Have any pictures of your ass end
Oh, this oughta be good... 
Tires...what are you running?
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I chose not to go bigger and wider on the rear tire because from my experience running a 305 30 20 had less traction than a 285 35 18. I believe their is a point having a wider tire spreads the contact area psi of the tire to thin.
Fully agree. Total down force remains the same, but spread over how much area of contact? That has to come into play. I have struggled with this because I really like the look of the wider tire in back. The stock tire size is what I went back to, but with a General G-Max AS-03. I was a little disappointed at the look, as it has rounded edges compared to the Kenda, and looked even more narrow at a glance. Actual tire width at contact is only about 5/16ths narrower, because of the rolled corner. But it handles better, wears better, and by far tracks better in the rain. I ride a lot of miles and that is worth more to me than looks. I've had my SS since May of last year, but put it up for the winter for a few months last winter. I've only had it out for 14 months of riding season, and at least 3 of those were rather iffy so didn't get much riding time. Just under 26,000 miles on it now.
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@KayTwo, @sideseatdriver
I think your plan is solid on the 20 x 12, just make sure the tire you select provides tge grip you desire. Travis will have the best information on that setup.
I chose not to go bigger and wider on the rear tire because from my experience running a 305 30 20 had less traction than a 285 35 18. I believe their is a point having a wider tire spreads the contact area psi of the tire to thin. With the light weight of the slings back end, we are limited to the psi already. At what point the wider tire' s contact area starts to degrade traction is the unknown.I would assume these were two different brands/models of tires...? Were the tread patterns, temperature ratings, and wear pattern ratings very similar?
If they weren't super close in the above categories, it probably isn't fair to compare old vs new.
I also doubt you would see less traction from a 345/25/20 compared to a 315/25/20 or 305/25/20. With more contact patch, you have more ability for the tire to grab pavement.
Though, it is important to remember that bigger tires will wander more with road imperfections and be less effective in standing water.
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Personally, I'm all over the place. I really like the Ridetech Shcokwave air shocks, but not sure if it's not better to have the ability to adjust and fine tune my shocks more granularly. I just really like the ability to raise and lower the sling with he air shocks for even just simple things like speed bumps. I wonder how the raising and lowering and how it impacts the tension on the rear belt though and if you lower it, how that impacts the alignment.
Key is everything I'm trying to do is pushing forward for a Turbo or SC upgrade which I want all these other items done before that happens. Shocks, tires, some cosmetic changes to make it nicer on the inside... mods to steering... want that all out of the way first.
@rabtech, @MACAWS, @SlingRider, any opinions on the shocks with a higher horsepower machine (or anyone else with over 300HP... sorry, I only know a few for sure)? What about the rear tire and wider v/ narrower?
My issue is that the stock 255mm tire gets squirrely on me all the time. I can fish tail the thing going out of a parking lot real easy and I have a stock engine. I can chirp the tire real easy going to 2nd and 3rd. I know I have a lead foot, but I worry increasing the HP to over 525HP so I can compete with @rabtech (
) is never going to happen unless I can get a grip on my ass end. And yes, I know some of it comes down to knowing HOW to drive, but in my case with a stock engine, the 255mm tire just sucks. -
Display MoreI would assume these were two different brands/models of tires...? Were the tread patterns, temperature ratings, and wear pattern ratings very similar?
If they weren't super close in the above categories, it probably isn't fair to compare old vs new.I also doubt you would see less traction from a 345/25/20 compared to a 315/25/20 or 305/25/20. With more contact patch, you have more ability for the tire to grab pavement.
Though, it is important to remember that bigger tires will wander more with road imperfections and be less effective in standing water.
Both setups had Nitro 555 tires.
This is from my own experience running the same roads within the same week at the same temp.
The 20s with the 305 that I purchased for my sling are now on my wife's sling and the 18s are on mine for that very reason.
We both have QA1s with Sway Bars as well, the slings are set up the same. -
OK. the 20x12 has a 345/35/20 toyo proxie TR1. Might need a new one at some point but has tread left. It gripped great for me.
It is centered with. +45 offset. I will ship it with a hub centric ring for you to use.
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OK. the 20x12 has a 345/35/20 toyo proxie TR1. Might need a new one at some point but has tread left. It gripped great for me.
It is centered with. +45 offset. I will ship it with a hub centric ring for you to use.
How much horsepower are you putting on it?
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OK. the 20x12 has a 345/35/20 toyo proxie TR1. Might need a new one at some point but has tread left. It gripped great for me.
It is centered with. +45 offset. I will ship it with a hub centric ring for you to use.
*Happy Dance*
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OK. the 20x12 has a 345/35/20 toyo proxie TR1. Might need a new one at some point but has tread left. It gripped great for me.
It is centered with. +45 offset. I will ship it with a hub centric ring for you to use.
These wheels look very good in person. You know they have gently massaged by Jim since they were new.
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We need a Sling Tire Day where we have all the different sizes set up and we just try them all LOL.
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We need a Sling Tire Day where we have all the different sizes set up and we just try them all LOL.
I volunteer @rabtech 's sling!
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OK. the 20x12 has a 345/35/20 toyo proxie TR1. Might need a new one at some point but has tread left. It gripped great for me.
It is centered with. +45 offset. I will ship it with a hub centric ring for you to use.
*Happy Dance*
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Anyone try the RidetechShockwaves with a 345? I'm guessing it won't fit, but not sure how close it is. Only one I know running them is @WraithSS, but he's got a 315 on the back. @WraithSS, how wide are those shocks in comparison to the stock? Do the bags interfere with he tire clearance what so ever? Have any pictures of your ass end
Here is a pic of the 315 on a 22" rim:
The part of the cylinder that could come in contact with the tire is right at 2.90" according to the trusty digital caliper. Im not sure how that compares to the stock spring. Anyone got that measurement?
The adjustable suspension has held for over 7k miles now and has saved my ass more than a few times. I'm pushing over 300hp to the rear wheel with the 95mm pulley upgrade for DDMs supercharger. Anymore questions feel free to ask. -
Here is a pic of the 315 on a 22" rim:
The part of the cylinder that could come in contact with the tire is right at 2.90" according to the trusty digital caliper. Im not sure how that compares to the stock spring. Anyone got that measurement?
The adjustable suspension has held for over 7k miles now and has saved my ass more than a few times. I'm pushing over 300hp to the rear wheel with the 95mm pulley upgrade for DDMs supercharger. Anymore questions feel free to ask.My math isn't working out but sounds like the tire would hit the support arm before it hits the shock. SlingMods is carrying RevDynamics now and they are saying it's smaller than the stock shock, so should fit. My main concern was the rubber boot impacting it, but looks like it's well above the tire and even if lowered wouldn't hit. Was worried that going with a 345 may hit it, but sounds like it would be fine. Thanks! I love this group LOL!
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@Bill Martin - I know this isn't the "wheel" thread, but they do fit in a bit. I think you said you had 3 part forged rims. Do you have any pictures and what size/type wheels and tires you have? I'm looking at the 3 part wheels myself... anyone else have some images and tire sizes? How much horsepower you pushing them with?
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@Bill Martin - I know this isn't the "wheel" thread, but they do fit in a bit. I think you said you had 3 part forged rims. Do you have any pictures and what size/type wheels and tires you have? I'm looking at the 3 part wheels myself... anyone else have some images and tire sizes? How much horsepower you pushing them with?
Asanti wheels - can get you a pic if you need it
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My issue is that the stock 255mm tire gets squirrely on me all the time. I can fish tail the thing going out of a parking lot real easy and I have a stock engine. I can chirp the tire real easy going to 2nd and 3rd. I know I have a lead foot, but I worry increasing the HP to over 525HP so I can compete with @rabtech ( ) is never going to happen unless I can get a grip on my ass end. And yes, I know some of it comes down to knowing HOW to drive, but in my case with a stock engine, the 255mm tire just sucks.
I've used two different Mickey Thompson rear tires -- a Sportsman SR and a ET Street R. The Sportsman SR is 26x12R18 mounted on an Enkei PF01 and the ET Street R is a P325/35R18 mounted on a 12" wide ForgeStar. The MT Sportsman had a bit more grip -- less squirmy and greasy feeling than the stock Kendas. These didn't make any squealing noises. With a Supercharger, the MT Sportsmans could easily be spun. But, the ET Street R has WAY WAAAYYY more grip run at 15 PSI. I've got a hard time breaking it loose with a Supercharger just using the gas pedal.
A long time back, I did some calculations as to the available traction vs. HP -- and how much tractive force you could get out of a single tire with the weight and balance of a Slingshot. The basic problem, is that the Slingshot is a forward weight biased reverse trike with a low CG. That low CG results in poor weight transfer under acelleration. Anyway, I've attached the old calculations below:
All of the above calculations were for a standard ultra high performance road tire (CF of 1.0). An R compound drag tire will up the coefficient of friction to 1.3 or maybe 1.4 -- which means you can get over 1200 lbs of tractive force to the ground. This added traction could take most of the added torque from a turbo or S/C in 2nd gear on up.
This mostly about straight line acceleration. With just one rear wheel, you can't use negative wheel camber or other tricks to help with lateral acelleration in corners. But, having a nice pliable rear tire with a lot of contact surface area and narrow sidewalls helps in the twisty bits. I find that I can accelerate out of corners with the ET Street R's -- something I couldn't do with my other rear tires. Of course, hard acelleration out of a corner is something a reverse trike probably shouldn't do -- as it can rock back on a tilt axis. Similarly, a regular trike shouldn't brake hard going into a corner as it can rock forward on a tilt axis. Sidecar motorcycles have to be very careful about any braking while turning left as they have asymmetric tilt axes... Thankfully, I haven't lifted a front wheel yet. I have no idea what ESC will do if that happens...
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Asanti wheels - can get you a pic if you need it
Absolutely! Do you have exposed fasteners? Would be nice to see what they look like. I keep second guessing if I want the 3 part and can definitely find non-forged rims cheeper, but I don't think I'll like them more. Problem is, I can't find anyone in my area that has a touches tire mounter and not many want to risk scratching the rim when mounting the tires.
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So I see most people swear by the Nitto 555 g2. But I wonder if the bias is because we're coming from Kenda's and the Nitto seems to be the cheapest decent option.
I've got the SLR rims with the 305/30/20 rear tire. I see Nitto 555 g2 or Toyo Proxies T1R as the next logical step up. But take budget out of the decision making process...and I was looking for street use with decent wet traction for 3 season use...and only (stay with me now) symmetrical; are the 400-600 dollar tires I see on Tire Rack and Discount Tire really worth double (or more!) the cost?Discuss.
Show all work.
