Forced induction resale

  • Let's say your in the market for a Sling and you're choosing between 2 similar models. One has forced induction (honey--I was "forced" to buy it) and the other has CAI, free flow exhaust and a Bob tune..Which would you purchase and if you opt for the turbo/sc model, how much extra would you be willing to pay for it? Is an SC model worth more than the Turbo and vice-versa?--Opinions?

  • it all comes down to personal preference and if you want to deal with the "what if's". Most people don't have the knowledge or the wallet to deal with a blown motor from a turbo or SC set up. And even though the likelihood is low, it's still a higher possibility than buying a naturally aspirated set up. I honestly don't think there is a right answer, just a preference.

    Actively looking for another sling...It is time...

  • So many variables here. What do you want from it? I can run with a SC or Turbo up to 70-80, after that I just watch them pull away. I have a stock muffler, but CAT delete, header, CAI and Bob's tune. Is straight line hard acceleration past say 75 mph what you want? Forced may be what you want. If it happens to shell the engine, it may not...... so how deep are the potential pockets if that happens?


    Me, I want to cruise in it, hot rod it a bit, and hit the twisties like Tail of the Dragon. Forced air won't help me there, better putting money into tires, brakes, shocks and sway bar. Like others said, all in what you want. With my set up, it's a big and very noticeable difference over stock performance and still kept MPG's very decent (better than stock).

  • I'd definitely go with a used SC over TC based on my current knowledge... Not much BTW!


    But I'd also be looking to come out of the deal on the positive side... As in steal it! So... For a 2015, SC, with 15k miles... I'd pay...$15K :D


    Wishful thinking!

  • I wasn't looking so much for desirability of boosting but strictly how it affects resale. As an owner, if I decide to boost it seems feasible that I might actually make it harder to sell and possibly even lose value. A potential buyer perusing the forums will see various topics regarding mechanical problems after boosting, many serious. Additionally the thought process might be that a turbo or sc setup was driven much harder and potentially be less reliable. On the other hand there are performance type buyers also who would find it desirable..For those that have sold a boosted Sling, were you able to recover any of the additional investment?

  • As with many motorcycle accessories, expect any mod to add 50% of its cost at most to the sale price. Removing a TC or SC and selling it separately may bring more money than including it in the sale.
    I bought a Hahn turbo kit because it offered the lowest entry cost for a full system. I've been taking my time with the install since I don't have available cash if I break something.
    From a durability POV, adding mods such as a CAI, aftermarket exhaust, the Hahn intake manifold and an ECU reflash seem to really focus the power band from 3200-redline and seem to make a decent impact on how the Slingshot is driven based on user feedback (see NEW! StreetRace Billet Intake Manifold from Hahn RaceCraft!). These types of changes to a NA motor should not cause any problems that might occur in a boosted situation and as such, shouldn't lead to increased likelihood of engine problems beyond the fact that the driver may well find him/herself operating the engine at the upper end of its rpm range. Of course, the extra power developed will be much less, too, but again at much lower risk of problems. Total cost of these NA mods could still approach the levels of a lower-cost turbo system, though.

  • If what you're looking for is higher resale value (with anything we add to these money pits) forget it. I don't believe even the 50% rule of of return applies here. For some reason our beloved slingshots don't hold any value. The mods we do are because we enjoy personalizing and (as in my case) I'm a speed junkie. I wouldn't go into any mod thinking it will increase the value of my SS very much. Do it for your own pleasure or do as @MiM does... look around for used stuff, try it out, if it doesn't suit your needs, remove it and resell it. :rolleyes:

  • If what you're looking for is higher resale value (with anything we add to these money pits) forget it. I don't believe even the 50% rule of of return applies here. For some reason our beloved slingshots don't hold any value. The mods we do are because we enjoy personalizing and (as in my case) I'm a speed junkie. I wouldn't go into any mod thinking it will increase the value of my SS very much. Do it for your own pleasure or do as @MiM does... look around for used stuff, try it out, if it doesn't suit your needs, remove it and resell it. :rolleyes:

    Yep!


  • If what you're looking for is higher resale value (with anything we add to these money pits) forget it. I don't believe even the 50% rule of of return applies here. For some reason our beloved slingshots don't hold any value. The mods we do are because we enjoy personalizing and (as in my case) I'm a speed junkie. I wouldn't go into any mod thinking it will increase the value of my SS very much. Do it for your own pleasure or do as @MiM does... look around for used stuff, try it out, if it doesn't suit your needs, remove it and resell it. :rolleyes:


    Maybe the videos on the WWW show what “adult driven” and “garage kept” really means! Hahaha



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • As it stands now for NA Horse Power. 1320 header $295 --- Hahn Street Race Manifold with the Cool Ram Intake $1378 --- Welter Dual with the cat. delete (not the large dia.) $1378 --- Bob's Tune $400 For a total of $3,568. Then we have the handling we have the DDM Sway Barthe Links and the Bracket $384 --- QA-1 Shocks $836 --- RRR Frame Strut $260 for a total of $1480. Now for the rest add another 6 to 7 thousand. I do not believe there is anything else that I can add to get more HP except maybe the DDM cam. The largest gain was two items, the cat delete and the Alpha CAI, more power and 4 mpg increase in gas mileage with the stock muffler (which IMHO) is the best sounding exhaust out there.

  • I know it has been said a NA can stay with a SC or Turbo up to 60 or 70 MPH. My experience is different. I had a CAI, exhaust, and Bob's tune before I put on the SC.
    Timed launches to 60, the SC posts times just short of 1 second faster.
    As for driving on roads such as the dragon, well that has a lot to do with the driver. If I drive the sling with a group with out getting into the boost very hard, we all stay together. If I get aggressive and stay in the boost the pack usually gets separated. If the same driver, ie. @FunCycle, was to drive the NA then a boosted sling, his times would be faster.
    It is hard to understand what a good boosted engine, and a rear tire setup that grips can do unless you have driven one hard.
    @Goats_Hogs, It would be my pleasure to have you take mine for a ride at MV.

  • I know it has been said a NA can stay with a SC or Turbo up to 60 or 70 MPH. My experience is different. I had a CAI, exhaust, and Bob's tune before I put on the SC.
    Timed launches to 60, the SC posts times just short of 1 second faster.
    As for driving on roads such as the dragon, well that has a lot to do with the driver. If I drive the sling with a group with out getting into the boost very hard, we all stay together. If I get aggressive and stay in the boost the pack usually gets separated. If the same driver, ie. @FunCycle, was to drive the NA then a boosted sling, his times would be faster.
    It is hard to understand what a good boosted engine, and a rear tire setup that grips can do unless you have driven one hard.
    @Goats_Hogs, It would be my pleasure to have you take mine for a ride at MV.

    Ah, a thought on the mix I hadn't considered! All the ones I can compare to (hard running together) are also running more "street friendly" tires that would also do well in rain and varying street conditions. The rear tire that grips is the wildcard here to me. Even N/A with my setup, aggressive driving (like I do on the roads like the dragon) will need some finesse with the throttle or the rear will do some very bad things coming hard out of a corner. A sticky tire on a boosted SS I would expect to pull away on a 0-60 pass, especially if I'm running an all season sport tire (I am). The point I was trying to make was not taking into consideration a soft compound tire. From 0-60 or 70, I'm pushing traction limits without boost on all out acceleration. And I am humbled by your offer on driving your SS!


    Again as mentioned before, it's all in what you want. I've averaged 13k a season, much of it is travel on on twisty roads. Wife and I will get out on the weekend, and drive to southern Indiana/Ohio, or Kentucky, just to ride fun roads. Some days, we just lollygag around the back roads, may only hit 30 or 40 for hours. When I do this, I'm still pulling down 30+ MPG. I have $300 in the CAI (DDMWorks, on sale, with air box and in red), $150 for the 1320 header (scratched discount), $100 for the CAT delete, and $400 for the tune. That's $950 for a SS that will beat a stock one all day long, and 1 second from 0-60 on a supercharged one with a sticky tire. Sticky tires wear fast, and SC uses more fuel. Easy to get $8k in SC, tune, exhaust, and sticky tire. I'm also more of a "wring it out to 90 MPH and back down" kinda person. I'm trying to have fun, keep my license, and save for retirement. I'm good with N/A.... LOL!


    If you look for what I want it's somewhere between Rabtech and MIM. Fast as I can get, coolest look, and on a budget....

  • I understand what you are saying. I am lucky enough to have the 2 slings in the garage. The only difference between the the 2 is the SC. Each one has to be driven differently with the NA staying in the higher higher rpm range and the SC being able to stay in a higher gear, allowing it to pull longer through and out of the turns.
    As well as running different tires, the SC has a larger diameter tire that effectively gives me higher gearing.
    Crazy thing is I think I have found a way to get even more traction. (Coming soon)

  • I understand what you are saying. I am lucky enough to have the 2 slings in the garage. The only difference between the the 2 is the SC. Each one has to be driven differently with the NA staying in the higher higher rpm range and the SC being able to stay in a higher gear, allowing it to pull longer through and out of the turns.
    As well as running different tires, the SC has a larger diameter tire that effectively gives me higher gearing.
    Crazy thing is I think I have found a way to get even more traction. (Coming soon)

    :whistling:

  • You will not loose overall value by installing a SC or TC. There are too many variables to know how much money you will recoup the initial cost of the kit when selling the machine. I would guess the 50% rule may be close right now...

    Look at it this way.... if you had $20k to choose between two machines in similar shape, would you buy the boosted one or the NA one. The majority would choose the boosted one. It seems that most are selling $2-$4k higher, depending on the kit and the extras.

    Most kits are very safe when used as intended. If you are really worried about durability, then simply run a smaller amount of boost. Very few kits, that were installed right (if any), that run under 8lbs of boost have hurt motors.

    Owner of Slingshot #263 that has some stock parts left on it. :D

  • Ah, a thought on the mix I hadn't considered! All the ones I can compare to (hard running together) are also running more "street friendly" tires that would also do well in rain and varying street conditions. The rear tire that grips is the wildcard here to me. Even N/A with my setup, aggressive driving (like I do on the roads like the dragon) will need some finesse with the throttle or the rear will do some very bad things coming hard out of a corner. A sticky tire on a boosted SS I would expect to pull away on a 0-60 pass, especially if I'm running an all season sport tire (I am). The point I was trying to make was not taking into consideration a soft compound tire. From 0-60 or 70, I'm pushing traction limits without boost on all out acceleration. And I am humbled by your offer on driving your SS!
    Again as mentioned before, it's all in what you want. I've averaged 13k a season, much of it is travel on on twisty roads. Wife and I will get out on the weekend, and drive to southern Indiana/Ohio, or Kentucky, just to ride fun roads. Some days, we just lollygag around the back roads, may only hit 30 or 40 for hours. When I do this, I'm still pulling down 30+ MPG. I have $300 in the CAI (DDMWorks, on sale, with air box and in red), $150 for the 1320 header (scratched discount), $100 for the CAT delete, and $400 for the tune. That's $950 for a SS that will beat a stock one all day long, and 1 second from 0-60 on a supercharged one with a sticky tire. Sticky tires wear fast, and SC uses more fuel. Easy to get $8k in SC, tune, exhaust, and sticky tire. I'm also more of a "wring it out to 90 MPH and back down" kinda person. I'm trying to have fun, keep my license, and save for retirement. I'm good with N/A.... LOL!


    If you look for what I want it's somewhere between Rabtech and MIM. Fast as I can get, coolest look, and on a budget....

    I agree with you I like the NA and I have stayed ahead of a good many boosted Slings. Except Bobby on the longer straights, besides I am easier on the breaks and I can come out of the corners harder/faster without lighting up the back tire. I am thinking that has changed with the Hahn Intake, time will tell. I have never tried to push the Sling to it's full limit on the crooked roads. I just stay in my comfort zone.

  • The issue with the boosted sling is that you have no way to know how it was driven, setup and taken care of, and because a oem engine in boosted application runs close to the limits of its tolerances, you might have a soon to blow engine without knowing it.


    This problem is not really an issue for a machine with a cold air and the exhaust because these mods don't really stress the engine much.


    Considering the amount of Alpha setup I have seen smoking oil like mad I would stay away from pre-boosted machines unless they where built by pros like DDM themselves.

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    and more...

  • The issue with the boosted sling is that you have no way to know how it was driven, setup and taken care of, and because a oem engine in boosted application runs close to the limits of its tolerances, you might have a soon to blow engine without knowing it.


    This problem is not really an issue for a machine with a cold air and the exhaust because these mods don't really stress the engine much.


    Considering the amount of Alpha setup I have seen smoking oil like mad I would stay away from pre-boosted machines unless they where built by pros like DDM themselves.

    "Adult Driven" :whistling: .
    For the record... I know there's been lots of Alpha bad press here lately, but I've been running it 2 years now.... no smoke, no issues... BUT!!!, they did the install :/