Can't stop... Won't stop!!
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We need @Tripod to find an image of a Hindu Cow reading between the lines...
@Tripod It'll be easy... you know... like when you search the web for "THE FASTEST"~> how TURBO SILVER immediately pops up. Type in "THE CHILLEST BOVINE" ~> and you'll find a Hindu Cow, rolling in a TURBO SILVER sling, reading the paper, with a pipe hanging out its mouth, and wearing a monocle...
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Display More@rabtech. The exact word from the Polaris rep was "your highly modified SS voids your extended factory warranty ". I am trying to get them to fix the fried Jcase.
They can't say why it is void. Just that it is.
I agree it is bull and I spent a long time explaining to the Polaris guy that nothing they have said would stand up in court. He finally agreed to reopen my claim.
If your issue is small they will fix it. Fried Jcase requires a complete replacement of the main chassis wiring harness. We are in the $1000 of dollars
Jcase is under $35 there should be a way to swap it ....
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They can't they won't they never will stop the party
lol.
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will this do?Welcome back, Phil!
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Welcome back, Phil!
I know... Just shows back up without any explanation.... Big dog.
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The major problem with all the mods and I'm into thousands already. You never get your money back when you sell. Lucky to get even half. But we do what makes us happy. I'm trying to slow down I really don't want to start engine mods. I'll keep the hood closed
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"I'll keep the hood closed"
Famous last words of which I had spoken at one time!
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The major problem with all the mods and I'm into thousands already. You never get your money back when you sell. Lucky to get even half. But we do what makes us happy. I'm trying to slow down I really don't want to start engine mods. I'll keep the hood closed
It's only paper... besides, who buys a slingshot as an investment?
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Jcase is under $35 there should be a way to swap it ....
@Bigdog thenssie is splicing in the new jcase. But if it is a failure point why put one back.
If the continuity is fine on all three then replacing with inline fuses and bypassing the Jcase may be better
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Having not see the backside of a jcase. You said splicing it in. So it's not a plug and unplug item? It's wired in as an intricate part of the harness?
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Wow. That sucks... I hope that works...were you able to buy the plug part? Solder all the connections...someone mentioned using inline fuses in place of the jcase....are those things fuses or breakers...and would it make a difference?
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@SlingRider, if the connector pins are not melted in and can be slipped out, you might be able to get away with replacing just the connector (Metri-pack 150 series) without having to cut the wires.
The bigger question is why did it melt in the first place? I can understand why the factory/dealer would want to replace the entire harness because the wiring could be comprimised elsewhere. I'm assuming you've made some electrical mods (battery, lighting, etc.) so I can see how that would void any warranty claims for this problem. Blowing a high amp fuse and melting the connector is definitely cause for concern. Simply fixing the part that failed may not be the end of your woes.
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Currently looking to add the following 4 items to my sling:
> Rear wing (mounted to the frame ~> not roll bars)
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I would recommend caution when deck or frame mounting a wing. I know the plastic deck is too thin to support the wing so surface mounting is not really an option. The steel frame ends at the roll hoops and everything behind it is supported by an aluminum subframe that is not made to handle excessive loads. I don't know how much downforce the wing will actually develop but using some VERY rough calculations, here are some estimates: assuming a 48x8 wing with a 5 degree angle of attack will generate approx. 295 lbs. of downforce at 70 mph. At 80 mph, that jumps to approx. 380 lbs. and at 90 mph, it jumps to approx. 485 lbs. The roll hoops could handle that kind of load, but I'm not sure I would trust the aluminum subframe. If you're deadset on a frame mount, I would recommend you reach out to @RichArlt (creator of the Wycked Hitch) about a custom mount that attaches to the frame similar to his hitch design. I'm sure he'd be happy to try rigging something up for you. -
I would recommend caution when deck or frame mounting a wing. I know the plastic deck is too thin to support the wing so surface mounting is not really an option. The steel frame ends at the roll hoops and everything behind it is supported by an aluminum subframe that is not made to handle excessive loads. I don't know how much downforce the wing will actually develop but using some VERY rough calculations, here are some estimates: assuming a 48x8 wing with a 5 degree angle of attack will generate approx. 295 lbs. of downforce at 70 mph. At 80 mph, that jumps to approx. 380 lbs. and at 90 mph, it jumps to approx. 485 lbs. The roll hoops could handle that kind of load, but I'm not sure I would trust the aluminum subframe. If you're deadset on a frame mount, I would recommend you reach out to @RichArlt (creator of the Wycked Hitch) about a custom mount that attaches to the frame similar to his hitch design. I'm sure he'd be happy to try rigging something up for you.
You can mount it to the sub frame below the deck - Mine has been mounted for 16K miles not an issue
But then again I don't drive fast enough to create downforce -
So the clamps have enough spring force to not work loose?!
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So the clamps have enough spring force to not work loose?!
Well played @Tripod... well played!
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So the clamps have enough spring force to not work loose?!
