Rear Protection Anyone?

  • That sound like a much more simple option @dangerdarrell I now intend to give it a go, using the same method, when I fit my one.
    I think that I'll fit a little stop collar, over the drill bit, to stop me drilling too deep. Does anybody have the dimension, for the depth of the panel, so that I can set the stop.



    Stop collars, in picture above.

    @UK_Paul the panel is probably only 1/8" to 3/16" thickness. You shouldn't have to worry about drilling through the tank, just drill slowly with a 1/8" bit until you feel your bit break through the plastic, then use a flashlight to confirm the metal tank strap is behind your pilot hole. Then drill out your hole to 8mm still taking care not to over penetrate. You never want to over penetrate. Please post up a pic when you get it on as I'll get a big charge out of seeing it on one out of less than 15 Slings on your side of the pond. Cheers!

    Remember folks - this isn't a rehearsal, this is The Show!8)

  • Great advise for everyone.


    My wife says she's looking forward, to a good finish, but wants me to take it slow and do it right.
    She did, however, seam a little concerned, that I may want to post some pictures.

    All the best, from UK_Paul

  • Great advise for everyone.


    My wife says she's looking forward, to a good finish, but wants me to take it slow and do it right.
    She did, however, seam a little concerned, that I may want to post some pictures.

    If she doesnt know the rules by now then shame on her...but pic are a must!! :thumbsup:


    SSREAPER

    :BLACKSS: 2016 SL LE BLACK PEARL :HEADERSS::COLDAIRSS::COILOVERSS::MOTOROILSS::OILFILTERSS:

  • No need to worry about corrosion on aluminum plate. The first layer of metal oxidizes creating a micro-thin aluminum oxide coating that is very hard and effective at sealing off the remainder of the metal from further corrosion - unlike iron, aluminum corrosion is self limiting. Aluminum doesn't have severe corrosion problems unless there is an electrolytic reaction (virtually impossible when mounting the plate to a plastic layer). There are other ways to ruin aluminum - you could dip it in liquid mercury or submerge in sulfuric acid - but I don't plan on driving across any toxic waste sites!

    The smarter you get, the funnier I am.

  • No need to worry about corrosion on aluminum plate. The first layer of metal oxidizes creating a micro-thin aluminum oxide coating that is very hard and effective at sealing off the remainder of the metal from further corrosion - unlike iron, aluminum corrosion is self limiting. Aluminum doesn't have severe corrosion problems unless there is an electrolytic reaction (virtually impossible when mounting the plate to a plastic layer). There are other ways to ruin aluminum - you could dip it in liquid mercury or submerge in sulfuric acid - but I don't plan on driving across any toxic waste sites!

    No worries. If it's bare aluminum you want, I have the plates clear coated to prevent even the small amount of surface oxidation. Without the clear, you would still be able to buff it back to it's original shine occasionally as your weather requires.

    Remember folks - this isn't a rehearsal, this is The Show!8)

  • I have gotten some interest in the rear plates in Orange Madness and have a couple of powder coat samples coming in thanks to @mytoy and @lrobbi. I will be making some of them soon along with the new front grill and passenger side kickplate so anyone interested, please stay tuned. Each of these pieces will complement the awesome paint scheme of these machines and give you a custom look that will set your Sling apart!

    Remember folks - this isn't a rehearsal, this is The Show!8)

  • While the wife was away in London, I thought that I'd finish off the job and did it all by hand, without her help.


    I took my time and did things slowly and was very pleased with the result.


    It was all very easy and very satisfying, when finished... I'd recommend doing it to anyone, that's considering giving it a go.


    All the best, from UK_Paul

  • So let's see how it all went.



    This is how things looked, before I started.


    I had already fitted the mud flap along with a red "Fireblade" aftermarket fender, red break shoe covers some red trim, on the wheel rims, red belt guard and a lovely, red, fugly-nut cover. You can never have too much red.



    These are the only tools that I used, above. A hand drill, 7mm & 8mm (5/16") wood drills, adjustable stop-colour, with allen key and a touch.


    I removed the drive handle, on the side of the drill & only used the remaining, small bolt, to drive it - This allows more room when using the drill.



    Because I was using a hand drill, (not a power tool), as @dangerdarrell had pioneered the idea. This way everything was done, without, jacking the SlingShot up, removing the rear wheel or any panels whatsoever.



    I first offerd the rear plate, up into position, held it with one hand and marked the middle of the hole, with the 7mm dia, wood drill. (I used a wood drill as the plastic was easy to cut through and so would cut without much difficulty.


    Once the holes were marked, I removed the plate and swapped drills, for the 8mm one. I had fitted a colour 12mm (1/2") from the end, of the 8mm drill. This allowed me to apply reasonable pressure to the drill, when cutting, ensuring that I did not puncture the petrol tank.



    After cutting each hole, I used the torch to check if the retention straps (on the petrol tank) were behind the new holes. I couldn't see if this was the case, so I used the small Allen key to feel for it snd this worked just as well.



    I had cleaned everything, before I started, the job and all that was left, was to remove the coverings, from the 3M tape and position the plate.


    Everything fitted fine and I inserted the plastic retaining plugs. These pull up, very firmly and appear to hold everything in place, (even if no tape had been added).



    The results look just fine, with the other red accessories and breaks up the large expanse of black, that Polaris had left us all.


    I believe this is the first rear plate, this side of the Atlantic and big thanks, goes out to @SlingLow for creating a fine price of work, that finishes the SlingShot off, very well indeed.

    All the best, from UK_Paul

    Edited once, last by UK_Paul ().

  • Looks great @UK_Paul! However, over here in the states using a torch around the gas tank sounded scary at first. :00008356:
    BTW, since I have most of the top of my Sling off I can tell everyone that there is about an inch between the fuel tank and the rear panel. Plenty of room to drill without hitting the tank.

  • Looks great @UK_Paul! However, over here in the states using a torch around the gas tank sounded scary at first. :00008356:
    BTW, since I have most of the top of my Sling off I can tell everyone that there is about an inch between the fuel tank and the rear panel. Plenty of room to drill without hitting the tank.

    @dangerdarrell Thanks for the lead. It took longer to wash the rear plate, than to do the job.


    Regards, the torch. We never have any problems in Britain with these, as we all use petrol, not gas. :00007505:

    All the best, from UK_Paul

  • I forgot to say how long it all took...


    I started out at 09:00 hrs, looking to get hold of some isopropyl alcohol. Not fun X( It's almost impossible to get hold of the stuff, over here now, as the kids love using it, for substance abuse. I could order some at 1 out of 4 chemists I tried, but that would take a day to arrive. The local car factors, no longer can stock it, hardware stores can't stock it, it appears that it may be easier to try and squeeze some from out of a stone. Then I had some inspiration. A graphics printer was next door to the motorcycle dealer that I use... They didn't have any. However they did have something else that they always used and kindly put some into a small spray bottle, for me.


    Well that was 50+《miles driving and over 4 hours of my life that I'll never see again. But it was all in the SS, so I shouldn't be too dissapoined.


    I returned home had a late lunch and set to wor


    Collected the tools, see previous posting.



    Washed the back of the SlingShot and used the isopropyl alcohol, replacement. That took all of 20 minutes, (including getting the hose out).


    Then, the l work:
    Because I was installing it, without removing the panels, it took no more than 10 minutes, from start to finish. (Possibly just over 5).


    Everything went very smoothly and I'd definitely recommend installation, in this way.


    :!: Be VERY careful not to damage the fuel tank :!:


    So most of my day was wasted, just looking for the cleaning fluid, but the results are well worth it.

    All the best, from UK_Paul

    Edited once, last by UK_Paul ().