Good deal. A hint on the side panel is, there is a bolt that holds the side panel on that is hidden under the frame tube all the way in the back of the passenger compartment that is not easy to find. You will have to dig the glue out that holds the rubber cover down to get to it to completely remove the side panel out of your way.
Heat shield kit from Polaris
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THX, I have watched the Slingmod video on side panel removal and think I got it. Not looking forward to the radiator shroud install but it is supposed to rain(shower) here for the next 2 days. Perfect time to do this. I plan on doing the muffler tomorrow and radiator the next day since I have no patience according to the wife.
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I had the kit installed on my 2015 at Village Motorsports last week and what a difference. I already had an aftermarket exhaust and Gen 11 mats but the kit has some subtle parts that really help. There is a plate behind the radio now plus more above the hood latches on the passenger side firewall. It also included a new lighter weight battery which I probably could have done without-more weight at the rear the better-but considering the parts were under $140 total it is a good deal and worthy investment in comfort.
Special thanks to the service department at Village for only charging two hours despite having to make some fairly substantial modifications to the heat shield to work with my Full Blown exhaust, and doing so very neatly. If you have a 2015, just do it. -
THX, I have watched the Slingmod video on side panel removal and think I got it. Not looking forward to the radiator shroud install but it is supposed to rain(shower) here for the next 2 days. Perfect time to do this. I plan on doing the muffler tomorrow and radiator the next day since I have no patience according to the wife.
Your weather sounds like Oregon
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This is the factory Polaris heat kit
Not the Dei -
Thought I would give you an update on the Polaris Heat kit install. I ran into a problem removing the right side panels. The first screw at the back of the seat in the corner would not come out. As I was unscrewing something snapped and the clip that the screw goes into just kept spinning around. I could not get hold of it. The panel seemed loose so I just removed it with that fitting still in. Well, the snap I heard was the fitting broke the plastic it was clipped to. What a BITCH! I fabricated a metal fitting and JBwelded it to the plastic tunnel that was left. Once it cures I am confident I can put the retainer clip back on and secure the panel. Worked on this for about 3 hours. Now I am waiting for my cat delete pipe to arrive so I can finish the muffler and side panel reinstall. I did remove the hood with a friend before I started any of this. I plan on doing the radiator shroud tomorrow or Monday depending how the reinstall goes for the muffler. Honestly, if the charge was $200 labor, I would jump on it. This is not fun. But if the screw issue did not come up it would have changed my thinking.
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Polaris believes in cross threading rather than soft set thread lock. it's cheaper..
You will like it. Having had both versions I can tell you the new design works.
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Got the muffler heat kit installed and the cat delete pipe. The instructions from Polaris are not great. The pics for the foam for the rocker panel is so dark I have no idea where it goes. Any help would be appreciated. On to the radiator shroud tomorrow.
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Got the muffler heat kit installed and the cat delete pipe. The instructions from Polaris are not great. The pics for the foam for the rocker panel is so dark I have no idea where it goes. Any help would be appreciated. On to the radiator shroud tomorrow.
It may have been better that you decided to do this yourself. Not sure how good your dealer is, so they may not have spent much time fixing cross-threaded or broken fasteners/mounting points!!! The new foam is pretty easy.....the long one replaces the existing one (it's just longer for better coverage), and the short piece goes horizontally along the bottom (so both pieces look like a backwards L when you're done). These seal the gap better between the outer fender and inner body. Just take the time to remove the old strip, and clean the surface before installing the new ones.
The radiator shroud install is fairly straight forward, just take your time and you'll see the different electrical and hose supports you can remove to make the job easier. I'd suggest taking the airbox and ait tube to the throttle body completely off. (just another thing that won't get in your way)
Hope this helps, and good luck!!!!! -
@EricRedSL.....here's a couple shots of how high up that foam gets applied. The sticky side goes on the body panel, not the side panel that you detached. It's quite long, so you'll want to start at the top when you stick it on. You can see how it is right up against the passenger side rear hood latch.
Here's the shots....hope you can get a sense of how to apply it:
Close-up:
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Thanks Brother!!!
Good shot by the way....it's hard to get a good focus in there!!!! -
i just pulled the motor real quick. It's back in now. Sorry was just to busy to take pics but it did happen .. promise....
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i just pulled the motor real quick. It's back in now. Sorry was just to busy to take pics but it did happen .. promise....
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Finally got it all installed. What a pain. If I did not have trouble with one of the stripped fasteners it would have save a few hours. I never did get the screw out. The fitting broke and after removing I had to fabricate a fix. Knowing what I know now it would have gone allot faster. I am 68 and my stamina lasts for a few hours. I spent parts of 3 days getting this on. I did not keep track of the hours but I bet between working on it and breaks I probably had 6 hours into it. Definately needed a friend help removing the hood and getting the hood back on along with the sub-frame. Glad I had my pitbull MC jack. I put that under the sub-frame and just slid the frame out enough to get the support removed. Wife says her feet did not get hot today. She said before they would get hot after a few miles. She did say there is still allot on heat on her floorboard. It is worth the $$ spent. I would recommend it but if your dealer will install for $200 or less that is what I would do. Had to cut 14 cable ties but putting them back only took minutes since each tie had white tape around the loom where it went. The Cat delete pipe seems to make the engine round smoother. It is not louder than the stock Cat but eliminates some heat. I am happy with it. Goodluck to whomever does this project. It's not real hard just time consuming.
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to KayTwo,
I installed the Heat Shield kit by DEI in late June on my 2016.5. I have the Alpha 1320 header and Alpha Electronic Muffler. We were out riding in early June and my wife had to keep her feet up on the side frame bar as the floor was just to hot. so I ordered the Kit along with the muffler kit and installed them. Prefect ride now, very little heat at all. Yes we are in SW Michigan right now and we do live in SE Florida. But the thing I did was to 1st block up the drain holes in the passenger floor board, (if water gets in on the passenger side I can always punch a hole in the floor covered holes. 2nd I had a lot of material left over from the muffler kit, so I pulled the Gen 2 floor mat up some, made a pattern and cut the muffler material to size, used double sided tape and placed a couple of bricks on it overnight. this works great and very little heat build up. she can actually leave her purse on the floor without it getting hot. See pictures attached. -
I had installed my own heat shield over the winter. I also ceramic coated the muffler and manifold. Sometimes I miss the heat on those chilly days. I did install it under the passenger floor board but since it is adhesive and was falling off I installed a piece of puck board over it with a couple of hose clamps.
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I installed the Heat Shield kit by DEI in late June on my 2016.5.
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Even with all that ... we used a thermal camera and identified two main culprits that just about everyone overlooks (besides behind the ECM)
The first is the little triangle detail in the center console, it creates a vent directly into the cabin from the transmission tunnel on both sides, next time you are out for a ride stick your hand in the gap between the black and painted panels created by the detail .... its like a heater vent ... some AC foam stuffed in the void stops it and you can just take it out for cooler weather.
The second is where the frame meets the foot-well under the mirror mounts. Directs engine heat right in the passenger side... not near as bad on the driver..... Again some AC foam stuffed in from the engine side stops it ....
Taking care of these two area may finish up the job of making your passenger happy in our beautiful August afternons ..........
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I also installed the DEI heat kit and also added insulation above the firewall. This way the heat cannot get to the passenger compartment through the glove box. It runs all the way over behind the hood latch so heat cannot get into the SS by the moirror mounts as @Orangeman described above.
