Oops, I keep calling the assaults alpha... probably because I have the alpha bar. I have the assaults.... but you still need the longer bolts with them.
SWAY BAR
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The SS doesn’t weight nearly as much as a car or truck....they used a hollow pipe from the factory....the upgraded sway bars are twice as thick as the factory bar....so why the need for a solid bar? Does The SS really need that much more bar...
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I have the DDM adj. links on both units. DDM comes with the proper bolts.
Anybody confirm what side the adj. links go on ?
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If you use the first hole...(same as the factory bar) it will work on the outside...any other hole you have to put it on the inside.
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The SS doesn’t weight nearly as much as a car or truck....they used a hollow pipe from the factory....the upgraded sway bars are twice as thick as the factory bar....so why the need for a solid bar? Does The SS really need that much more bar...
and that is the question. we know the twist bar is stiffer and that it is solid, but is 650 lbs/in too stiff for the slingshot? just because it is at this time the stiffest doesnt tell us much. The people who have installed it seem to love it, would they like a stiffer sway bar even more?
this is why I would really like to talk to someone who has tried both, but I am beginning to think that wont happen, people who have the Alpha or the DDM seem to love them and have no desire to try the Twist and the people I have talked to who bought the Twist seem to love it and have no desire to go softer.
and that leaves me right where I started when it comes to making this choice - Which means I will probably go with other features and price as the deciding factor
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There were stats posted for the bars somewhere of the amount of pounds each different holes would give you. I can’t find anything.... but maybe you could get that much out of one of the other hollow bars.. or at least pretty close...
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There were stats posted for the bars somewhere of the amount of pounds each different holes would give you. I can’t find anything.... but maybe you could get that much out of one of the other hollow bars.. or at least pretty close...
numbers for each hole of the DDM and Twist are easy - they are on the sites that sell them. I would like to know what the 4 holes in the Alpha bar would have been, especially th inner most as it is possible that would have been as stiff or stiffer than the Twist
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I would like to find those myself since I have the alpha.
I did see a calculation for adding to the outside diameter of a sway bar. Nothing for adding to the inside thickness. Which is what we have.
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I would like to find those myself since I have the alpha.
I did see a calculation for adding to the outside diameter of a sway bar. Nothing for adding to the inside thickness. Which is what we have.
Assuming can often get a person in trouble, but in this case lets. If the first two settings on the alpha bar are approximately the same as the DDM bar, roughly 460 and 570 LBS/in and we have two more settings going stiffer on the alpha - if each hole gives roughly an equal increase in lbs/in in this case in excess of 100 lbs each the implication would be that the inner 2 settings could be 680 and 790 lbs
if this is even close to being correct then both of the inner settings on the alpha bar could easily be stiffer then the Twist's rating of 650 lbs
It sure would be nice if the people making these would specify what type of usage they are designed for - something like street, track & street, track only - - - -
I really like the fact that the DDM is adjustable, and that design of the Alpha with 4 options seems like it was a great concept giving buyers what could be a very full range of adjustment. I think what makes me nervous about just getting the Twist is that it has no adjust-ability - it is the stiffest and there is no setting it to the softer setting like on the DDM
At one point I talked to Dave from DDM about the two settings on the DDM bar he didnt specifically address what type of usage the two settings were designed for, but he did say the inner setting is more geared for modified setups - I took this to mean higher performance slingshots that would be hitting the corners harder than one would normally expect a person with a stock Slingshot.
in the end, unless I learn more that changes my mind, I have decided that the DDM with its 2 settings and built in stops is the safest choice - I know the 460 LBS/in setting will be a good improvement over stock and I feel comfortable that it is not too much for daily driving. If after I try it I want more I can move it to the inner setting and have it. On the off chance that after that I still want more I guess I will have to sell the DDM and move to the Twist
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That said I have my alpha on the second hole and I’m thinking about going to number 3. And then there is no telling if it might be too much. And if there actually is a point of too much...
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The reason there can't be a definite answer is because it depends on the Slingshot. The force the bar can have an effect on the suspension depends on the weight of the wheel and tires, shocks installed, spring rate of the shocks, weight of the riders in the Sling, etc.....If you change any of those, it will have an effect on the away bar. A heavier weighted wheel/tire will take a different pressure to keep it contact with the ground.
As for the single rear wheel compared to four wheels. If that is a concern then run a smaller rim (18ish) with a taller sidewall. With the pressure run lower, the side wall will have flex so the foot print stay flat. A bigger wheel with a thinner sidewall has to be at a higher pressure. This make for a stiffer side wall. Look at a sling with a 305 30 20 and you will notice the edge of the tire is scuffed. This is caused when the sling corners hard and rolls up on the edge. At this point you are losing traction.
The DDM sway bar was designed around what we drive.
The Alpha's extra holes were for their endlink that was supposed to be L shaped. The fact Henry never release it would lead me to believe it was not worth it. He promised it for over a year. I have an Alpha on one and a DDM on the other. I dont believe you will notice the difference between the 3 swaybars unless you are on track with everything dialed in. -
That said I have my alpha on the second hole and I’m thinking about going to number 3. And then there is no telling if it might be too much. And if there actually is a point of too much...
perhaps since you have the alpha you could try it on the inner two settings and then go out and put some miles on it and come back and share you what you learn with us - - having those stiffer options with the Alpha bar is probably as close as there is to an adjustable bar that might be as stiff or even stiffer than the Twist so it would be nice to know what you think
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perhaps since you have the alpha you could try it on the inner two settings and then go out and put some miles on it and come back and share you what you learn with us - - having those stiffer options with the Alpha bar is probably as close as there is to an adjustable bar that might be as stiff or even stiffer than the Twist so it would be nice to know what you think
I dont believe you can connect to them without an offset link. The tie rod is in the way. I tried it when I put it on.
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I dont believe you can connect to them without an offset link. The tie rod is in the way. I tried it when I put it on.
well he said he was thinking about trying the third setting so I guess he thinks he can - as a side note looking at the picture it looks like you could move the link to the front side of the a-arm and go in front of the tie rod instead of behind it.
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well he said he was thinking about trying the third setting so I guess he thinks he can - as a side note looking at the picture it looks like you could move the link to the front side of the a-arm and go in front of the tie rod instead of behind it.
Just trying to help you out with what I have actually tried.
The location of the holes change in relationship to the sway bar when the wheels are turned, it is not static.
It will not work on the forward two holes without an offset.
The picture are with the wheels turned full left to full right.
For the money, the DDM is the better bar because of the installed stops.Give
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The reason there can't be a definite answer is because it depends on the Slingshot. The force the bar can have an effect on the suspension depends on the weight of the wheel and tires, shocks installed, spring rate of the shocks, weight of the riders in the Sling, etc.....If you change any of those, it will have an effect on the away bar. A heavier weighted wheel/tire will take a different pressure to keep it contact with the ground.
As for the single rear wheel compared to four wheels. If that is a concern then run a smaller rim (18ish) with a taller sidewall. With the pressure run lower, the side wall will have flex so the foot print stay flat. A bigger wheel with a thinner sidewall has to be at a higher pressure. This make for a stiffer side wall. Look at a sling with a 305 30 20 and you will notice the edge of the tire is scuffed. This is caused when the sling corners hard and rolls up on the edge. At this point you are losing traction.
The DDM sway bar was designed around what we drive.
The Alpha's extra holes were for their endlink that was supposed to be L shaped. The fact Henry never release it would lead me to believe it was not worth it. He promised it for over a year. I have an Alpha on one and a DDM on the other. I dont believe you will notice the difference between the 3 swaybars unless you are on track with everything dialed in.ding...ding...ding
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Just trying to help you out with what I have actually tried.The location of the holes change in relationship to the sway bar when the wheels are turned, it is not static.
It will not work on the forward two holes without an offset.
The picture are with the wheels turned full left to full right.
For the money, the DDM is the better bar because of the installed stops.To get the perfect fit, without any sway bar tension, you really want to use adjustable end links. Alpha's adjustable end links were really nice and worked well, but were never fully released. When utilizing all 4 holes, you do move the endlink from back to front. For the 2 softer settings, you keep it in the stock rear placement. For the 2 stiffer settings, you switch the endlink to the other side so it is in the front. In this way, it doesn't bind as shown in the above pictures.
Sway bars are great, but the majority of people (especially if you don't get to the track) won't feel the stiffness difference from running them on the softest setting compared to the stiffest setting. I have ran the Alpha sway bar with their endlinks on every setting while on the track and on the street. Setting up your shocks correctly and picking the proper tire/tire pressure make a much bigger differences than the sway bar setting.
Don't complicate it. Pick what you like and Sling away. -
To get the perfect fit, without any sway bar tension, you really want to use adjustable end links. Alpha's adjustable end links were really nice and worked well, but were never fully released. When utilizing all 4 holes, you do move the endlink from back to front. For the 2 softer settings, you keep it in the stock rear placement. For the 2 stiffer settings, you switch the endlink to the other side so it is in the front. In this way, it doesn't bind as shown in the above pictures.
Sway bars are great, but the majority of people (especially if you don't get to the track) won't feel the stiffness difference from running them on the softest setting compared to the stiffest setting. I have ran the Alpha sway bar with their endlinks on every setting while on the track and on the street. Setting up your shocks correctly and picking the proper tire/tire pressure make a much bigger differences than the sway bar setting.Don't complicate it. Pick what you like and Sling away.
Hey @TravAZ thank you so much for chiming in - with your experience your input is greatly appreciated
so with you saying "the majority of people (especially if you don't get to the track) won't feel the stiffness difference from running them on the softest setting compared to the stiffest" do you think there is really any point in me even upgrading from stock? I will most likely never track the sling and the closest I will ever get is having fun on winding mountain roads. Its not a huge amount of money, but if I wont feel much difference then I would rather spend it on something else? I do love the difference the JRI Grand touring coil overs made and perhaps that is all I need. what do you think?
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@edwardaneal I'll chime in and state that if I were you I would by the aftermarket swaybar mount and upgraded bushings first. I don't think anyone will disagree that this is an improvement regardless of what else you choose to do.
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You can feel the difference, but does the difference matter...? that is up to you my friend. On the track it is easy to determine, because you can look at how lap times are effected. On the street, it is all about getting the feel you like and being able to outrun your buddies in the curves.
If you want one, go for it. It is just money.
I liked mine, but I didn't see seconds being dropped off of my lap times. The Slingshot just lacks too much rear traction to be pushed really hard where you might see a dramatic improvement. On the street, it felt better to me than stock and allowed me to run my shocks closer to 40 on softness, instead of 25.
