Electrical question - rotary switch for headlights?

    This is probably going to be a dumb question, but I know there are some wicked smart electrical types in the group, so hopefully I can get some help.


    I want to be able to run my six headlights and six halos in a few different combinations. I was thinking that if I had some kind of barrel switch with 4-6 positions, would it be possible to wire the lights such that each position had a different combination? Or, is there another (easier/smarter) way to make those combinations possible, aside from wiring six different toggle switches, one for each pair of headlights or halos?

    @KayTwo, yes, a rotary switch would work, as long as it was weather-proof. Any switch will work as long as it has same number of positions as the different combinations you wanted. For example, my switch is wired for "off - halos (full power) - headlights & halos (half power)" so the halos will dim when the headlights are on. I could also wire fog lights to the "off" position but then I would always have something turned on because it would now be wired as "fog lights - halos (full power) - headlights & halos (half power)" Since the power to the halos runs on two different circuits, I could just as easily wire the half power halo circuit in with the fogs so the halos would always be on, just dimmer when the headlights or fogs were on.


    The downside to a rotary switch is that you have to go through each position between the current position and the desired position and power is interrupted with each click of the knob. If you have HIDs installed, each time you interrupt the power to the HIDs it will trigger the HID ignitor which could shorten the life of the bulbs and possibly the ballasts. Just something to consider.


    If you already know the combinations you want, post them here and we can work out the best order of progression and a rough schematic for you. :thumbup:


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    Quote from Gadgeteer

    @KayTwo, yes, a rotary switch would work, as long as it was weather-proof. Any switch will work as long as it has same number of positions as the different combinations you wanted. For example, my switch is wired for "off - halos (full power) - headlights & halos (half power)" so the halos will dim when the headlights are on. I could also wire fog lights to the "off" position but then I would always have something turned on because it would now be wired as "fog lights - halos (full power) - headlights & halos (half power)" Since the power to the halos runs on two different circuits, I could just as easily wire the half power halo circuit in with the fogs so the halos would always be on, just dimmer when the headlights or fogs were on.


    The downside to a rotary switch is that you have to go through each position between the current position and the desired position and power is interrupted with each click of the knob. If you have HIDs installed, each time you interrupt the power to the HIDs it will trigger the HID ignitor which could shorten the life of the bulbs and possibly the ballasts. Just something to consider.


    If you already know the combinations you want, post them here and we can work out the best order of progression and a rough schematic for you. :thumbup:

    Two very good points: weather proofing, and the interrupted power flow spikes which are the enemy of things electrical.


    That said, the standard switchgear on Slingshot is not all of the variety we would strictly consider weatherproof. Fortunately, analog on-off switches are pretty robust items, and while weather will certainly have an effect on them over time, mostly via moisture (and subsequent corrosion), they're fairly resistant. As the "business" end of a rotary switch would be behind the dash, it may still prove to be reasonably durable.


    I'd add that one way to overcome the potentially troublesome "spiking" which Gadgeteer insightfully mentions above - would be to add a master on/off switch which controls the power feed to the rotary switch. Just choose the function you wish with the master switch off, and then power up. An additional advantage to this approach is that you'd now turn the lights off via the master, which would enable you to retain your favorite selection on the rotary switch.

    It's probably worth repeating - the spiking is only an issue with HIDs because of the excess ignition triggering will wear things out faster. No real harm, just shorter life span and only if you're switching frequently.


    I can think of plenty of strategies that will minimize wear on HIDs (assuming you have them - many of us do) but I don't want to confuse with options until we know what you're working with. Please let us know what you have installed and how you'd like them to function and I'm sure we can work it out. :thumbsup:


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    @KayTwo a barrel switch with that many combos and waterproof is going to cost. A more effective solution would be to add a simple on off switch to each circuit that you want to control. Then you decide whats illuminated by pushing that button or throwing that toggle.
    I rebuilt my dash to incorporate a marine radio and 14 pushbutton switches. Each item that I want to control has its own switch. If I want halo's and heads - 2 buttons. Halos only 1 button.

    Barrel switches have a certain amount of charge injection, so a little more finesse may be required in a real implementation. A series resistor to the gate would slow the switching edges a bit, but in @KayTwos case, a capacitor from the output may be required in the end.

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    Quote from KayTwo

    @ericastar76, @Roy658.....Whaaaaa? ?(


    Roy, got your first comment loud and clear. Issue is, I would need three toggle for the heads and 3 for the halos, to do what I really want. Not sure I want to use up that real estate.


    Then again, "it ain't always what you want you get the most of." :P

    LOL, it's simple... Some op-amps take longer than others to recover from saturation, all you need to do is regulate that recovery to the inverting input ~> AND PRESTO (longer life HID's)! :D

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    @Gadgeteer:


    I have the LEDs on all 6 headlights, no switches or additional controls, and the 6 halos are wired through the aux fuse box, with a remote, no switches.


    The fog light circuit is already in use, with its own independent switch, and will not be part of this equation.


    My goal, if possible, is to have preset combos of lights/halos illuminated together.



    Now that I look at this, I wonder if @Roy658 's idea isn't just better....just put each of the 6 pairs (A, B, C, 1, 2, 3) from the diagram above on their own single throw switch, so I can literally do what I want in a given OCD mood.


    The thing I like about the rotary switch idea is that it takes up way less real estate. What do you guys think?

    Quote from Roy658

    BTW the 16mm pushbuttons cost about $7 rach from amazon or as little aa 2.50 direct from china. Just make sure you get latching or maintained contact.


    Quote from Roy658

    @'KayTwo have a few xtras left from bulk order that your welcome to no cost. No further use for the switches. Pix shows what I have. Black toggle is not waterproof. All other take a 16mm mount hole (5/8").

    Roy658, those pushbuttons are cool. Am I seeing correctly that they light up when energized?