Forced Induction tire / rim selection

  • I've be scouring around looking for what people consider great combinations of tire / rim to hook that extra power up to the pavement.


    The consensus for tire seems to be the NITTO 555 as listed in this poll


    What size rims fit well and perform well for the people that have added the extra horsepower that doesn't throw codes?


    I've seen some people go with a smaller rim in the rear with a higher sidewall on the tire. Some shoehorn a wider tire on a stock rim that may not be safe.


    I don't think going to a huge rim 22" + with an ultra low profile tire is the answer but I might be wrong. I will say I've seen some rather large rear rims damaged with ultra low profile tires by just going down the highway and hitting the seams in the road. Dented the hell out of the rim.


    I'm going to reserve the 2nd post in this thread to be able to summarize the responses for later reference.

    John
    2017 SL LE Midnight Cherry
    :COILOVERSS::TURBOSS::MOTOROILSS::FILTERSS::COLDAIRSS::DONKEYSS:

  • On my 2015 Base, I'm running a Nitto 555 G2 315/35R17 on an American Muscle 10th Anniversary Cobra Style 17 x 10.5 wheel. That's the narrowest wheel Nitto recommends for a 315 tire. 11 is best. The drawback is the 28 mm offset causes the tire to center over 1" to the left. I haven't noticed any handling problems. I'm considering getting a stock rear wheel widened by 1-1.5" and mounting a 305/30R18.
    Somebody else is running a 295/45R?18? tire. Don't remember what size wheel, but he claims the extra sidewall gives more flex for better traction. He had his ECU reflashed to the SL wheel info so his speedo/odometer work properly.

  • I would say your best bet is adding an extra wheel back there, but that's a major mod.


    I think both @MACAWS and @Slingrazor have figured out that they like it best with the smaller wheel/larger sidewall combo. Not sure about their specifics, but the theory makes sense to me. Kind of like watching the funnycars on the dragstrip...when those rear tires wrinkle on the sidewalls, you know they're digging in for max traction with the power going into the wheel.

  • I am running a Michelin Pilot Super Sport 345/35/20 and a Alpha Supercharger. Had these wheels and a couple rear tires on 3 different SS's and no problem with rubbing. The taller sidewall makes for a smoother ride. Running the same brand and sidewall size tires on the fronts 255/35/20. With adjustable shocks you can get a very nice comfortable ride on the highway and no problems playing in the curves when you tighten down the shocks.


  • I am running a Michelin Pilot Super Sport 345/35/20 and a Alpha Supercharger. Had these wheels and a couple rear tires on 3 different SS's and no problem with rubbing. The taller sidewall makes for a smoother ride. Running the same brand and sidewall size tires on the fronts 255/35/20. With adjustable shocks you can get a very nice comfortable ride on the highway and no problems playing in the curves when you tighten down the shocks.

    Nice setup, man. Looks good.


    No issues with the nanny systems with the slightly taller tire?

  • As I mentioned earlier, I currently run a Nitto 555 G2 315/35R17 tire. I think it looks good and with some throttle control, I can start from a stop w/o excessive wheel spin, yet it is way too easy to spin my rear tire in 2nd or 3rd gear. Generally speaking, wider tires bring with them a lighter loading per sq inch of tire footprint. There's a relatively low amount of weight on the rear tire and increasing the tire's width will also bring with it the risk of increasing wheel spin simply because of lighter tire loading per sq inch of contact surface.
    That's probably a contributing factor for those who keep a standard tire width and go to a taller tire feeling it helps their traction.

  • Interesting article regarding tire size: http://www.onallcylinders.com/…/14/drag-slicks-traction/


    Probably most people that have gone the route of SC / TC have most likely upgraded their shocks...
    Anybody have a recommendations for setting up JRi 2 way adjustable shocks for click (ride adjustment) as well as height front to rear to have a nice weight transfer, but also to not adversely effect handling in the twisties?


    Would love to know how some of the big boys like @rabtech gets his major muscle motor to hook up?

    John
    2017 SL LE Midnight Cherry
    :COILOVERSS::TURBOSS::MOTOROILSS::FILTERSS::COLDAIRSS::DONKEYSS:

  • As I mentioned earlier, I currently run a Nitto 555 G2 315/35R17 tire. I think it looks good and with some throttle control, I can start from a stop w/o excessive wheel spin, yet it is way too easy to spin my rear tire in 2nd or 3rd gear. Generally speaking, wider tires bring with them a lighter loading per sq inch of tire footprint. There's a relatively low amount of weight on the rear tire and increasing the tire's width will also bring with it the risk of increasing wheel spin simply because of lighter tire loading per sq inch of contact surface.
    That's probably a contributing factor for those who keep a standard tire width and go to a taller tire feeling it helps their traction.

    interesting, I had never even considered that the lighter loading per sq inch could be enough of a factor to out weigh the benefit of having a larger footprint.

    Cage Free - 2016 Pearl Red SL

    DDM Short Shifter, Sway Bar Mounts Coolant tank Master Cylinder Brace & CAI

    Twist Dynamics Sway Bar, JRI GT Coilovers, Assault Hood Vent

    OEM Double Bubble windshields & various other goodies

  • perhaps someone should invent a system with a cylinder of highly compressed gas like a scuba tank mounted in the passenger storage area with a high pressure line running to a nozzle pointing straight up mounted on the swing arm. Then use an electronically controlled valve tied to the throttle to fully open the tank creating a jet that would put a huge amount of down force on the rear tire until the tank is empty.


    Silly idea, but if it could be done you might be able to greatly increase the rear tire traction for the time it takes to get to a speed without adding weight or creating drag


    I know - probably could never be done or wouldn't work, but it was just a weird idea I got after watching videos on you tube of people knocking the valve off of a scuba tanks and seeing how much force there is and I thought it might be neat if that force could actually be used for something


    scuba tank valve cut off


    As you can tell, when my wife is at work at night I have way too much time on my hands - watching scuba tank videos :S

    Cage Free - 2016 Pearl Red SL

    DDM Short Shifter, Sway Bar Mounts Coolant tank Master Cylinder Brace & CAI

    Twist Dynamics Sway Bar, JRI GT Coilovers, Assault Hood Vent

    OEM Double Bubble windshields & various other goodies