Brake Switch replacement with NAPA Switch

    Haven't heard much about this problem any more and not sure why, but originally hooking up a trailer harness usually would knock the magnetic brake switch out of commission. I replaced mine over a year ago and have never had an issue. If you want to or need to do this, this is how I did it.


    First the bracket I made to mount the Napa plunder style brake switch (SL169. The plug has NAPA part # 725175). I used steel, but aluminum would work. Got a matching GM connector from Napa as well to plug into where the original switch did. No cutting and easy to swap back. Not to hard to figure out where to make the bend to catch the top end of the brake lever to make it work. Final step was larger heat shrink to protect the switch from any water that might be able to get to it. Have not had any problems with it in over 5000 miles.



    There it is..... Thanks for posting.... It looks wonderful..


    What is sad is that today I was replying to the thread about the brake light modulator and the squiggly icon appearing on the dash... And I had forgot that you did this mod and that I did it also..... We need to really fill up this tech section with this kind of stuff.. We have the talent here on the forum.... And between all of us we have fixed or described how to fix every problem someone would run into on the SS.



    Thanks again... Do you care if I put some of my brake fix pics under your fix... I think I have some of the old switch that is replaced also....

    Pretty easy install as long as you have some basic tools. Hack saw -- drill motor -- 10 mm combination wrench -- needle nose -- file -- dykes -- soldering iron -- shrink tubing, I don't think I missed anything. Also a piece of scrap alum.about 3 1/2 inch long and 1 inch wide. There are no short cuts that I know of except just doing it. You will also need 1/2 --- 19/64 --- 1/4 drill bits

    i did the same mod but it did not fix my stability light. I believe my issue is elsewhere in my system so still need to take it in.
    With the said l have extra female side connectors so you can make a 100% replacement without canabalizing your OE harness... Anyone interested?

    Proud supporter of S.O.G.

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    Have at it @rabtech

    Quote from Ruptured Duck

    i did the same mod but it did not fix my stability light. I believe my issue is elsewhere in my system so still need to take it in.
    With the said l have extra female side connectors so you can make a 100% replacement without canabalizing your OE harness... Anyone interested?

    @Ruptured Duck
    Dragged one of my posts over from the dark side and may or may not help you, but it is info...


    ESP light illuminated approximately 100 miles after my CAI installation and just over 1000 miles on the Slingshot. Checked to make sure I had not bumped any plugs and double checked wiring to possible inputs. Moisture was not a factor as had not ridden wet in more than a week. Ruled out as much as possible. So, did numerous restarts to clear and then try to pinpoint a trigger. Light would retrigger regardless of any steering input. Noticed steering wheel was clocking slightly left of center regardless of road slope left or right. So, took it to dealer and told them of my observations. They ran diagnostics and found internal fault of steering sensor. They ordered the sensor because of the displayed fault. They then gave it a shot in the dark. Aligned front end, centered steering wheel and then zeroed steering sensor to zero. Light out!
    They will replace sensor when it comes in. Light has remained off for last 150 miles.
    Noticed some folks here on the forum have stated that their brake lights were constant on with the ESP light. That was not the case with mine. Had that been the case, I would have parked it and had it transported.
    Be safe.

    Slingshot Flyer! Well, of course it's red... :REDSS:

    Quote from airoutlaw

    @Ruptured DuckDragged one of my posts over from the dark side and may or may not help you, but it is info...


    ESP light illuminated approximately 100 miles after my CAI installation and just over 1000 miles on the Slingshot. Checked to make sure I had not bumped any plugs and double checked wiring to possible inputs. Moisture was not a factor as had not ridden wet in more than a week. Ruled out as much as possible. So, did numerous restarts to clear and then try to pinpoint a trigger. Light would retrigger regardless of any steering input. Noticed steering wheel was clocking slightly left of center regardless of road slope left or right. So, took it to dealer and told them of my observations. They ran diagnostics and found internal fault of steering sensor. They ordered the sensor because of the displayed fault. They then gave it a shot in the dark. Aligned front end, centered steering wheel and then zeroed steering sensor to zero. Light out!
    They will replace sensor when it comes in. Light has remained off for last 150 miles.
    Noticed some folks here on the forum have stated that their brake lights were constant on with the ESP light. That was not the case with mine. Had that been the case, I would have parked it and had it transported.
    Be safe.

    Thanks... That will help the dealer a little.
    Anything I can do first where I don't have to go to the dealer is perfered. Wanted the switch mod anyway so no real loss.

    Proud supporter of S.O.G.

    (Slingshot Owners Group)

    :thumbsup:

    Owner/operator: MeanSling LLC :thumbsup:

    i did this brake mod,,but i think i got it tuned in to perfect..it seems that as soon as i touch,,,i mean lightly touch the brake pedal..or a bump in the road jiggles...the pedal...the bike slows down for about 5 secs? then resumes speed? any thoughts on this...no lights on dash.

    Quote from rydahog

    i did this brake mod,,but i think i got it tuned in to perfect..it seems that as soon as i touch,,,i mean lightly touch the brake pedal..or a bump in the road jiggles...the pedal...the bike slows down for about 5 secs? then resumes speed? any thoughts on this...no lights on dash.

    If you think that is the problem adjust the switch. I was one of the first ones to install the NAPA switch and all I have to do is just touch the pedal to release the cruise and I do not have the problem you are talking about. The switch is open or closed there is no bouncing between open and closed position,

    ok gotcha,,i am undecided as it stands now,,if its this..or...maybe brake sensor at MC reservoir? but something is periodically making the bike have momentary loss of power..say 5% ,,,then after a few seconds..resumes...?

    Quote from Garrett Taguchi

    Is this the fix for the brake failure light? Or is that related to the sensors?

    This discussion is for the switch that activates your brake lights (OEM is magnetic); switch works off of the brake pedal travel. The sensors on the brake master cylinder are a different (catastrophic :rolleyes: ) animal...

    Slingshots: making children out of adults since 2014

    Edited once, last by Tripod ().

    How big are the holes you has to drill in the bracket to get the brake switch to fit and the other hole for the screw and nut to fit ?

    Since I'm having an issue now with my brake lights staying on, this napa switch would solve it, right?
    Don't know if it has something to do with the extra lights I hooked up to my brake lights or not.
    Maybe I was already having the issue but only now noticed it because I can see the extra light on my wing in the rear view mirror.