Safe AFR ranges

  • Found the following information on AFR and thought I would share



    When it comes to doing anything performance-related to your car, you have to tune off of several different outputs to create the safest power. The biggest thing you will hear about is the AFR (Air/Fuel Ratio). This is a series of numbers that can determine how the engine is performing. The perfect ratio, or stoichiometric, is 14.7 parts of air to 1 part of fuel. This is the perfect ratio, but it isn’t what we tune to because other ratios create more torque. Stoichiometric means that the burn is theoretically perfect. No oxygen is remaining when the burn is completed. When the burn is stoichiometric there is no o2 and gasoline left, like I said it is a theoretically perfect burn that leaves no traces of the original ingredients in the exhaust. An AFR of 12.2 is best because even though the hotter a gas is the more it expands, there isn’t enough of the ingredients to make a higher pressure. For example, if you filled a balloon with stoic gas (14.7) products vs another balloon with an AFR of 12.2, the balloon with 12.2 actually fills the balloon up more than the stoic because there is more left over gasoline to create higher cylinder pressures.


    6.0 AFR – Rich Burn Limit
    9.0 AFR – Black Smoke / Low Power
    11.5 AFR – Best Rich Torque at Wide Open Throttle
    12.2 AFR – Safe Best Torque at Wide Open Throttle
    13.3 AFR – Best Lean Torque
    14.6 AFR – Stoichiometric AFR (Stoich)
    15.5 AFR – Lean Cruise
    The smaller the number the “richer” the burn is because there is more more fuel in the mixture. The bigger the number the “leaner” the burn is because there is less fuel. A rich burn is cold, it cant burn as much of the mixture due to the amount of the fuel in the ignition charge. It is safer to have a rich mixture rather then a lean mixture. When you have less fuel in the burn it becomes a violent explosion that creates a lot of heat. Running lean is what destroys engines. Once you reach stoichiometric and start to go past it, another reaction begins to occur. As the burn gets hotter the 02 will begin combining with itself and the nitrogen in the air to create O3 and NOx. That is why in the chart above there is a Safe Best Torque number. It is the perfect balance of fuel and air to create optimal SAFE power at wide open throttle with good cylinder pressures.


    Each vehicle uses sensors to run; one of these sensors measures oxygen. Your everyday vehicle’s oxygen sensor is a narrow band which only allows a narrow range of operation with a 0-1 volt range. It’s only function is to sense a stoic scenario. It can sense when it has gone lean or rich, and that tells the ECU to adjust for that setting to bring it back to stoic.


    When you add on a Wide band, it obviously has a wider range of operation, and functions using of a 0-5 volt range. This can sense the exact ratio to a tenth of a degree and is therefore much more accurate.


    However, stoic is different for every fuel. Some fuels may need 14.7 lbs of air some may need 9 lbs of air for a complete burn. Lambda is used to show the air fuel ratio of any fuel. Lambda 1.0 is always the perfect ratio for any fuel in use. A lot of tuners have the lambda converted to the gasoline 14.7:1 because of the common knowledge of that ratio. For those individuals running E85, as an example, their gauge would still read 12.2(.83 lambda) under WOT and full boost even though stoic for E85 is 9:1 which would mean there gauge would read 7.4 (.83 lambda) if set up to read E85.

    John
    2017 SL LE Midnight Cherry
    :COILOVERSS::TURBOSS::MOTOROILSS::FILTERSS::COLDAIRSS::DONKEYSS:

  • Make sure everyone understands this is general information. The Slingshot continues to use the narrow band O2 in boosted setups for feedback to the ECM. AFR numbers are different with each setup and Slingshots tend to be tuned to have richer table than what is referenced above. This is done to give more of a safety net on the stock 2.4 motors that don't really like boost over 8-9lbs.


    AFR numbers are almost always used/quoted when under full pedal and full boost. Don't get too caught up into the numbers when you aren't in that scenario.

    Owner of Slingshot #263 that has some stock parts left on it. :D

    Edited once, last by TravAZ ().

  • Good to know this.
    I sometimes see AFRs at idle in the 19-20 range, but as soon as I start to give it any gas, the AFR drops down to the 12-14 range (usually at the lower end of that range). During engine braking, I sometimes see AFRs as high as 22, which does disturb me somewhat, but again, as soon as I return throttle pressure, the AFR drops down to a more acceptable range.
    I finally got around to hooking up the rpm readout on my SCG-1 AFR/Boost gauge so I can cross-reference the AFR & Boost numbers to my engine rpm. Now if I can just find a better video capture tool than the Xbox recording capability in Windows 10.

  • Good to know this.
    I sometimes see AFRs at idle in the 19-20 range, but as soon as I start to give it any gas, the AFR drops down to the 12-14 range (usually at the lower end of that range). During engine braking, I sometimes see AFRs as high as 22, which does disturb me somewhat, but again, as soon as I return throttle pressure, the AFR drops down to a more acceptable range.
    I finally got around to hooking up the rpm readout on my SCG-1 AFR/Boost gauge so I can cross-reference the AFR & Boost numbers to my engine rpm. Now if I can just find a better video capture tool than the Xbox recording capability in Windows 10.

    Where did you tap in to get the RPM to your AFR?

    John
    2017 SL LE Midnight Cherry
    :COILOVERSS::TURBOSS::MOTOROILSS::FILTERSS::COLDAIRSS::DONKEYSS:

  • Courtesy of @iNewton


    Green : RPM Tap


    In order to read RPM, we must tap a signal wire from a coil. We can tap it at the coil, or at the ECU. I prefer the ECU because less wire lenght means less signal noise and it make the job look better. In order to tap the wire, you will need to unplug the J2 connector from the ECU (the center one), and remove the cover. Be carefull its very fragile. Then you will need to cut a good portion of the tape holding the wires together and the tie-wrap using an exacto. BE VERY CAREFULL TO NOT CUT ANY WIRES DOING THIS. Its best to use a new blade that is very sharp so that you don't have to push hard on the blade and cut something else. Take your time.


    The wire we are looking for is PIN1, its the white wire with a brown line on it.

  • Unlike @TravAZ, I lack the patience to work on one small wire inside a big bundle near the ECU, so I ran a wire inside a plastic wire tube up along the wire harness leading to the front cylinder and ran it back into the wire loom and then shaved some insulation off the White w/brown line wire and tightly wrapped my wire around the area of the wire now exposed on the White/brown wire. I then soldered it for a secure connection and stuck some cardboard behind that wire to protect the other wires and sprayed on some white liquid rubber (PlastiDip) for insulation and waterproofing and let it cure overnight before I wrapped the connection with some electrical tape. I then tucked all of the wires for the front cylinder back in the original factory wire loom/tubing and wrapped the end of the loom to help keep everything dry. See attached pic.

    I used 22 ga solid Bell/Thermostat wire, but I recommend using stranded instead of solid wire to better resist flexing from vibration.
    I had originally planned to use a plastic tap connector, but I didn't feel there was enough room inside the loom for everything to fit. Be careful not to cut thru the very small wire when stripping off the insulation. I nicked one strand but was able to keep it attached and part of the solder connection. I initially tried a small handheld butane torch, but that was too much heat over too wide an area and quickly switched to an electric soldering iron to seal the connection.

  • Solding on a car harness is a bad idea. Should use a good crimp with a joint covered by a dual wall shrink tube that will seal it off from the elements.


    I should have updates my how to, I didn’t know better back then.


    Solder can crack over time and is not friendly with heat cycling especially when the solder is so close to a heat source.


    Would stronly suggest you crimp your ignition wire.


    Notice they never have solder on oem harnesses or race cars anywhere, there is a reason for this.

    Vi Engineered Turbo (V-Mount)
    Forged LE9
    DDM Works Fuel Rail
    RRR Oil Catchcan
    UPLOK + UPGUARD
    Assault Hub / Steering wheel
    DDM Works short shifter
    PRP Shifter Boot
    Cipher Race Seats and 4 point harness
    XO Luxury Verona 20x12 Toyo R888 315/35r20, 19x9.5 Toyo R888 265/35R19
    and more...

  • I was cruising down the super slab today and had the cruise set on 80 for 30+ miles. The afr gauge stayed consistently 12.7 to 12.9 depending on the grade. I suppose that's ok. Wish my drag bike would consistently do that at full throttle through all the gears all the way down the 1/4 but it never happens! LOL


    Tim "Ghost" Ganey
    Winfield, Alabama
    205spam412spam2868