Difficulties Clocking my Hahn Turbo

When I initially setup the turbo for install, I followed the Hahn instructions and loosened the 12 bolts (6 per side) that lock the turbo's cold (compression) and hot (drive) sides to the center bearing section housing the oil feed and drain lines. At the time, IIRC, the center section turned independently of the outer sections. I then tightened the bolts for the hot side and installed the drain line, using the rubber hose in the length supplied by Hahn. I then installed the oil feed line and thought I was ready to tighten the cold side bolts, but noticed the drain and oil feed lines were no longer vertical and had shifted. After loosening and trying 2x to reclock the turbo to better position the oil lines closer to vertical, I've realized the center section no longer seems to rotate independently of the two outer housings.

Using an app on my phone, I measured the angle of the feed line and oil drain lines. The attached animated GIF shows how the turbo output clocked against the frame rail with the turbo output NOT in line with the Intercooler input, and the oil feed and drain lines were measured as 15 degrees off vertical, which, from what I've read, is the max allowed deviation off vertical. The GIF also shows that if I move the turbo output clockwise to position the output in line with the Intercooler input, the center section also rotates, placing the oil feed and drain lines even farther out of vertical, outside the recommended limits.

See next comment.

This animated GIF shows how I can move the center section a little distance clockwise, but I can't move it counter-clockwise beyond its relative position to the turbo output, which is how I need to move it to make the oil feed and drain openings closer to vertical while also positioning the turbo output in line with the Intercooler input.

Since engine torque will cause the engine to rotate some, I'd like to have the turbo output positioned so that it doesn't hit the frame rail and clocked so it is in line with the Intercooler input while also maintaining the oil feed and drain lines as close as possible to vertical or at least within the recommended +/- 15 degrees of vertical.

For the life of me, I can't figure out why the center housing can not be positioned independently of the outer housings. Anybody have any ideas on what I might be doing wrong?

(I ended up splitting my post into 2 posts because I had problems getting both animated GIFs to show up where I wanted them).

Quote from iNewton

It should be simple, you have bolts to lock the intake side and bolts for the exhaust side. You should start by bolting down the exhaust side bolts so that the center is vertical, then clock the intake side, the center should not move.

Your exhaust bolts are not tight enough to keep the center from moving.

I thought I had properly tightened the exhaust bolts when I installed the oil drain line, but I'm beginning to think I must have not had them fully tightened at the times and installing the drain line threw off the vertical clocking.

Quote from rabtech

First thing is make sure you can turn the center all the way around. It should not hit anything if you have the drain connection off and the supply line off. You can virtually move the hot and cold side of the turbo in any position. So take your time and find out what is hitting when you turn it.

Thanks. It looks like I will need to remove the oil drain and feed lines. I remember being able to rotate the center section to get the proper orientation before I attached the oil drain line. I had hoped I wouldn't have to uninstall the two oil lines, but I'm now pretty sure that I didn't have all of the hot side bolts fully tightened before I attached the drain line and that resulted in the drain line forcing the clocking off.
I'm trying to be careful and I'm sure some folks may be getting tired of my questions, but I'd rather look like an idiot with my questions than enmd up ruining my turbo or engine.
Thanks for the responses.

Quote from Bill from Hahn RaceCraft

All good info so far. Berlin, this process is outlined in our detailed Installation Manual, do you have a copy?

Yes, I have a copy of your manual. I think I got confused between these two sections (identified in Bold & Underlined)-

P. 9 - Turbocharger Figure 6 demonstrates turbo position. Install the provided oil drain flange using the two 8mm SHCS and gasket provided. The -10 boss to -10 flare fitting with O-ring installs next into the oil drain flange. No sealer is needed on this part, as the O-ring is the seal. Using Teflon paste, install the included 1/8 NPT to -4 flare fitting into the turbo’s oil inlet. Ensure that all 12 bolts that attach the turbine and compressor housings to the turbocharger are loosened slightly, just enough to allow the housings to rotate independently of one another. You may note that the bolts are of two different sizes: one side accepts a ½” wrench, while the other a 13 mm wrench. This is intentional; the bolts are of different types for hot and cold size, and their threads are also different (one is metric, one is not) so as to prevent intermixing the two. With the turbo housings left able to rotate in this fashion, we’ll be able to perfect their respective position on the engine itself, and then tighten all 12 bolts.

P. 11 - Turbocharger Final Positioning and Oil Drain Line Installation As you recall, we left the turbo housings loose enough to rotate in an earlier step so as to allow optimal alignment of all components. That time has now come!
Incidentally, there is a heat shield installed on the right motor mount that comes very close to our oil drain line, and some installers opt to remove it so as to improve clearance. This is easily achieved by removing the 15 mm nut that attaches the engine bracket to the motor mount, and lifting the engine carefully to allow removal of the shield. The lifting chore is typically (and gently!) achieved via a floor jack and a protective block of wood near the edge of the engine oil pan. Mind the fragile exhaust cam position sensor on the top rear of the cylinder head as you lift the engine, as it may interfere with the coolant bottle as you raise the engine. The heat shield is not really needed in our Slingshot application, as it is part of our GM engine’s standard equipment and intended to protect the motor mount from the super-hot catalytic converters used with this engine in automotive applications. As we are not concerned with that in Slingshot, the heat shield can be removed with no ill effect. Install the engine oil fitting provided in either the oil pan (See Figure 8 and 9) or the engine block, depending on your oil drain style. Next install the oil drain line itself, with which we will final align the turbocharger’s center housing that receives the oil lines. Rotate the center housing so as to achieve a smooth, kink-free routing of the oil drain line. When you are satisfied with the positioning, tighten both the oil drain line’s flare nuts, as well as the six bolts that attach the turbocharger turbine housing to the center housing.
The six bolts attaching the compressor housing should still be loose. We’ll align that housing and tighten the bolts in a later step.

I also think I changed the center housing orientation based on how I read the sentence in Blue ink, Italics and Underlined, above.

I hope to experiment and try to fix things properly tomorrow since I have several other obligations the rest of today.

Thanks to everyone who has replied.

Thanks to everyone who's offered helpful comments. Evidently, I didn't have the hot side fully tightened down when I installed the oil drain hose, allowing the clocking to change and something must have been rubbing someplace that prevented the center housing from freely rotating to fix the positioning. After disconnecting the oil drain hose and loosening the bolts holding the center housing secure against the outer housings, I have everything properly clocked with the oil drain opening now pointing straight down! It's amazing how well things work when you carefully follow the directions!