Exhaust header wrap

  • Hi all,
    I am thinking of wrapping my 1320 header and the Welter pipes totally. So i am wondering if the exercise is futile or a beneficial move.

    Drive so you can drive tomorrow, and remember that fun is always on the sunny side up.

  • I'll be watching your thread with keen interest as I am planning to install the same within the next week or so. Now would definitely be the time to do it before it is installed.


    Tim "Ghost" Ganey
    Winfield, Alabama
    205spam412spam2868

  • Should be fine so long as the wrap is heat rated over 1200 degrees ~> Otherwise it will get brittle/dry and may begin to fray.


    *Be sure to laser check the temperature on the header after running the motor for about a 1/2 hour. :thumbup:

    If at first you don't succeed, skydiving is not for you...
    Signature.png

  • I have a 1320 header and Welter Duals and did add extra wrap, but only in the areas where the pipes go past the battery and the swingarm bearings. No issues so far. I cannot imagine the need to wrap the headers or front portion of the pipes as the amount of heat generated there dissipates well on its own. Passenger footwell heat isn’t an issue at all. Will post a pic soon

  • I would stick with the heat protection reason. The wrap can help protect areas near to the heat source, but keeping heat in just means somewhere else will be warmer than if no wrap were used anywhere. The heat needs to get out somehow. Here are the wrap pics.

  • Certainly performance/reliability can be improved if the purpose of the wrap is to keep electronic boxes from getting too hot. Likewise if the purpose is to keep the induction system cooler. As in side draft (like Weber DCOE) carbureted engines where the exhaust exits under the carbs, wrap is almost always good to use.

  • Part of the pipe is wrapped and I wonder if there is a viable reason for them not doing the entire exhaust pipe?


    Cost ..... and most of the system is steel pipe ..... so it lessens the chance of the wrap shortening its life ..... as @Texas T alluded .....


    Wrapping isn’t just for heat blocking ...it’s supposed to help with performance somehow.


    The hotter the exhaust gasses the faster they move through the system enhancing scavenging ....


    IMO the header blanket DDM sells is the "right" way to control under hood temps if you don't want to ceramic coat ...
    Wrapping the header shortens its life ..... even SS ....


    Exhaust Header Heat Wraps - Do Not Use


    ..... nerd-squared


    .

    :REDSS: The ghost of SLingshot past ......

  • Wrapping stainless steel especially thin or stainless from China can cause the stainless to split from the excessive heat caused from not allowing it to dissipate. We use the aluminized on the majority of our systems because we do wrap some of the pipes and the aluminized being a softer metal I felt the likelihood of a system splitting and melting the plastic of somebody’s slingshot to be less of a likelihood. It’s the same material used in today’s new cars. The stuff just last. The reason it is not wrapped from end to end is because if you do so as soon as it gets to the hanger the heat runs out the hanger and will melt your high temp red rubber grommet That keeps your exhaust from vibrating. Moral of the story don’t wrap anymore than what is already wrapped as we ship it or you will induce problems. As far as wrap causing rust. Water boils 212 F so pretty much anytime the engine is running it’s hot enough to turn it directly to steam. And as far as getting wet while it’s not running well you get the point



    Sent from my iPhone using Polaris Slingshot Info


  • Tim "Ghost" Ganey
    Winfield, Alabama
    205spam412spam2868

  • Jeff, I can't disagree with you. You are the guru of exhaust for the sling. Thank you for the info, and I will leave things as they are intended. The saying goes..." Don't fix it, if it isn't broke."

    Drive so you can drive tomorrow, and remember that fun is always on the sunny side up.