Questions After First Start of my Hahn Stage 2 Turbo Kit

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    • You need more run time to determine if you are actually running leaner than normal. Make sure you calibrated your AFR gauge per the instructions and that it is sitting flat and tight. Sometimes those copper washers get wedged weird when tightening the sensor down.

      Google AUS Injection and just give them a call if you want to send out your injectors for cleaning. They are very nice people.

      On many of the vacuum lines, you are better off using zip ties than worm clamps. Worm clamps often get over tightened and eat away at the rubber that can cause small leaks.

      From experience, bolts love to get caught in the below places...

      On the passenger side between the frame and coolant hard line.

      On the drivers side underneath the intake manifold down by the starter and power steering assist box.

      Above the plastic shield that sits on the bottom side of the intercooler and radiator.

      Air is your friend. Jack up the front left side really high and take a air gun and blow around like crazy.
      Owner of Slingshot #263 that has some stock parts left on it. :D
    • TravAZ wrote:

      You need more run time to determine if you are actually running leaner than normal. Make sure you calibrated your AFR gauge per the instructions and that it is sitting flat and tight. Sometimes those copper washers get wedged weird when tightening the sensor down.

      Google AUS Injection and just give them a call if you want to send out your injectors for cleaning. They are very nice people.

      On many of the vacuum lines, you are better off using zip ties than worm clamps. Worm clamps often get over tightened and eat away at the rubber that can cause small leaks.

      From experience, bolts love to get caught in the below places...

      On the passenger side between the frame and coolant hard line.

      On the drivers side underneath the intake manifold down by the starter and power steering assist box.

      Above the plastic shield that sits on the bottom side of the intercooler and radiator.

      Air is your friend. Jack up the front left side really high and take a air gun and blow around like crazy.
      Two more, I had a rattle could not find where it was from the factory. There was a black bolt sitting between the frame rail and the plastic side panel on the passenger side about where the hand grip is. The how I found it was I was changing the oil and the threaded end had finally dropped thru between the plastic and the frame. So I just pulled the plastic and it dropped out
    • TravAZ wrote:

      You need more run time to determine if you are actually running leaner than normal. Make sure you calibrated your AFR gauge per the instructions and that it is sitting flat and tight. Sometimes those copper washers get wedged weird when tightening the sensor down.

      Google AUS Injection and just give them a call if you want to send out your injectors for cleaning. They are very nice people.

      On many of the vacuum lines, you are better off using zip ties than worm clamps. Worm clamps often get over tightened and eat away at the rubber that can cause small leaks.

      From experience, bolts love to get caught in the below places...

      On the passenger side between the frame and coolant hard line.

      On the drivers side underneath the intake manifold down by the starter and power steering assist box.

      Above the plastic shield that sits on the bottom side of the intercooler and radiator.

      Air is your friend. Jack up the front left side really high and take a air gun and blow around like crazy.
      I'm planning on taking it out on the road for the break-in ride soon, but don't plan on trying to test the turbo until I see where the AFR numbers are during regular side road speeds. Then I'll decide if I need to have the tune tweaked and/or use AUS Injection. Personally, I like knowing the fuel injectors are matched well.

      I've noticed that the screw clamps on small vacuum hoses don't necessarily seem to clamp evenly. A cable tie wight well provide a better fit.

      While I have looked under neath the Slingshot, I haven't actually gotten under it to look up. I like the idea of uysing the air gun, too. I just upgraded my air compressor to an upright 20 gal 155 psi Craftsman unit and it shoud have more capacity than my old Bostitch 6 gal pancake unit.
    • Just so you are aware, I haven't seen that high of AFRs at idle (after idling several minutes) with injectors that needed to be cleaned or that were not flow matched. I also doubt the tune at idle is that different from the Alpha tune to the Hahn tune if they are both set in open-loop as Dave explained. Open loop tunes usually have an AFR in the mid 13s and closed loop is shooting for 14.7. Closed loop tunes are almost always rougher in nature.

      Start it and let it idle for a few minutes. Let the machine warm up and give the ECM time to adjust the throttle blade correctly. If it is idling lean, it will idle rough and almost seem like it is missing. If it seems to be running just fine, I would try to re-calibrate your AFR gauge.
      Owner of Slingshot #263 that has some stock parts left on it. :D
    • TravAZ wrote:

      Just so you are aware, I haven't seen that high of AFRs at idle (after idling several minutes) with injectors that needed to be cleaned or that were not flow matched. I also doubt the tune at idle is that different from the Alpha tune to the Hahn tune if they are both set in open-loop as Dave explained. Open loop tunes usually have an AFR in the mid 13s and closed loop is shooting for 14.7. Closed loop tunes are almost always rougher in nature.

      Start it and let it idle for a few minutes. Let the machine warm up and give the ECM time to adjust the throttle blade correctly. If it is idling lean, it will idle rough and almost seem like it is missing. If it seems to be running just fine, I would try to re-calibrate your AFR gauge.
      Thanks. I had been thinking about recalibrating the sensor, just in case. The idle seems to run smoothly. I had Bob/MEFItune do the initial ECU reflash at the beginning of July, 2017. I've just been lazy and haven't gotten around to cleaning up all the loose tools in my carport so I can get the wheels back on and test drive the thing.
    • A quick test may also be to find someone close by that has a different afr gauge. There are ones like the AEM (30-4110) that has an o2 sensor that does not need to be caibrated. Just screw it in, plug in the connectors and tie in the power and ground and leads and you're good to go. BUT, you never want to run a heated O2 sensor (one that has a power wire that preheats the sensor) without the heated lead hooked up. That will give you false readings for sure. It's a slight PITA, but at least it will confirm that you have a true afr issue or not
      If your carpet has to match the drapes,
      shouldn't your trailer match your Slingshot?

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