmission. Sounded like I had no wheels, and was being dragged. Took 2 freakin' months to get a replacement, during perfect riding season. Still sore 'bout that.
As it was 'splained to me, when the angle drive shits its pants, it throws off the geometry of the whole rear end - causing other problems. Angle drive repair included a new belt (which was started to get chewed up), new sprocket (I think), new swing arm bearings - which also includes the axle. Maybe some other stuff.
All good now, and I didn't have to overnight my baby at anytime. Was told to drive the snot out of it anyway, which I did - just not far from home...
A good dealer is priceless, and can fix the OP's problem. Hope still under warranty. These kinds of problems can get really spendy really fast.
Display MoreMy dealer has a sign saying all vehicles must be dropped off...no waiting for service....meaning you just can’t drive in and get something fixed.....mine spent more time outside their garage (days) than inside...
Kinda makes you wonder why? No, it does not!
Not enough people that know what to Do? I doubt that!
Something To Hide? I doubt that!
Can’t predict how much time it will take to make the repairs.....Depending on the diagnosis tis could be true, we just left our Jetta for a week at a very reputable shop so they could track down a mysterious issue..
no inventory of spare parts so they wait for them all to come from Polaris...No dealer of any vehicle carries every part, just not realistic...........
Having had worked as a mechanic in my younger years I can fully understand why a service department would try to keep some folks out................ 
Bill
Display MoreNot sure how much I can contribute here, but here I go.
My angle drive crapped on itself a while ago. Sounded like I had gravel in the transmission. Sounded like I had no wheels, and was being dragged. Took 2 freakin' months to get a replacement, during perfect riding season. Still sore 'bout that.
As it was 'splained to me, when the angle drive shits its pants, it throws off the geometry of the whole rear end - causing other problems. Angle drive repair included a new belt (which was started to get chewed up), new sprocket (I think), new swing arm bearings - which also includes the axle. Maybe some other stuff.
All good now, and I didn't have to overnight my baby at anytime. Was told to drive the snot out of it anyway, which I did - just not far from home...
A good dealer is priceless, and can fix the OP's problem. Hope still under warranty. These kinds of problems can get really spendy really fast.
I would have ordered the part from a online Polaris parts place...gave it to the dealer to install and let them keep the new one when it comes....surely should have saved at least a month...of riding..
When i had my gas pedal issue the mechanic didn’t know the symptom until we talked and I explained it to him face to face and told him how to duplicate the issue. He didn’t get it from the written work order.
Well, this looked like an already handy spot to post my question. When I initially adjust the alignment on our belt, I adjust it to the inside while turning the wheel by hand and leaving enough gap to see the teeth. When I take the SlingShot out for a ride and pull over, the belt will be pretty much center. When I return to the garage and check the alignment again by turning the wheel, it returns to the inside. So, my question is, which position should I be concerned with, adjusting in the garage or adjusting for when on the road?
Thanks,
Bill
It appears that I may have solved my own problem. Some history is that I have been chasing an obnoxious squeal where I have been hoping that it is the belt rather than a bearing. First I tried cleaning the belt, which worked for a while but then the squeal quickly returned. So next I went to the alignment of the belt, where it appeared to be running hard to the inside, so I adjusted that. This was when I noticed the above occurrence where pulling off of the road the belt would be centered. Well, I had one more thing to try, the belt tension. With all of the recommendations of loosening the belt, I had done so to about an 1.25" deflection, today I returned it closer to factory, (0.63"), at 0.9" deflection. Just returned from a test ride where the squeal is now gone and the belt remains to the inside. Let's see how long this works?
Bill
Ok, after a 200+ mile ride yesterday everything seems to have remained just as they should be.......................
Just out of curiosity, with my playing with the belt tension, alignment, and such, has anybody actually had a belt jump off?
Oh, and another curiosity, my maintenance manual states 0.63 inch deflection at ten pounds, where do these figures come from, they sure seem awfully tight?
QuoteFinal Drive Belt tension specifications.
Belt Deflection w/ 10 lbs of pressure rotate tire to the tightest point of the belt for checking tension. Tension is checked at the "V"point of the swingarm opening. That opening you see from the side. Itis about the half halfway point of the belt. Also the closes point the belt comes in close to the swingarm.
New Belt 0.30 in (8 mm)
Used Belt 0.40 in (10 mm)
Bill
Has anyone tried using a bit of Silicone lube spray on the belt ??
one thing to remember ......
WHen the back spring is compressed down the belt gets tighter. And right the opposite...to take the belt off you can disconnect the rear shock and let the swingarm down and the belt will come right off.
I know yall won't belive me.... but it's true. I had the dealer in Athens AL adjust my belt tension in March of 2015. I HAVE NEVER adjusted it since that day. And actually he got it to tight and later that day I moved it back to where it was. So I can say my belt has never been adjusted. She has 30,000 miles on here and I brought the baby home on Haloween 2014.
And remember to always find a flat spot somewhere and check it with the transmission in neutral and the parking brake off. The reason is because you will have the slingshot drivetrain possibly under tension and one side will be tight and the other will be super loose. Just get it where you can move the the top and the bottom of the belt about 1/2 of an inch. If it's so tight you have to mash hard with your finger to deflect it. It's to tight. Especially when you hit a bump. It will get even tighter. ...
I dont think I would put anything on this belt. Its more of a solid hard piece of something that feels like plastic. I have never sprayed anything on the belt. And it looks like new. Just keep it and the sprockets clean with some purple degreaser and an occasional quick car wash spray. Keep the spray toward the belts center and away from the rear sprocket and bearing. Use a water hose to clean that pulley if its dirty. You dont want to get water past the rear axle seal.
and it wont come off accidentally. Like I said. The belt will keep its shape. It's like hard plastic. As long as the belt is on the back sprocket it will stay on. If its loose it may jump teeth under hard acceleration. But it's not going to sling off.
That is very comforting to know, it all basically boils down to that adjusting the rear belt is not an exact science and one can safely do some experimenting without fear of irreparable damage. The only area I may shy away from is getting the belt too tight?
Thanks rabtech!
Bill
In my opinion that is correct. I have not seen a slingshot that was hurt from it being a tiny bit loose. With the exception of hard acceleration ...it may pop over to the next tooth. That would mean you had a flex of more than 1/2" for sure.
Just keep a check on it and if its pretty much in the center and is not popping you got it right...
If you can flex the belt about 1/2 inch on top and bottom with your finger with very little effort then your ok. That means its not to tight.....
As for exact science..... I know the specs and I know how to check it with the tension meter and even a freaking fish scale. The issue with that is it's always a bit different. Depending on how you park, or depending on if the belt is warm, or depending if its in gear of the parking brake is set.
So that is why I just take the toe of my shoe and see if I can easily move it on the top and on the bottom about 1/2". If I can then I just walk on by it. ...
Like I said the rear suspension plays a huge role in the tightness. As the rear lowers down because of weight or because of you adjusting your shock (if you have adjustable shocks) to a weaker position the belt will get tighter. If you disconnect the shock and move the swingarm down you can slide the belt right off.....
