Fed ex didnt use torn, used cartons. Cartons were compromised and handling made it worse
Sent from my SM-G935V using Polaris Slingshot Forum mobile app
Huh
Sent from my SM-G955U using Polaris Slingshot Forum mobile app
Tires...what are you running?
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@SlingRider - How is the 345mm tire on the back? Any issues? Do you have stock shocks? I'd rally like to go with as wide as I can go, but worried after spending all that it won't fit. Did you go with a 20x12 rim with +45 offset?
Thanks!@SaltyClownNY looks like lots answered your question, but wanted to reply. Sorry for the delay I was in Eureka springs.
I have a 20 x 12 rim with 45 offset so it is perfect center. I have the 345/25/20 and it clears the stock and the QA1 shocks.
I lost some traction, but for the most part I love them!!
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Jim,
How did you lose traction with the larger rear tire?
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@Andy Hatch I suck at explaining the physics of it, but in lamens terms the much smaller side wall causes the tire to spin easier.
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@Andy Hatch I suck at explaining the physics of it, but in lamens terms the much smaller side wall causes the tire to spin easier.
I was hoping by going to a 345 I would have increased traction...
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I was hoping by going to a 345 I would have increased traction...
Michelin Pilot SS 345/30/20. Problem solved.
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I understand the small sidewall principle to a point just as large sidewall wrinkle wall slicks work best but the compound in those Michelin SS seem to contradict said principle. Less life, more traction-what's not to like?
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OK, so I've been paying attention... I think. Maybe @WrongWheelDrive and I can share some info. Some Notes:
I understand that by decreasing the sidewall the tire becomes stiffer. @Tango likes the PilotSS tires, but it's not a symmetrical or directional tread (which is fine, but most recommend symmetrical or directional treads). It's interesting to see what everyone's preferences are.
I started with the end goal of having as much horsepower and focusing on the 1/4 mile times and what would be the best wheel width and tire for doing that. I'm a lot closer to answering this. I like the 345 look, but if I end up throwing a lot of HP at it and looking at 1/4 mile times, what is the best tire/rim sizes? Anyone out there have specific tests with numbers? Most seem to be running the 345mm on a 20x12 wheel, but there are differences. The other part of this is the front and everyone seems to be all over the place as far as sizes.
@WraithSS... you have the larger wheels and drive the 315mm rear. Ever have an issue? I would think that your tires are not symmetrical or directional treads as there are very limited tires to choose from with a 22 inch wheel in the back. Also, thoughts on the front for steering as you went from the 225mm stocks on the front to 275mm... you said you had no issues with tracking I think. I wonder if there is a "too wide" point where handling becomes negatively impacted.
@TravAZ changes his tires to go to the track and street... you would be a good one to ask as you run a 305mm rear on the track any 345mm on the street. I can only assume it makes a difference? No? Maybe you just don't want to burn up your 345mm. You also switches to a wider tire on the front (255mm) for the track on the 235mm for street. I'm sure tires themselves make a huge difference, but what are your thoughts?
Any vendors out there want to chime in? Does it all come down to personal preference? There are so many variables in this, but interesting just the same.
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OK, so I've been paying attention... I think. Maybe @WrongWheelDrive and I can share some info. Some Notes:
I understand that by decreasing the sidewall the tire becomes stiffer. @Tango likes the PilotSS tires, but it's not a symmetrical or directional tread (which is fine, but most recommend symmetrical or directional treads). It's interesting to see what everyone's preferences are.
I started with the end goal of having as much horsepower and focusing on the 1/4 mile times and what would be the best wheel width and tire for doing that. I'm a lot closer to answering this. I like the 345 look, but if I end up throwing a lot of HP at it and looking at 1/4 mile times, what is the best tire/rim sizes? Anyone out there have specific tests with numbers? Most seem to be running the 345mm on a 20x12 wheel, but there are differences. The other part of this is the front and everyone seems to be all over the place as far as sizes.
@WraithSS... you have the larger wheels and drive the 315mm rear. Ever have an issue? I would think that your tires are not symmetrical or directional treads as there are very limited tires to choose from with a 22 inch wheel in the back. Also, thoughts on the font for steering as you went from the 225mm stocks on the front to 275mm... you said you had no issues with tracking I think. I wonder if there is a "too wide" point where handling becomes negatively impacted.
@TravAZ changes his tires to go to the track and street... you would be a good one to ask as you run a 305mm rear on the track any 345mm on the street. I can only assume it makes a difference? No? Maybe you just don't want to burn up your 345mm. You also switches to a wider tire on the front (255mm) for the track on the 235mm for street. I'm sure tires themselves make a huge difference, but what are your thoughts?
Any vendors out there want to chime in? Does it all come down to personal preference? There are so many variables in this, but interesting just the same.
Correct, I am running the Pirelli P Zero Nero GT all the way around. It is their max performance summer tire and is asymmetric. Here is a pic of the tread pattern to give you an idea:
The only issue I have had is an issue any high performance summer tire would, when it's cold the tire loses some traction. As for the front end handling I have done a lot of upgrades to the suspension as well that have made the slingshot handle remarkably well. RRR strut bar, rebound and height adjustable air suspension, DDM sway bar, DDM sway bar mounts, and DDM end links. -
I think another factor is the wider the tire the more the weight of the SS is spread out on it. Where the cut off is of how wide before you begin to have not enough weight on the tire who knows.
Until you take the same SS, on the same day, and change tires out and measure the results I think its all up for debate.
I personally like the look of a 345 rear and going in that direction.
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@TravAZ changes his tires to go to the track and street... you would be a good one to ask as you run a 305mm rear on the track any 345mm on the street. I can only assume it makes a difference? No? Maybe you just don't want to burn up your 345mm. You also switches to a wider tire on the front (255mm) for the track on the 235mm for street. I'm sure tires themselves make a huge difference, but what are your thoughts?
Let me clarify some of this below...
My track tire is a smaller 305 size only because that is the largest tire available in a R888 that fits on my 12 inch track rim. I didn't want to run the 335 R888r on the rear, because it is a crazy asymmetric tread pattern. It would not have worked good for me and it looked/measured as if the 335 R888r wouldn't even fit because of the shock. They were shipped wrong, so they were sent back.
My street tire is a skinnier 235mm only because that is what I have ran forever and was purchased on my first street wheel/tire combo to ensure that the rolling diameter worked. If I did it over, as I mentioned, I would go wider on the front like my track setup.
Here is the deal... If you want to be "fast" on the track (drag, autocross, road-course) you need to have dedicated wheels and tires for whatever you are doing. You will NEVER put down really good 1/4 times without having a 17-18 inch wheel with a bigger sidewall drag tire. Tire compound also makes a really big difference. My track temp 305 R888 will always be way stickier than my 345 Toyo T1R. I wear through these track tires in around 100-200 miles at track days. So, you can see why I choose to run two different wheel and tire combos.
Maybe for what you want, you would be happy with just one set and run something in between street drive-ability and 1/4 times. Below is a combo that would do decent at both things...
Rear: Nitto NT05R - P315/40R18 - Fits 10.5-12.5 inch rim
Fronts: Nitto NT05 - 275/40ZR18 - Fits 9-11 inch rim -
Generally speaking, wider tires mean more traction, but the relatively light weight of the Slingshot's rear end tends to act against the increase in width, reducing traction. If the main focus is on acceleration in the 1/4 Mile, the Slingshot is compromised by the relatively light loading on the rear tire. As tire width grows, the lbs/sq in of contact patch goes down, essentially limiting traction. Figuring out a way to increase the rear tire loading to increase the lbs/sq in of contact patch might allow you to make better use of a wider tire. Starting in 2nd gear might also reduce any tendency to spin the rear tire on take-off. You'll probably accelerate a little more slowly, but you may also reduce your overall time by reducing tire spin.
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Generally speaking, wider tires mean more traction, but the relatively light weight of the Slingshot's rear tire tends to act against the increase in width, reducing traction. If the main focus is on acceleration in the 1/4 Mile, the Slingshot is compromised by the relatively light loading on the rear tire. As tire width grows, the lbs/sq in of contact patch goes down, essentially limiting traction. Figuring out a way to increase the rear tire loading to increase the lbs/sq in of contact patch might allow you to make better use of a wider tire. Starting in 2nd gear might also reduce any tendency to spin the rear tire on take-off. You'll probably accelerate a little more slowly, but you may also reduce your overall time by reducing tire spin.
So you are saying as the tire goes wider, so do I to allow for more weight on the rear LOL... -
I would guess if 1/4 mile racing is what you are after, there are a few things you could do. I'm thinking along the lines of "the racing is the most important" here. I'd go with an 18" rear (if not a 15"), off a stock base unit or an aftermarket with a wider rim. Then I'd get a street legal drag tire, or even just a soft compound racing slick, but make it big enough in size to make up the difference to the 20" rim. That way, you have more sidewall, and it can grip better for a launch. The other thing I would do is get adjustable shocks. I have the QA1's, in two way. I'd set the front at 4, and the rear at 0-2. That way, when you launch, the weight will shift to the rear. With a low setting in the rear, under power the machine will squat more, giving you more traction.
Then again, if all you want is 1/4 times, I'd say you bought the wrong machine.
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I would guess if 1/4 mile racing is what you are after, there are a few things you could do. I'm thinking along the lines of "the racing is the most important" here. I'd go with an 18" rear (if not a 15"), off a stock base unit or an aftermarket with a wider rim. Then I'd get a street legal drag tire, or even just a soft compound racing slick, but make it big enough in size to make up the difference to the 20" rim. That way, you have more sidewall, and it can grip better for a launch. The other thing I would do is get adjustable shocks. I have the QA1's, in two way. I'd set the front at 4, and the rear at 0-2. That way, when you launch, the weight will shift to the rear. With a low setting in the rear, under power the machine will squat more, giving you more traction.
Then again, if all you want is 1/4 times, I'd say you bought the wrong machine.
It's all good. I love the Slingshot. I just also like the speed. May as well try and maximize it.
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As I have posted before, I run a 295 45 18 on a stock rear wheel. The side wall makes the tire about 2 inches taller than a 305 30 20. The width is about 2 inch narrower than the 305. I can run it at 20 psi to get good launch ti.es if I desire straight line. At 25 psi I still get great traction in the turns because the flex actually allows the tire to stay planted in the turns and not roll up on the edge like the 305 does.
I have been running this configuration for 6 months now.
There is not a problem with any of the safety items, TC, ABS, Stability.
This wheel tire configuration is lighter.
The increased circumference raises the gearing making 1st more usable.
Any one who I have ridden with will tell you how it corners.The -
When Justina and I took our SlingShot in for the recall work the dealer had an SLR on the floor. As we each worked down a side inspecting and commenting on this and that when we reached the rear and saw that tire, we looked up at each other and said "Fat Broad, (of BC fame), at the same time!
True story!
Bill
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Display MoreAs I have posted before, I run a 295 45 18 on a stock rear wheel. The side wall makes the tire about 2 inches taller than a 305 30 20. The width is about 2 inch narrower than the 305. I can run it at 20 psi to get good launch ti.es if I desire straight line. At 25 psi I still get great traction in the turns because the flex actually allows the tire to stay planted in the turns and not roll up on the edge like the 305 does.
I have been running this configuration for 6 months now.
There is not a problem with any of the safety items, TC, ABS, Stability.
This wheel tire configuration is lighter.
The increased circumference raises the gearing making 1st more usable.
Any one who I have ridden with will tell you how it corners.TheHave you ever ridden in the twistys?
