Front Brake Rotor info

Are you going to test fit them?

Close but unless the hub is correct they are worthless

Hub center bore is 67.30 (+- .10) on the OE I have sitting here. Inside needs to be about 140mm.

All other info is very, very close.

Quote from Ruptured Duck

Hub center bore is 67.30 (+- .10) on the OE I have sitting here. Inside needs to be about 140mm.

All other info is very, very close.

I have a whole set of stock rotors just waiting in the Playroom. I have not had any problems with the stock rotors and I am using the Hawk 5.0 pads. Not saying the big rotors are not better but the stock works for me and will lock up instantly if needed.

Quote from mikeyapproved

Well, not if a person uses a hub centric adapter.....
Im playing with a 360mm rotor from a BMW... will use a hub centric adapter ring (Stainless)for the center and redrilled hat...

I will let everyone know if i'm successful or not...

Hub centric adapters are primarily used with wheels, have not heard of using them with rotors. I am not saying it can’t be done but I would rather have the correct machined hub to avoid any possibility of error when it comes to brakes or their failure.

The Slingshot hubs are 66.1 mm so a 67.3 mm ID to 66.1 mm OD hub ring would be needed. A quick check of 2 sites didn't show that size (67.1 mm ID being common), but JustForWheels offers some custom sizes.

Full Disclaimer:

The information being displayed is from research only and NOT a recommendation for anyone to purchase the products and/or install them on any vehicle that they were not intended for.

See, I don't believe in small print. If it's important, it should be as attention getting as possible. That being said, if you're interested, please read on

The REAR rotors from a 1993 through 1995 Mazda RX-7 COULD possibly be used, BUT the rear side of the hub needs to be opened up to 5 7/8”, and a hub centric ring needs to be installed

I currently have them on my slingshot and have used them for over 20,000 miles. I bought CHEAP slotted and vented rotors so as to not have a large investment if it didn't work. My seat of the pants review saw not improvement in braking. Now in full honesty, like I said, these were cheap rotors and I matted them with cheap ceramic pads. Someday when I have nothing better to do, I may try a good set of pads and a better set of rotors and see what improvements if any are felt.

Also, before buying and /or machining, make sure to double check the measurements on the new rotors. There may be more or less material depending on the brand you buy. A better rotor made NOT have enough extra material to safely machine the inside of the hub and a shattered rotor under extreme braking on the highway or track day could be fatal. That is why I would NEVER advise anyone to attempt this without the full knowledge and verification of all aspects before the first cut is made.

There are a few others using this same rotor and modified the same way and to my knowledge they have seen minimal to no improvement in braking nor any failures. But they do look good on a slingshot. Also one last note. Not all three rotors have to be machined to the 5 7/8" spec since the front hub is different than the rear hub (or at least on the 2015 models. That's again why you MUST measure everything and be comfortable with what you are attempting to do. You are doing so at your own risk if you so choose this approach

I don't know what you said @funinthesun, but how much would it cost for my Sling?

Would love slotted or drilled rotors, but not at current "Slingshot" prices...

So, maybe once you're fully recovered Phil, we can talk some more about this?

Quote from MiM

I don't know what you said @funinthesun, but how much would it cost for my Sling?

Would love slotted or drilled rotors, but not at current "Slingshot" prices...

So, maybe once you're fully recovered Phil, we can talk some more about this?

This is more up your alley! Slightly used no less!

SLR Rotors Crossdrilled, over a pound less weight than stock rotors

Beautiful and great thinking!

You've got a source?

Quote from MiM

Beautiful and great thinking!

You've got a source?

Source: Anyone with a SLR that puts on BBK

You find them, I will drill them for you. As you see I have already done some and I make them right and left.

Anyone who has a SLR, send me your rotors and I will drill them for you.

@Shadow Warrior... Does bulletspeed have SLR rotors that are for sale (or giveaways ), used?

Saw you shared some of their angle drives and swingarms in the marketplace... Just wondering...

Thanks in advance for any info...

Its those calipers that make those rotors stop better.....

Wait ,,,, That last pic was the cutest wasn't it?

I have found that the DDMWorks parking brake is the strongest parking brake ever installed on a rolling vehicle.

I wanted to test the ability to slow down with it so that my brake lights wouldn't come on.. You know why.....

I was probably running 60 , may be 80... Not sure.. But I pushed the button in and pulled up slightly on the handle and the rear tire come to an instant stop. Of course I was still moving 60ish down the road with a sliding rear tire.

That little add-on brake caliper has some serious stopping power. I now use it for parking (as it should be) and if I use it to slow down I gently (very gently) ease up on the handle.

Quote from rabtech

I was probably running 60 , may be 80... Not sure.. But I pushed the button in and pulled up slightly on the handle and the rear tire come to an instant stop. Of course I was still moving 60ish down the road with a sliding rear tire.

That little add-on brake caliper has some serious stopping power.

Just wonder what repeated use in this manner would be. The Alpha system skidded the rear the same but the park brake was quickly ruined from the excessive heat. The Stoptech park brake is basically the same design as Alpha and most likely suffer the same fate. I know none of the park brakes where designed with this type of abuse but the DDM system does disapate the heat on the large rotor mass, guessing the smaller pads would wear fast.

@funinthesun I'm cheaper than you. I drilled stock rotors for no cost at all. Still working great over 2 years in.

Yes, but mine also are slotted. They look great, but with the stock diameter rotor inside a 20 wheel, it looks lost. Too bad the "good" brake kits are so much money. I'll never track mine and hardly ever exceed 110 mph for any length of time. With the ceramic pads and these rotors, I haven't had any "oh shit" braking moments to force me into the $2,000 brake kits. But you're right - free is best. Just ask Marco