The New Front Fenders from @Stickerdick

    Quote from FunCycle

    I know we will find out what works best. But I think the wear on the fiber glass will be the problem if we have any later down the road. We will just have to be sure that bolts are good and tight on the fiber glass so that the bracket does not move at all. Now I know that you are glad that I started this thread. All the INFO in one place.

    Having run fiberglass fenders on motorcycles eliminating movement at the mounting points is inherent to longevity of the fender. I used 3M 5952 VHB Tape between the mounting bracket and fiberglass and ran it the entire length of the bracket contact. It fills the uneven voids of the fiberglass and literally fastens the bracket to the fender when compress slightly.


    From the pictures I have seen so far it looks like you only installing nuts and standard washers to sandwich the fender to the bracket. If this is the case in the long term the gel coat will crack at these points until the glass underneath deteriorates. Again my experience has been to dissipate the stress over a larger area. This could be done easily by providing a strip of metal the same width and length as the bracket underneath thus sandwiching a much larger area of fiberglass. Then add the same 3M 5952 VHB Tape to this metal strip to stop movement of the fenders. When you tighten the mounting bolts, do not over tighten or you will crush the fiberglass. Nylon locking nuts or Loctite should be used to assure the nut will not back off.


    I have not purchased these fenders, but if I had the above suggestions is the method I would use based on my own failures I experience with fiberglass fenders. The sandwich method with 3M 5952 VHB Tape has been very successful. I however was not mounting from a single side as these fenders are mounted.

    Quote from mniron

    Having run fiberglass fenders on motorcycles eliminating movement at the mounting points is inherent to longevity of the fender. I used 3M 5952 VHB Tape between the mounting bracket and fiberglass and ran it the entire length of the bracket contact. It fills the uneven voids of the fiberglass and literally fastens the bracket to the fender when compress slightly.
    From the pictures I have seen so far it looks like you only installing nuts and standard washers to sandwich the fender to the bracket. If this is the case in the long term the gel coat will crack at these points until the glass underneath deteriorates. Again my experience has been to dissipate the stress over a larger area. This could be done easily by providing a strip of metal the same width and length as the bracket underneath thus sandwiching a much larger area of fiberglass. Then add the same 3M 5952 VHB Tape to this metal strip to stop movement of the fenders. When you tighten the mounting bolts, do not over tighten or you will crush the fiberglass. Nylon locking nuts or Loctite should be used to assure the nut will not back off.


    I have not purchased these fenders, but if I had the above suggestions is the method I would use based on my own failures I experience with fiberglass fenders. The sandwich method with 3M 5952 VHB Tape has been very successful. I however was not mounting from a single side as these fenders are mounted.

    Good info Mniron and good helpful video posts StickerDick.

    Quote from Shatneyman

    Thanks you sir, but it wasn't necessary. At the very least, let me pay you for shipping. Which might be more then the nuts and bolts! :00008084::00008172:

    Believe it or not... the nuts and bolts are about 25% of the cost of the fenders... grade 8 is not cheap and stainless is getting damn expensive and a m12 bolt with the fine pitch thread is $5.50 each my cost!

    And just so the interested parties watching along here understand... yes, I want to make a profit, but I ALSO want to help educate our brethren in the SS community that stickers, doo-hickies and big wheels and tires are just one portion of the modifications that can be done to the SS.


    Three's da Life will be a more performance and safety based aftermarket supplier and that our main goal will be to do modifications that enhance the open air,"motorcycle-style" experience. We will leave the "J.C. Whitney" Catalog products (thanks J.H.) to the other companies better suited to producing the low quality, "blingy" products for the large market out there. Our products will focus more on performance products such as engine tuning, alignments, suspension, aerodynamics, brakes, engine swaps and performance enhancers. And every once in awhile... I'll succumb to my gaudy side and make some "blingy" items in decals and graphics a.k.a, @MiM and your snake eyes. I'll have your proof tonight by the way :D8o:rolleyes:8|:thumbsup::thumbup:

    Quote from FunCycle

    Just a catch all for INFO and everything about the fenders from @StickerDick. Easy Mounting --- Paint --- things not do do --- what needs to be done. I think everyone gets the idea. It will probably be a while before I mount mine. Can we get the paint in a spray can, I am good with spray can painting. 2 to 3 cases a week for about 18 years.

    I just wanted to make sure I did not forget to thank Gerald aka @FunCycle for his starting this thread... with my running Signtalk Graphix and creating these other side projects, I needed a kick in the pants to get the instructions out there... Thanks My Man... even though I know you are with the "darkside" :D of the Bald Wookie Stormtrooper aka @rabtech... it's fun that you can be open to the good side of the force! I still don't think Robert even realizes that he is a "stormtrooper"? Has he even watched a StarWars Movie? ?(

    My fiberglass guru will be meeting with me on this sunday to start the process of building the mold for the 22" rim /tire combo fender kit that will also be coming in a precut, polished and finished Carbon fiber Kit. The "CF Street Racer" fenders will be super clean, come with polished anodized aluminum brackets and will need no finishing on your part, they will be truly bolt on..... I'm about to wet my britches! Here is a picture of a motorcycle fender he did in the clear carbon fiber finish. This is the style and look we will be going for. The fiberglass will still have the same basic look as the "alpha" group, they will just have a longer curve to them to fit the larger set of wheels that alot of folks seem to be going to. I'm not into the Big Wheels, but... I guess some of the other folks are? The CF fenders are not going to be cheap... so I don't expect o make alot of them, but I know there a few folks looking for them.... Me, HUMMM... @supermoto292?

    Quote from FunCycle

    OK, gentlemen put your minds in gear. What/How can we round the fender edges with, so that they will be the same all the way around. I am trying to get away from just the eye ball. OH! I will figure something or someway to do it.

    I can make you a stencil decal and send it to you with your fender spacers if you want... Funcycle, you found a need that I did not think of... now we will fix it!

    Once I get the size that funcycle wants, all of the "alpha" customers will get the decal kit... part of being the test subjects is you get ALL of the updates... only fair since you took the chance and decided to ride this bitch with me... gotta take care of you guys and gals!

    Quote from StickerDick

    Once I get the size that funcycle wants, all of the "alpha" customers will get the decal kit... part of being the test subjects is you get ALL of the updates... only fair since you took the chance and decided to ride this bitch with me... gotta take care of you guys and gals!

    I have not even looked at the fenders today, but I did put the brackets together and figured out how to mount. I already had some Stainless steel body washers 1 1/4 and 1 1/2 inch diameter so one or the other will be what I will use. My back is giving me a problem today so nothing else getting done today.

    Uphosltery foam 1 inch thick or 1/2 inch carpet padding doubled will work great to use for the spacing on the fender. I have a piece of 1 1/8 inch thick but it is to thick and opens/spreads the fender to much to fit the ark of the tire. Cut a strip 5 inches wide and 2 inches longer than the fender. It should work perfect. I have got to go to the carpet store tomorrow for some padding

    Fenders have been mounted with the brackets. Just have to round the corners. I used the 1 1/8 in thick foam for the spacer. One thing with the stock SL front tires and rim it might be hard to get them off. I will find out for sure when I finish the cutting and rounding of the corners. So for everyone with the fenders do not try and get to close to the tire or you will pulling the fender to pull the tire off. Right now all I can say is it is border line pulling the tire off with the spacer on it.

    OK! everything is done. Just need the paint. I will mount everything tomorrow and check to see if I can take the tires on an off without to much trouble. Then I will run the fenders for a while to wait for warm weather and then paint black with a rattle can. I still have to pull the stock splash guards off, I will get around to it on the next bad weather.

    I went ahead and fully mounted the passenger side fender with the tire off. I did get the tire on but it was not easy. So there will be some more trimming on the outside lip to make it a true circle from the center and I believe everything will be good. If that does not work I will cut about another 1/8 inch off of the lip all of the way around. Painter's Tape is your friend. Also I had a long drill bit so I could drill two of the holes in place and bolted everything down tight and removed everything and drilled the other 2 holes (no way to make a mistake) Tomorrow is another day to make everything right. Everyone remember this is the stock tire and rim for the 2015. If the tire is wider you will have to space out the arms more also if the tire is taller you might have to cut more of the lip off. I used a 5 inch circle on painters tape to lay out the corners of the fenders for the cut.